Kbird1

Back at Version 9 they may have been Serial Port not USB , but Serial Port to USB adapters are available , I'm just not sure if the Hasp will work with a Converter? Your new computer may have a Serial Port ? Mine does , (also known as a Com Port) , but not all modern computer do , but there are also Serial port add-in cards available which may work. M.

Thanks Mark , guess I missed this last year , thought it was next month at 1st , do you still have the files from the Workshop , so I can follow along? thanks, M.

Chief normally stores all the User Files in the Chief Data Folder which it usually keeps in My Documents, if you are worried about it being on your Server I wouldn't be keeping my Data Folder on OneDrive either. Keep it local and back it up to OneDrive instead. M.

Double check Auto regeneration Of the Deck framing is still on and change the Material to the one you want under the Deck's "floor structure" ( not floor finish.) M,

Ok , I didn't realise Pro didn't import DWG , that is why Eric recommended you ask on HomeTalk as people there will know what your Version is capable of. It looked like a whole neighbourhood to me but there was only elevation Data for part of it , so I was thinking you could delete what wasn't needed and resave, (Draftsight also does DXF in multiple Versions,) but it looks like Glenn was kind enough to play with it for you , so you may not need to bother now. M.

I'd suggest posting the Plan or at least a Test plan of Your Conditions , so people can have a "play" and perhaps work something out. M.

Try opening it in a free CAD Program like DraftSight Free and delete everything you dont need then save it as a DWG instead and import into Chief or Pro

This may help other Users in the future too....

If like me you like to keep the Post off the Wall ( so moisture isn't trapped and it can be repainted over the years) you can also break the railing wall and reverse the short part to stop them joining again and then position the end of the long section, the width of the newel (post) off the house, though it works for 3.5" posts, you just can't much close or you'll lose the short wall. PS. nice tip on the T-Shape Room Divider Eric , I was just using one in the past...... M.

You can convert Old Libraries (.alb files) directly if you have it still , under Library use the Convert Legacy Menu Item M.

True , it won't remain "Live" and Update, so you need to do a new one if there are changes made , but at the Point I am sending to Layout I am usually done with the Design Side of things , so there aren't many changes...I mostly use this for things like Typical CAD Details which also don't change often, being able to Rotate on 11x17 or 12x18 pages helps in some cases I have found. If you do a CAD Detail From View of the Elevation or Cross Section , then send that CAD Detail to Layout it is just CAD Lines and can be Rotated unlike a Live View , as noted above I mostly do this with Typical Details , so I can Clean them up in CAD before sending to Layout , so I tried it with a CS and Elevation and it works for those Views too. M.

You can rotate Plan Views I am not 100% sure about Sections or Elevations though ( no?) ..... BUT send a CS or Elevation to a CAD Detail 1st and you can..... M.

Like Steve , I decided to take the Rough design Cues from your Plan Allan and try a few things in my Own , it was possible to do it on one Level, but after noticing alot of weird Attic walls building Automatically in your Plan and having to delete many that weren't needed , I turned off Auto Attic Wall Build ( Alt-Q ) and manually built/drew walls as needed. Another thing that would really help these buildings with Parapet Walls would be if we had a Setting similar to Floors to hang the Roof Structure on the Wall ( like the floor Platform Check box) as I found time and again a Roof Plane destroyed the wall structure when pulled a smidge too close , this is made harder in some cases as you cannot always "see" the truse thickness of the Walls you are trying to Snap too as Like Steve I also made 4-5 new walltypes to use in different areas , ie Block with stucco both, block with drywall both , drywall on one and Stucco on one etc. Many of the same Issues though Alan so I don't think all the Issues you are having are yours to be honest. Railings still remove the Soffit on Overhanging Roofs for example and alot of use of the Wall intersections Tool to fix wall layer/join issues. M. Test_ModernStyle_Commercial.plan

I found exactly the same thing , it was continuous it seems , it's takes a fair bit to keep track of all the different elevations in a Plan and which wall should join to which....this is really something Chief is going to have to work on for future versions I think , especially with more and more Modern Contemporary Homes are wanted /built and their move to Support Light Commercial Structures which are also tending to follow the same Design cues these days. I had a bad crash ( Blue Screen) while working in Chief yesterday to Clean up the plan before attaching it to my Post above , not sure if Chief was the Cause to be honest but it's been some time since I had a BSOD , so I didn't want to attach the plan just in case it was corrupt but all seems well today so here it is: Test_060619_MHD.plan M.

Some but not all of the Issues are due to the fact you have turned off Invisible Walls in 3D views , same issue as here : https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/22755-gable-wall-not-building/?do=findComment&comment=185222 You also have multiple different wall types for seemingly the same thing but their thickness' especially outside the main layer are different eg some are 7/8 and others only 3/8" and the 2x6 wall has the OSB in the Main layer too and framing is only 5", this all makes aligning walls in the same plane much more difficult, and not easy to see unless you zoom in while in 2D but can usually be seen in 3D views, making you think you have more of an issue than you do. In other cases you ( or perhaps mark?) have just pulled the wrong wall around the wrong corner etc to get them to join properly , also seems to be a lot of needed play with the wall intersection tool to get the right layers joining at the right point. Also because you are using Railing like above the front entrance , you need to turn the railing off momentarily and pull the bottom of the wall down an 1 or two and then turn the railing back on , this seemed to let the wall over the entry rebuilt properly without the Walls from the Room (white) flashing/sticking through the Stucco in that area. PS front entry and Vending Area Ceilings were turned off. Why the Raililngs are cutting a hole in the soffit above...I didn't go after......

It is possible to create your Own Inserts with CAD Lines , though if I remember correctly from previous Posts it only works on Chief's own Doors and Windows , not Imported models or ones from some of the Manufacturer's libraries, not sure if that changed in X11 as I haven't tried it. Chief refers to it as Custom Muntins , there is a tutorial here : https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00930/creating-custom-muntins.html

Usually done in section views but there are Roof Caps and Drains in the Library too. The Trusses don't slope usually , the slope is added with pre-sloped Rigid Foam which is protected with Protection Board and then the 2-3 layers of Asphalt Roofing or some other Roof membrane depending on the system used in your Locale. In the past they also used lightweight concrete to create the slope to drain too but this is not worth the time to do in Chief really when it can be done in the CAD Details with Notes and a few CAD Lines. Try looking online for a free CAD Detail from a Manufacturer of Roof Materials for example and you may not even have to draw that. M.

In a Floor you need to Use Floor Trusses not Roof Trusses , they seem to be working okay for me so you may need to explain further what the issue is.... semi detached_Floor Trusses_MHD.plan

If your "Roof" is really the Floor from a second Level use a Floor Truss not a Roof Truss , making sure the second Floor structure is set to the correct Depth 1st. M.

Serial numbers are also in your Chief Account under Digital Locker. M.

As Larry pointed out you really should do as many defaults for the Structure for the existing building before you even start Drawing or just after ( after drawing the 1st rect. box) especially in this case as it is not a standard build perse, with those extension Walls. There maybe a better way to do those ie as very small rooms, rather than solid walls , so that Chief builds the walls automatically....it may not work any better than what I did last night though? I would setup the Correct Size on Level One , if auto Foundations is one it should correct the foundation for you ( made sure Defaults are set 1st) then go up level 2 and Realign the Walls to below as needed , then on the Attic level too at each end perhaps? The Wall Alignment tool only works when you are mis-aligned by less than (about) 1/2 the Walls' width, otherwise it assumes it is deliberate and doesn't give you that Option , so you will need to move the walls close to alignment (using reference layer) then you will see the Alignment Tool if it didn't snap to the reference Layer as you moved it. Forgot to mention last night you had pulled the roof planes through the Brick walls on one end, (essentially breaking the inner brick layer) , they in this case must be snapped to the inner surface of the End walls, so the two NS walls can build up past them. This is also why Robert's method works as Walls WILL grow up on their own , if default wall top is on in the Structure tab, looking for a Roof Plan to Build too. M.

There were a number of issues Bob , most of the walls were misaligned over the 3 floors and the roof planes were skewed but that is fixed and I made the "extensions" out of a 16" brick wall with block core. ( real world?) I made a change to your new wall type ( no osb which was in the main layer) and deleted a few walls which seemed to be "extras" on one side of the house. Either end is done differently , one end uses Roof planes ( per Robert) the Other doesn't , I used my old method of editting the Walls in Elevation and adding Solids to the top of the walls as Caps , also done in Elevation then moved in Plan View as needed, so you can see the two methods. Move those walls again and you are on your own M. Orphanos Foundation Renovations_MHD.plan

I think you should as the wall alignment should have nothing to do with the Roof pitch generated * As a side note I switched all 3 walls in the good roof plan to DECK Railings ( interior used ) and set the roof Pitch to 4 and it immediately built correctly too... With some weirdness caused by the misalignment of the walls...

How did you get on Bob? I wanted to to try Robert's Roof plane Method as in the past I had just edited the walls in elevation after pulling the Roof planes back to the inner surface of the Gable End walls and then using a Solid or Slab to cap the Walls. The H Shape of the walls isn't something CA expects and it was a bit more work than I thought it should be fixing some wall anomalies in Elevation and 3D views but if you build the house as a rectangle as normal , then open the Gable walls and lock the center , then add say 32" ?, that will give you a 16" projection each side.....I did that each end, starting with the foundation and working my way up , not sure if working down would be better? Adding CAD center-lines through the house makes it fairly easy to use COPY>Reflect about Object to copy roof planes and Slabs to the other end of the house once you have the 1st one/side done. Here is my Play Plan so you can have a look .....Gable End Walls above Roofline.plan

You probably have the Layer with the symbol turned off in your 3D Camera Layerset I think it is on Fixtures, Exterior, but select it in 2D plan View and check it's layer assignment and then make sure that layer is turned on in the 3D camera View too. ( I have colour turned off in 3D View below ready to send to the CAD DETAIL)