Kbird1

Now you tell me where you been all afternoon why a reduced gable isn't also and end I don't know....

I see now we have a Regional difference in how things are done ....saw it as soon as I opened your plan , we don't use end trusses here the Reduced gable truss is just that , and has no vertical webs and we just sheet over the Webs. As soon as you change the Reduced gable truss to be an END TRUSS the wall framing disappears... DOH ! and the lookouts connect properly..... apologies Curt....I assumed the Reduced gable would also be auto "End" since that is the only place to use one I am aware of ???? damn...sorry again for wasting your time. Mick.

it's something simple you are doing I am not ..... let me look at your plan.... thanks ALOT on this appreciate it. no wall framing yet , only 1/2 trusses in Frame the wall and

Room Dividers are invisible which is why you have no wall above the roof of the Garden Room , just run the exterior wall all the way thru with the Lower wall if butting Roof section set to interior wall 6 ( or whatever you want). This KB article should help you figure out what walls to break and the setting in each http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-01020/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Creating-Multiple-Shed-Roofs.html edit. : here's a pic that should help... Wall roof settings shown are FG=Full Gable, Hi = Hi Shed , clg= ceiling height

I did check that Curt and it is ON , but perhaps I need to try a new plan , as my Practice plan maybe as confused as me , with all this checking and rebuilding framing etc. *** no same in new plan , so I think I am missing something , not you I either get the full gable wall or with the stop at ceiling setting on the wall, one the same height as the "raise above plate" measurement same as before . I thought perhaps like the Roof rafters the Gable Framing would be auto eliminated if a truss was placed there.

Oops.....sorry Which Star Wars character do I feel like .... , I didn't think anyone was taking those seriously. M

Thx Joe , always appreciate you posting these Macros for those of us who are Ruby Challenged. M.

If doing As-Builts it can be helpful to set your Dimension defaults to Locate Surfaces instead of the wall Dimension Layer , you can also alter the default wall's definition ( or make a copy) so it dimensions to the exterior or interior surface instead of the Main Layer. CA defaults to the outside of the main Layer not the Center of the wall ,which you can see in Robert's pic and in any wall's definition> "dimension to this line setting"

Thanks Bill , Got it now just needed to visualize what you were saying while looking at an elevation. other tips for further Readers... Make sure Trusses is checked in the Build Roof DBX and Until you build all your trusses you will have a small wall showing in elevation due to the 10" raise ( 6/12+ 24" overhang) and CA assuming Rafters till you MultiCopy the rest of your trusses , (see pic below) it then disappears after a rebuilt. Another question ....What is the correct placement of the reduced height gable Truss on a gable wall to Auto eliminate the Gable wall framing? I would assume behind the sheathing but I can't seem to find the sweet spot even with a framing rebuilt. thx.

So if you play with the Top and Bottom Chord spacing you still don't get the vertical over the wall on the 40" trusses?, M

Took me a while to notice the tape locking on "something" other than what I was clicking on too, just got to remember to toggle it back on.

I would say your dims are setup wrong cos it works for me , are you using ' &" and have your smallest fraction etc set? all good? do you have Grid Snaps on and they are set to 1" , I find I need to turn them off for the Tape measure to work well. or are you just in the wrong annotation set ? eg Plot Plan

Thx Curt, it is the Canted part I have issues with , energy heel etc works as expected, but checking the manual about this it mentioned editing the trusses manually if needed, so that was what I thought you had done , but there is no setting in the Raise/Lower box in your Plan so I wasn't sure. I assume you used Transform Replicate to raise all roof planes the req'd distance then ? I think it's a bit strange Canted isn't an option since "Canted" truss's are pretty Common. @Bill , thx....but I will need to play with a cross section so I can "compute" your information too " The cantilever and vertical strut at the wall top plate will generate if the heel height is adjusted so that the bottom most tip of the top chord, and bottom of the bottom chord are at approximately the same height." Thx Guys, M.

ahhhhh, I didn't figure that out from your posts...hence two part answer but Larry looks as confused as me about what you said and what your pics show.

do a "save as" of your plan and make a copy and delete out anything we don't need to look at like fixtures and furniture etc. M.

Hi Curt , was hoping you would see this post , you seem to have trusses figured out , did you edit the truss in elevation to get the Cantilever shape or are those "Auto" trusses , and I am missing a setting or two somewhere. Thx. M.

Post 1: AFAIK Max Separation = Max Span but I have not used this often as not common here but you are talking about two different things here , Posts under Beams and Foundations using grade beams and Piers. Post 2: The Top of the Post Footing defaults to the Setting in the Post Defaults in the Building Framing DBX and the default is usually (Zero) 0" above Floor though the setting can also be negative if needed , if there is no "floor" I think it defaults to the top of the Footing , so to raise it up just put a + value in the height above floor box for Post Footings. M.

I find I am in and out of here often depending on what I am doing and what I need "located" note that if you draw a manual Dim. you won't get a Temp. Dim in the same location or nearby , it has been suggested to change this behaviour to always on BTW. M.

The Student program also Watermarks everything I believe , not sure if it has other limitation as the Trial version Does.

I decided to try the S3+ Pen too , ordered it yest. (on Points) rather than the Pro which felt a little to large/weighty for tablet use, which I think will be it's primary use since I have my Desktop + 3 monitor setup, but am hoping to use it Onsite, for Measures etc too and possibly output to TV if needed at Client's, won't be quick but should be useable I hope. M.

For Concept Work I would think you could use HD Pro for most of it , then if you go to Construction Phase you could always upgrade to Chief then, the $500 for Pro is refunded /rebated against the Chief Upgrade purchase so you would lose nothing.

the cheap software way ,might work for this too since you don't like Scott's "extra floor " method. http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00878/

I was just reading about this yesterday , there is some info on pages 396-397 on how door window/combos are treated in "Displaying Mulled Units".

When you select the Bay , do it by clicking ON the window you want to modify, then hit Tab and the selection should shift to the window itself , then you can open it to alter it's size , casings etc etc as normal. M.

that was my thought too though I can't see it but that looks like the spot the gable would start up so need to be broken ,btw that small roof plane appears to be badly formed (double lines).