Ridge_Runner

As-builts are a totally different animal from new construction; you can't control anything with the build - it is what it is. Every one of them varies so it is hard to answer your question directly. My guess, based on what you have shown (with the history) is no, that is not necessarily too much time. I am also "a bit perfectionist" so I can certainly relate.

Thanks, Edward. I had already read your thread about the 2080Ti cards failing. I could wait a little longer to purchase but I am running an old rig and it just won't keep up with all of the improvements in CA over the years. I am going to multiple monitors also to help with my productivity and that would tax my old system even more. I will check the Threadripper and see how it compares.

I am looking to order a new desktop in the next few days. I went back and looked at previous threads but not much useful info on the new nVidia 2000 series cards as far as CA goes. I am looking at probably a GTX 1070 Ti or maybe a RTX 2070. Both have 8GB of memory. The 2070 is about $50 more over the 1070 Ti. Another approx. $380 to go to a RTX 2080. Any of you running one of the new cards yet? If so, any input would be appreciated. It is difficult to decide if they will be much of an improvement over say a 1080. The new unit I am looking at (Digital Storm) doesn't even offer a 1080 in the list for some reason. Trying to plan ahead as I don't upgrade but every 5-years or so. In addition, would an I9-9900K be worth an additional $160 over an I7-9700K? I've been out of the loop on the processors for a long time. Like so many of you, I want mainly stability and the best bang for the buck. I do have the folks at Digital Storm overclock both the video card and the cpu within the limits of stability. Thanks in advance.

Looking good, Rob.

I think you are right; my bad. Would work if you could also set the top width and/or the pitch to match roof with the dogear option.

You should be able to get it by setting the width and height (if you know them or can fudge them). Some trial and error until you get it to match.

You can also set window to fixed glass and use dogear option under arch.

Can't pick your link for the picture. It appears to be broken.

You can also go to ACME's website and download their Masonry Designer. I have used it for several years. It allows you to pick any of their available brick and create your own material. You can change the mortar color, the type of pattern (running bond, etc.) you want and save to create a new material [in] Chief. Works great. They are seamless and tile perfectly.

But no cigar?

I do both. I sometimes do a type of "hybrid" for some details. If I have a plan that is not too large in size I may copy the details from my warehouse plan into a CAD detail in the current plan I'm working on and send to layout from there (keeps the size of the backups down) ; I guess that's a carryover from the old way. But the plans I do that are larger I will just send the details from the warehouse plan to layout. I always do a full backup from Layout; that way any warehouse plans are backed up along with the main plan.

I have tried to convince the GC and rock hangers this will work; they just don't buy it. To leave out screws at those locations is foolishness to them.

This is the way I currently do it. I think Joe Carrick and others put me on to this some time back.

I live in the Southeast and most of our houses around here use rafters. The builders here are very slow to accept newer (better, maybe?) methods. They hold on to the old, "we've always done it that way so why change?" mantra religiously. Trusses also got a bad rap here from contractors/framers several years ago because of the tendency to "uplift" in the middle when loaded up; our area still hasn't overcome that bad press. Can't tell you how many complaints I've heard about ugly joints at the top of walls, especially those with crown molding. But until we can get Pinterest to stop showing great, vaulted ceilings and spaces from million dollar homes, and convincing homeowners they can have it in a 2,000 sq.ft. home, I will have to use framing. I also lay blame on framers with nailguns (apologies to those good framers on here); they like stitching 2x's with nails and trusses are just a different animal.

Nice video, Steve. I always appreciate your time in making these instructional videos.

I agree; this is an area that doesn't sometimes get enough detail. Do it right the first time or you will regret it very quickly.

Last one I did I was able to drain it out over the lower, front roof section. I used a membrane roof system sloped to drain (I don't like the scuppers). Used "duck boards" under removable deck flooring panels; make sure you add the recommended double thickness membrane under the bottom of the duck boards (sleepers) to protect the main membrane. If you are building in a cold climate the center drainage system will give you problems. Some have resorted to providing a heat source just to keep the drain lines working when the temp is below freezing. A reminder of one hard fact: the deck area must be kept clean, especially from the buildup of leaves and other debris. No system will drain as designed unless the drainage path is kept clear. With finished space below this type of inset deck it is even more of a problem/headache. There are those who say this type of deck is great if done right and maintained. My question is, "did you ever see one?"

Nice, Johnny. Are the 3D plants and trees from Lumion? Good presentation style. I like your choice of "less is more" for the foundation plantings. So many want to sow "plastic" flowers everywhere to the point it looks like a nursery instead of a home.

I quit annotating in Layout years ago for this very reason. There are some benefits to this approach but it is just too finicky.

Doug, if you do a search you should find examples of what others have done. I seem to remember several comments on the subject on this forum.

It has always been "hit or miss" with me. Sometimes it works, sometimes not, for some reason which I have not been able to find yet.

If you will do a search on this forum this has been discussed before. There were several posts and methods discussed. David's and Mark's work also. I think (dangerous thing to do sometimes) Joe Carrick used a type of component approach, but I'm not sure.

Not with Michael's suggestion. Follow his instructions and try it. It is an "orthographic" view.

I usually place them manually unless I just need a quick view. I find I have much better control that way and can customize the newels and location to whatever I want.

The older I get, the more realistic this becomes, unfortunately.