SNestor

I'm not really sure how to describe this issue so I have attached a video which better explains it. Here is video link: I'm wondering if any of you out in Chief world can recreate what I am experiencing with Chief Pony Walls. - Create a pony wall - save the wall to the library - in the library, right click on the saved wall - open it and change one of the materials. - Now...draw the pony wall in plan. It should appear defective...see pic attached. Watch the video to see exactly what I do and what happens. Maybe I have a video card issue? Wondering if someone could try to recreate and report back. Thanks and Merry Christmas to all!

I don't think so... What you are seeing is a picture...which is associated with the block material. You could do it by placing a very thin P-Solid on top of the wall...then, find a picture on the web of the top course of concrete block...edit it with a photo editing software so that it repeats correctly when you paint it on a surface. Or...just live with the limitations and move on down the road.

I've done a few videos on Dormers that you may want to watch...they aren't specific to your dormer but you might learn something. Just FYI. Looks like Eric has once again been very helpful...thank you Eric!

There is no one that gives more to this forum than Eric. I think your comment was quite rude and uncalled for. Nasty isn’t going to get you help in the future.

I would just raise your roof plane...even the windows in the dormer are sticking out above the roof plane. I am curious though as to why the floor finish is building out to the face or the "log" veneer...seems odd. Maybe someone can answer that.

Casey... Looks like you have a couple of problems... - Like Javatom states above...the exterior "wall type" is defined with a "zero" thickness. Change to at least 1/2" for siding. - The walls that separate the garage from the house appear to have been "painted". The siding is not the "default" material. You should open the wall for specification...select the "exterior wall surface"...click "select material"...select "plan materials"....scroll to the top of the list and select "default". Repeat for the interior wall surface. Or...just delete the walls and draw in new interior walls. SEE PICS ATTACHED... - EXTERIOR WALL TYPE: WALL BETWEEN HOUSE/GARAGE:

Looks like you drew the landing on the first floor... You need to open the landing DBX and change the the height of the landing. Uncheck "Auto Adjust Height"....

I actually use Transform/Replicate most of the time...I have a "hot key" assigned...so, for me it's 0,0...tab to the X and/or Y field...enter distance. Done. 10 seconds or less....

Select the objects - begin moving - press the TAB key - enter distance.

Available soon...a complete Chief Architect Library of "Screened Porch" railing panels, screen doors, wall types and materials. This package will be available via Dan Baumanns Chief Experts Academy. https://www.chiefexpertsacademy.com/store Here's a sneak peek video...

I bought Camtasia for 100.00...it was a Mac deal they offered. Well worth it. Makes creating videos a breeze.

I use Camtasia...but there are a numbers of programs that can do it.

I recently created a video on this topic...

Yes...Jenna the answer lady

I think you will find the stair tool will make you want you to take a hammer to your computer. It’s a tool that needs a complete overhaul.

It’s not a bug...it’s just how the software works. You could have created the p-solid risers in less time it took you to ask the question. All that said...the stair tool in Chief is ridiculously weak...and I don’t see huge improvements on the horizon. So...we will all be cursing this tool for some time to come.

I have a 5 year old iMac...no problems. Well...a little bit slow...but hey, it's 5 years old. Sounds to me like something else is wrong...but, I'm no computer expert.

I just did a quick drawing...I'm using a "frieze" board...and letting Chief place automatically. Seems to work fine. Why do it manually?

Fantastic tip Eric! Amazing...

How accurate were we in paper/pencil days? Get it close...draw a line and use a rich text box to state the "plate height". Then...move on to the next problem. I don't think we get paid enough to spend all day trying to get Chief to build a rafter within a sixteenth of an inch where it's "supposed" to be.... Maybe I'm alone on this?

The glass wall and a barn door does work...sort of. Using a glass wall and a barn door works if both ends are enclosed by walls...but, if you have a glass shower pony wall like shown in the pics below...the corner becomes an issue because the glass wall (for the door) won't join with the glass pony wall at the corner properly. Well...I've found it difficult. Maybe it's possible... If you use a "fixture" like the one I created (attached below)...you can use a room divider to enclose the shower room and then drop the fixture into the opening. It works well...and the door looks similar to the picture of a shower door that I posted above. Glass Shower Door Fixture: Glass Shower Door Fixed.calibz Pics - Glass wall and Barn Door Pics - Door is a "Fixture"

Got it. Thanks for clarifying...

Uh...show me where that is located in the window DBX. I can't find that option...

Uh...that's what I thought at first but...if you give this some thought it's not true. You are assuming all rafters will sit on the double top plate at the top of the wall...but, what if you raise the roof so that it is actually sitting on top of the plate of an "attic wall"? Which happens all the time. Also...how thick is the wall...what depth have you set the "seat cut" to...and, what is the roof pitch and rafter depth. There are a lot of variables. Chief has to be able to place a polyline box (the rafter) at the correct pitch and I think the only consistent point to "spring" the box from is the "baseline" point I've shown above. The software will always know where this point is. Yes...it's not "logical" to those of us that designed roofs for years with paper and pencil. I'm right there with you...but, you have to figure out how the software works and then make it work for you. I think you may want to create a cad detail. Draw your roof on top of the wall...at the pitch you want..or create multiple sections if you are using different roof pitches...and calculate the roof baseline elevation in this detail...then transfer this info to your roof building dialogue.

I created this "fixture" using P-solids. It's not a door...it's a fixture...therefore, you will have to drop it into your plan and size it properly to sit on your shower opening...or tub opening. I did this pretty quick...so, no guarantees it's 100% accurate. Glass Sliding Shower Door.calibz