Kbird1

Looks like Eric reshaped the bottom of the Attic Wall for you.... If you don't need to show Framing you can also take a back-clipped Cross section >CAD from View > reshape the Wall Polyline as needed, then Copy it > Paste / hold position, it back into the back clipped cross-section, convert to a polyline solid, and make it 3 1/2" thick and the material drywall. In plan view you may need to slide it back to your curved ceiling edge. PS you don't need the invisible wall , below is the Poly-solid way...

they also call it a Cape Cod and there is a tutorial on how to do it... you can save the PDF under the Tools Menu if you want.... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00772/building-a-cape-cod-roof-by-adjusting-ceiling-heights.html

If you have always worked with them off , you may have clicked the toggle icon on the RH Toolbar for Grid Snaps ( cross hatch with red circle dot ) Having them off is like working with the Ctrl Key always presses during a drag .... ie Ctrl over-rides the Grid snaps temporarily

You're welcome , just make sure nothing is selected in Plan when you hit delete , you can also click , then hit space (to un-select) then Delete too. M.

I was playing around with what Joe said above for my own knowledge , and then went back to Plan View thinking it would be easier to renumber them in Plan View and that was when I noticed after selecting a Window that we have the Move up or Down Schedule buttons on the Edit Toolbar..... not sure why I haven't noticed them before , but it should make things easier to number things in a Clockwise Fashion ( how my window guy does it) I think....

Use the beam tool and just drag them wall to wall. Setup your Beam default sizes 1st under build framing. Once drawn you can move them up and down as needed either in 3D or elevation. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00457/creating-a-beam.html 3:25 into this video shows the process..... but worth watching it all I'd say... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/329/drawing-exposed-sloped-and-decorative-beams.html?playlist=147

X9 Plan...... MHD_Try_X9_Exposed Rafters.plan

Not possible..... that's why we ask for Signatures to be done.....which I see you now have done....

Your Plan seems to have a number of issues including the Roof not building over the main section of the Laundry , no time to dive into that now , so here is a quick Plan with the Settings and Materials done to look at..... Check the saved cameras 1st. M. MHD_Troy_Exposed Rafters Plan.plan

Clicking a blank area in the Plan and hitting delete will also remove them.... might want to check the Preference hasn't been enabled (checked) if they are appearing by themselves too....

Does the Auto Roof not give you what you need? as Eric shows it seems to work okay in the supplied plan for me too , but I guess I am missing something? The wall settings are wrong in the supplied plan for a shed roof BTW...

The ML will only give you square feet of wall surface area but as long as you can calculate the rest it will work by adding a 0" layers to your wall definition outside the Drywall , eg a layer of Primer Paint and 2 layers of the Chosen Colour. the Sqft. will show up in the Wallboard section of the ML. It might get a bit much if every room was a different colour as the ML only reports exactly what is modeled but you can add the extra layers to your default Wall definitions so most of it it automatic. You can actually do the same thing in the Ceiling Finish definition I believe. I don't personally do this , so maybe others will chime in and say if it is a good Idea or not.... M.

Assuming you need a false drop ceiling again to cover the insulation and services ? ( ie more info is better as mentioned ) try a 0° Ceiling Plane and some Beams to generate the framing and Planks , and make the Framing white by mixing (Blend) white with the Framing Texture in the material Properties.

Deleting the Ceiling Finish for the "Room" would be a start ...but as Michael said , the more details you provide the better answer you will receive...... ie it's time well spent.... Also, it's good to have your Forum Signature filled in, especially with the Software Version, and of course a real Name is nice too ..............see mine below in Blue for how to do that. If you don't see my Signature then you have them turned off for the Forum so you need to Toggle it on in UserName>Account >Signatures...... go to the Upper RH Corner of Forum Window. M.

this came up in one of Scott's recent posts too , the stairs don't like cutting through walls , so some manually fix-up seems to be in order....

Are they all joined properly?

In another post he mentioned he was modelling an old existing building I think ... not this one

Bottom plates are turned off in the build wall framing dbx , so they are there , and I don't see rim joists either , not sure if that is accurate or a mistake though. Looks like you moved the 2nd floor top plates up instead of copying them in place and then moving the copy up ? so make a copy and pull the top plate back into place... Many of the top floor ceiling joists are doubled up but I am not sure if that is accurate , though the secondary ones don't reach the outer Walls. You can use the General Framing Tool to make many Custom Framing members Or You can use a CAD detail to make Framing Members and then place them back into plan and elevations views to turn them into Solids and manipulate them further , have a look at this Video of a Custom Trellis build where they use this method to make the trellis parts , the framing part starts about minute 12.00. https://youtu.be/tONcWPb8Mxs Edit....forgot pics.....

I normally Auto Build and let it get as close as it can then uncheck Autobuild and fix anything manually I need too , these two Videos may help you , learning the Roof Join Tool is imperative to Manual roof planes as it greatly enhances you speed.... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/25/drawing-roofs-manually.html?playlist=95 https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/724/joining-roof-planes.html?playlist=95 two others that will help at time too... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/728/locating-roof-plane-intersections.html?playlist=95 https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/706/roof-baseline-polylines.html?playlist=95 one to practice with... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/726/manually-roofing-an-l-shaped-house-with-gable-ends.html?playlist=95

I think if you set black and White to Greyscale instead , then you can use different colours which will print as different shades of Grey instead , at least I think this is how some of the other Forum User like Perry and Joey Martin do it , hopefully they will see this and give you more in-depth advice.... M. @joey_martin @PerryPlansPro

do you mean the Pattern file for Vector Views? CADHatch has a Free Excel file you can download to make many standard Pattern Files as well as some textures etc. http://www.cadhatch.com/hatch-pattern-generator/4588167700 http://www.cadhatch.com/seamless-textures/4588167680 If you mean Standard View or PBR then the Texture must be Brick Patterned (a seamless texture). M.

If it is usually on a 2nd monitor you can try the Reset Side Windows in Preferences to bring it up within the Program Window again.... Also, it's good to have your Forum Signature filled in, especially with the Software Version, and of course a real Name is nice too ..............see mine below in Blue for how to do that. If you don't see my Signature then you have them turned off for the Forum so you need to Toggle it on in UserName>Account >Signatures...... go to the Upper RH Corner of Forum Window. M.

Interesting Gene , I had not seen those before but I do have a Shipping Container Symbol from here somewhere so try this one or alter the Original that's included too. M. MHD_Shipping Container and SC Pool.calibz

Nice Robert..... I have not come across the "Special Polyline" before....

I find it is often just the viwing angle causing it , rotate the model 10-15° and they are gone ....but not always.... In Active Layer Display Options (ALDO) , i usually have it enable and on a 2nd monitor so I can easily click layers on and off or lock them etc. You haven't done your signature , so no idea what version you have , so I can't tell you how to access it.... I also found it older versions this effect was worse if I started with an Orthographic camera compared to a Perspective Camera M.