DBCooper

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Everything posted by DBCooper

  1. Schedules will group things based on the info shown in the schedule. So my guess is that the info on the row for your drawer base matches the info for your regular base cabinet. You need to add a column or some other info that makes the rows different, such as the standard label.
  2. You could let the program build the second floor for all 3 and then just marquee select the second floor walls for the other 2 and delete them. Should be much easier than manually drawing and aligning the walls for just the one. If you want to copy/paste a building from a different plan, you can use the "edit area all floors" tool instead of just selecting objects from one floor and copying them. If you used export DXF and the scaling was off when you imported it, then you must have messed up something. Normally, the export and import of either 2D or 3D DXF defaults to the same scale it was drawn in and this shouldn't be a problem. Another way of handling a subdivision is to have 3 separate plans with each of the individual buildings and then have one master plan that uses the reference display tools to display the m altogether. More info about using 3D symbols for subdivisions can be found here: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00344/modeling-a-subdivision-or-lot-with-multiple-structures.html More info about using reference display can be found here: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00475/using-the-reference-display.html
  3. A good way to solve these kinds of problems is to use the ALDO or the "object layer properties". If you have the ALDO open and you select an object it will show you the layers being used and all of their settings for the current view. If you click on the "object layer properties" in the edit toolbar, it will do the same thing.
  4. For this kind of thing, it usually best to attach a plan to your post. There is a limit on how big the file can be so you will probably need to "zip" the plan to make it small enough to attach. You may even need to delete stuff that doesn't have anything to do with the problem as well. Make sure the plan is closed when you try to zip it and attach it otherwise it won't work.
  5. You might be able to get what you want with a pony wall. Make your tall wall a pony wall with the upper and lower types set to be the same. Set the plan view to display the lower pony wall only. In your pony wall defaults, set it to hide openings in the non-displayed parts of walls. In effect, the height of your pony wall will be the plan view cutting plane.
  6. You could try changing the "stacking" level to 1 and suppressing the label. This might make them look good enough with a lot less work.
  7. I think you can do that stair with the landings, as many and whatever shape you like as long as they are connected properly, and still use automatic heights. A lot less work and no math required. What you can't do (for some reason) is make an auto stairwell when your stair has a landing on top. In cases like this, I just manually draw my railings on the floor above, with the reference display turned on, and then make the room an open below room. That should solve your room molding problem. On a side note, anytime you have room molding issues, another solution is to just convert the room molding into a molding polyline using the "make room molding polyline" tool and then edit as needed. You can add breaks where needed and turn the molding on/off for any edge.
  8. 1. Still don't know what is causing this. My guess is it has something to do with the room that gets selected when you click on it in a camera view. Maybe take a look at the floor/ceiling heights or the structure settings. I am surprised someone else hasn't posted a solution yet either. 2. Sounds like you added a break in a plan view. Try adding the break while in an elevation view instead.
  9. Open your deck room and go to the structure page. Click on the "edit" button for the "planks, joists". Your joists should be marked as "framing" and they are using a material that has been painted white. Just checking the "framing" button will make the deck build normally although your framing will still be white. Not sure if this happened as an accident while using the material spray can or not. I noticed that you have a bunch of painted and duplicate materials in your plan materials. Not sure how you got into this state but you could merge all of your duplicate materials and solve some of the confusion. As for painting materials, if you pay attention to the toolbar and status bar when you are painting it will tell you if you are "blending" (which creates a new material) or painting (which replaces the current material). It will also tell you what you are actually putting the material on which should help you avoid painting the wrong things. Or, you could avoid the material spray can and just change the material through the dialogs which is more work but less likely to paint the wrong things. I didn't really look at anything else but I did notice that the interior stair doesn't look like it has enough room at the bottom.
  10. The basic problem shown in your video is that you can't move the circle with the 285 dimension because it isn't actually locating the circle. You can tell this because when you select the circle, the dimension doesn't change color. Also, when you hover over the dimension, you don't get the "finger" so that when you click on the dimension, the program just selects the dimension instead of letting you do the move. When you import a dxf/dwg, the dimensions don't always locate the objects you want them to. I didn't look at your plan, but it looks like the program put in a cad marker for the dimension instead of connecting it to the circle center the way you wanted. If you selected the marker (by using "next' or tab), you could then move the marker using the 285 dimension. BTW, you may have never realized this, but which temp dimensions you get will usually depend on which side of an object you click on. For example, in your video your temp dimensions are showing the top/bottom distances which means that you probably clicked closer to the top or bottom then to the left or right side.
  11. No, but there is a built-in column for "shutter type" and another one for "shutter sides" that may be close enough to what you need. Since "shutter type" will report the name of the library symbol, you could create a symbol for your shutter called "Yes". You might even be able to create another library symbol called "No" that doesn't have any 3D if you really need to show both the yes/no in the schedule. Other than that, you could probably do it using a custom column and macro.
  12. 1. Not sure what that is. Probably should post the plan and someone will be able to figure it out. 2. Sounds like you need to add a "break" to the wall. While in an elevation view looking at the wall, you can add a break point along the top or bottom and then drag the wall up or down and it should only move the one part. This tech article might help: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01809/creating-a-stepped-foundation.html Or this video: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/402/stepping-a-foundation.html?playlist=88
  13. You can't put cad blocks in schedules. You can create a new electrical symbol that uses the cad block and put that into a schedule. If you don't care about the 3D, just copy an existing light and change the cad block to the one you want. If you want both to look right, then you will need to make or import a 3D model of the light fixture you want. Here is a pretty generic tech article about making new symbols: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00809/converting-an-object-into-a-symbol.html Here is one about customizing a light symbol: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01057/customizing-a-light-fixture.html
  14. It's really hard to say "what you are doing wrong" unless you explain exactly what you are actually doing. Are you using the material spray can or are you using the "rainbow" tool? For example, if you are using the material spray can, you may be accidently changing the material on your deck planks by clicking on the wrong thing. If you are using the "rainbow" tool to adjust a material, the program will change that material for everything in the program that is using it. In any case, you should be able to open up the deck room to see what materials are being used for the deck planks and change it through the dialog instead of rebuilding anything. There are a lot of other things that could be happening as well. Might be best for you to post the plan so that people can see if they are getting the same results. If you want to post your plan, you may need to zip it up and even remove things to make the plan small enough to post. Also, be sure and create the zip when the plan is not open in Chief otherwise it won't work right. And it's also a good idea to let people know what version of the program you are using.
  15. It is possible to create a round window by making it a round top arch and then using the "reflect vertically" option. You could make them smaller than 6" by editing them in an elevation view. Turning off the casing, sash, sill, and frame will look ok dead on but you will only get a glass surface in the middle of the wall instead of on both sides. Another thing that might work better would be to create an electrical light symbol that just sits on the wall surface. Would be similar to a flush mount light that sits on the ceiling. You could make them various sizes and colors and they would look like they were letting light through when turned on. The part that would be a pain is having one on the inside and a matching one on the outside and keeping them lined up. Might be able to create a light fixture that is actually embedded in the wall by modifying the 3D origin.
  16. Chief has a bonus library called "wine cellar items" that has some.
  17. Your room outside of the stairwell is also marked as an "open below" room type. That is why you don't see a floor.
  18. I just tried a simple case and it worked fine for me. Could be something silly like your objects are too far from the origin or your edges are on off angles. Try posting your plan and someone can look into it.
  19. The "user catalog" will not appear in the "default settings" dialog box (the one you open when you click on the toolbar button that looks like a "wrench"). The default settings dialog will show you all of the defaults and settings that are saved in a particular plan. It should appear in the "library browser" though (the one you open when you click on the toolbar button that looks like "books"). The library browser shows you all of the catalogs of objects and other things that are available to all plans.
  20. Either you are doing something wrong or there is something wrong in your plan. When you put the dishwasher in the base cabinet, the label should change from "b24" to something like "dishwasher". I can see both labels in your picture above which I think means your dishwasher is free standing and not actually in the cabinet. Did you get a message saying something about "the symbol you are trying to place is supposed to go into a cabinet"? When you get this message, it means that you are placing it as a free standing symbol which is why the 2d and 3d don't match. If you can't get it to work, you might want to post the plan.
  21. If those are from the core libraries, you can put the appliances into the cabinet instead of as free standing symbols. If you place them as free standing symbols, you will need to change the symbol origin to get the 2d and 3d to match.
  22. I didn't realize those were actual doors. You could use a symbol for your metal doors. Symbol doors can have different materials from the parametric ones.
  23. You might be able to get close by changing the separation into a slab door panel instead. I made my doors inset with 0" clearance and it looked pretty good except the mapping started over at each piece.
  24. D. It is what it is. As far as I can tell, positive Y is always on the right side of the wall going from start to end and positive X is always away from the wall start. If you make sure that the start and end indicators are turned on in preferences, this is more obvious. This is why Rene's suggestion of reversing the wall can help. The good thing about this rule is that it works for all door and window types, whether they are hinged or not. I think I would prefer it if instead of X and Y they called it "distance along wall" and "distance from wall" though. X and Y seem pretty ambiguous.
  25. You could set the left and right side to "none" but then you would have to place the side partitions manually. Probably a bunch of ways to build this unit and I don't think there is any one in particular that is going to be much better than the others.