Kbird1

As Larry pointed out you really should do as many defaults for the Structure for the existing building before you even start Drawing or just after ( after drawing the 1st rect. box) especially in this case as it is not a standard build perse, with those extension Walls. There maybe a better way to do those ie as very small rooms, rather than solid walls , so that Chief builds the walls automatically....it may not work any better than what I did last night though? I would setup the Correct Size on Level One , if auto Foundations is one it should correct the foundation for you ( made sure Defaults are set 1st) then go up level 2 and Realign the Walls to below as needed , then on the Attic level too at each end perhaps? The Wall Alignment tool only works when you are mis-aligned by less than (about) 1/2 the Walls' width, otherwise it assumes it is deliberate and doesn't give you that Option , so you will need to move the walls close to alignment (using reference layer) then you will see the Alignment Tool if it didn't snap to the reference Layer as you moved it. Forgot to mention last night you had pulled the roof planes through the Brick walls on one end, (essentially breaking the inner brick layer) , they in this case must be snapped to the inner surface of the End walls, so the two NS walls can build up past them. This is also why Robert's method works as Walls WILL grow up on their own , if default wall top is on in the Structure tab, looking for a Roof Plan to Build too. M.

There were a number of issues Bob , most of the walls were misaligned over the 3 floors and the roof planes were skewed but that is fixed and I made the "extensions" out of a 16" brick wall with block core. ( real world?) I made a change to your new wall type ( no osb which was in the main layer) and deleted a few walls which seemed to be "extras" on one side of the house. Either end is done differently , one end uses Roof planes ( per Robert) the Other doesn't , I used my old method of editting the Walls in Elevation and adding Solids to the top of the walls as Caps , also done in Elevation then moved in Plan View as needed, so you can see the two methods. Move those walls again and you are on your own M. Orphanos Foundation Renovations_MHD.plan

I think you should as the wall alignment should have nothing to do with the Roof pitch generated * As a side note I switched all 3 walls in the good roof plan to DECK Railings ( interior used ) and set the roof Pitch to 4 and it immediately built correctly too... With some weirdness caused by the misalignment of the walls...

How did you get on Bob? I wanted to to try Robert's Roof plane Method as in the past I had just edited the walls in elevation after pulling the Roof planes back to the inner surface of the Gable End walls and then using a Solid or Slab to cap the Walls. The H Shape of the walls isn't something CA expects and it was a bit more work than I thought it should be fixing some wall anomalies in Elevation and 3D views but if you build the house as a rectangle as normal , then open the Gable walls and lock the center , then add say 32" ?, that will give you a 16" projection each side.....I did that each end, starting with the foundation and working my way up , not sure if working down would be better? Adding CAD center-lines through the house makes it fairly easy to use COPY>Reflect about Object to copy roof planes and Slabs to the other end of the house once you have the 1st one/side done. Here is my Play Plan so you can have a look .....Gable End Walls above Roofline.plan

You probably have the Layer with the symbol turned off in your 3D Camera Layerset I think it is on Fixtures, Exterior, but select it in 2D plan View and check it's layer assignment and then make sure that layer is turned on in the 3D camera View too. ( I have colour turned off in 3D View below ready to send to the CAD DETAIL)

You specified it should not have a "flat" Ceiling is my guess so you get the Sloped ceiling instead ...with the default material used. You also need to do you Forum Signature , like most others and let people know you are using X6 not X11 as the answers for your questions could be dramatically different these Days... *** To do your Signature .... go up to the top Right Hand Corner above and click on your UserName> Account Settings> Signature.... and enable Signature (will Turn Green) then add your Hardware Details and Chief Software Version, as different Version require different Answers. Mick

Is the "Panel" in the middle between the casements not glass ? I was thinking reading the OP I'd just use a Fixed Window and change the materials and sash sizes but my assumption maybe wrong? or I may misunderstand what the "middle" really is? M.

Thanks Graham , I'm still following along , I just don't have much to add to the thread myself..... Mick.

He wants to use the Manufacturer's Colours in their Library Dermot , so the usual way doesn't work as you can't assign them as the Pattern Colour it seems and only one (BAD) texture is provided. There is something wrong with the Mastic B&B Texture , it takes 12-15 secs to update a Wall Definition with it and even longer using the material definition tool to open it once on the Wall. Also due to the Texture sizing, 7" x 7", it makes the Siding look like it is "banded" on the wall. Personally I don't think it looks like B&B at all , the Batten appears reversed to my eyes......ie inset.... Personally I don't recommend "painting" Exterior Walls from past experience. M.

Take Elevation Views from each side (1) and then convert each Elevation Camera View to a CAD Detail (2) , then add or remove CAD lines and add Dimensions etc as needed (3) a and b 1.) 2.) 3. a 3.b.

I would suggest looking into the Nvidia Drivers , looks like you have an older laptop and Nvidia 296.88 is several years old ( current is 430.86) and there have been issues with older Nvidia Drivers. Not sure what Nvidia Card you have though from your Signature?. It's also possible that X11 didn't switch the GPU to the Nvidia Card ( Optimus) and that you are actually using the built in Intel GPU , the Render TAB in Preferences should tell you that. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/17190-inserting-object-from-library-browser-freezes-most-of-the-app/?do=findComment&comment=144430 M.

Thx for the heads up Doug...... PS. looks like you need to edit the thread Title to Bump Out Window.....

just ribbing ya a bit.... Ahhh so the Detail was correct then , I'd think a Ceiling Plane would be pretty easy too with the framing turned off.... M.

You know better than to not post a Plan ... Chopsaw would of fixed it for you already..... or Eric..... Can't you just use the Roof Surface for the Mesh if you want it aligned with the top of the Rafter ? if you meant the bottom you could use just use the ceiling surface no? ( your image doesn't show the screen at the top of the Rafter though) I am thinking this is a Greenhouse type structure but with mesh not glass? maybe not? M.

You would still need to build the framing.....( if auto is off ?) then you'd see the (Rim) Joists, but this is not a Deck ( as CA sees it though) make the "room" a Balcony. I am not sure why you are stuck on a "single layer wall" for the Railing? it isn't built like that ITRW either, ( if it was built this way in the RW of course ie adding the Raililng Wall built the Floor system too ) add the same thickness of stucco (and osb) to the exterior side of a new ( copied) Deck Railing Walltype and it all seems to work just fine to me. Do the same with a Straight Deck edge (no railing) and add a second straight railing ( mark walls as furred) and that would work for your 12" round column look too. Perhaps I am missing something though? pics below.... M.

search the Forum for Posts on spiral staircases which from the image this appears to be ? typically they don't use a single centered support stringer though and the treads are instead anchored to the central post on their inner edge. M.

Adding a Point on Sheet Zero , and then using Point to Point Move for one specific Corner of the House , should line them up sheet to sheet fairly well. You could also add the Point with Copy Paste > Hold Position on the other Sheets...... once you have Floor 1 positioned where you want it, then add the point to a corner and then C&P it to the other Sheets using Hold position. M.

You have no Framing in the main layer of your wall ( 2" of white colour and 2" of invisible airgap ? ) no drywall either and I am not sure why you have a 1/2 layer of Oak flooring in the middle of the Brick exterior wall layers? M.

David Potter supports all versions going back many years , he maybe able to help you with proof of your key....... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/profile/81-davidjpotter/ @DavidJPotter

You maybe right I thought it said V10 Full Version...... call CS with your Serial number handy and see if they will help....

I haven't seen the term Reglet used before but the latest Post on a Shadow Detail like that is this one I think......

The Updates Library still has older versions available , not sure about yours but here is the page.... scroll all the way down..... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/updates/oldupdates.html Otherwise I'd suggest calling Customer Support....

There is a whole Menu for curved walls too , I don't use them often but have found a CAD arc or circle works well for snapping too if needed.

If you used Live View ( update automatically /on demand), when you sent to Layout , open the Layout Box DBX and switch it to Plot Lines and don't update one page or the other. That should fix the current issue, in the future use two different cameras. If using Live View when you send......you normally get a warning about the Layset Updating when making Changes made in Plan and what will happen. M.

Chief's typical Railing Wall is a single layer framing only Wall Type , so I am guessing the "centering" is hardcoded with the option to Offset if needed and it appears in the case of your test plan the newels are exactly centered on your 7 1/2" wall . For what you are doing eg in the OP I would use a PonyWall , Stucco 6 on the bottom and my Railing on the Top (Post to Beam), you can play with the wall align buttons if posts are not centered. Make sure to show the lower wall in Plan view so you can see the alignment to the Main house ...... here the newel height is set to 0" so it goes to the beam , not sure why that worked