Gawdzira

Can I make this stair, which is connected by a landing, have open risers on the top run of stairs only? Is this a job for PolySolidMan?

I have not seen this since about version x9. I am setting text with Rich Text and when I reopen the file my text is not displaying properly. See image for a typical example. I am not sure if this may be due to jumping between computers with different settings? I have been using 3 different computers over the past few weeks when I started to see this a lot. Is there a particular setting which will help me keep the text from doing this crazy dance?

Thanks. I found the instructions and example cabinet file.

The image shows my detail at rails and stiles of my cabinet face frames which will have inset faces. Can I do this with the cabinet DBX?

I just peed myself.

I save every 10 minutes. Then I rename it and save it again. Then I print it. Then I 3d print it. Then I get it tattooed on my dog. Then...

Throwing out a guess as to what you are doing...If you have only changed the material on this tab, you are only changing the pattern which will show in Line Drawing or Vector. You need to proportionally adjust the Texture to match your changes.

Thanks to you both for the suggestions.

I would like to be able to remove a gutter on a selected edge without opening up the DBX. I seem to end up doing this repeatedly when doing design development and it would be great if this was able to be a hotkey or a toolbar button. Is this possible to code as a Ruby script?

I sometimes will print out a floor plan and then overlay trace paper and redraw with a Flair pen. It can be less intimidating to the client since it has a more "quick" look to it and that it has not been so refined that someone thinks it is unchangeable.

I have a suggestion https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1983/delorean/dmc_12/101414839

Medical Marijuana is now widely available in the U.S..

Pinewood derby 2016. This was my daughters entry that I may have helped a little with the build... My son's car, which is the flat plate look, won that year in our little troop. He did the hard work. Drilling, sanding and 8 steps of sanding on the axles.

One layer of 5/8" type x gyp. bd. is all we need for the 1 hour rating at a garage wall with 2x4@16" o.c.. It seems like that would suffice for the fire code/CRC code.

That woman's question regarding punching up the elevation line weights is the crux of the matter. CA is still not getting it. The line with air behind it needs to pop.

ARRRRRRRR.

Some more food for thought. This is a different recent design for an ADU that had a different shape allowed for the building due to set backs. Again, these are very constrained projects due to the scope and available space on the lot. I am not sure if you have such constraints.

Hello Jerry, Some notes for you basedongawdzira V1A.plan

Not your project but a similar one in program (ADU) that I am working on now. I am on the coast of California so we don't need the mudroom type entry.

1. Is this in N.H.? If so, a slab might not be a great choice due to insulation and frost heave. It is a good question for a local builder or architect. A slab can save you a lot of money 2. the bathroom is o.k. but I would reconsider the vanity space. That is not a lot of counter space even if just for one person. 3. Heat pump heating systems are very efficient. Will you have solar panels? If so, you could end up with net zero with a well insulated house and a heat pump heating system. Also take a look at the radiant panels by Mighty Energy http://mightyenergy.net/ 4. Your space planning is o.k. but not great by any means and there are some bright red flags that I would suggest changing. a. the entry is very compressed. Also, if you are in a cold climate, don't you want a distinct entry so you don't open the front door and lose all your heat? b. the closets are at odd and not useful sizes. Unless the closet is a walk in, having it be only slightly larger than 25" deep is not practical. It is also a hassle for accessibility. And, based on your post, accessibility is the key here. The walk in closet needs to be a minimum of 80" wide. Even at 80" it is a challenge to have 2 rows of clothes and comfortable isle. Any smaller than 80" and you are better off at 60" with clothes on one side. c. The living area does not work well for furniture or flow. I would not lay the house out like this. Unless the key element is to have the bedrooms on opposite sides of the house, I would change this layout. For a house this small, to create the kitchen in it's own room is really hurting you. A more open plan would work a lot better. d. 25'10" makes no sense. Start this design with whole numbers and even numbers are better than odd. Make that 26' x 44'

I would consider a methodology to avoid attic / roof venting altogether. If you put a layer of rigid insulation on top of the roof sheathing you can avoid the need to ventilated the roof. The thickness of the insulation will vary according to your climate zone. I am very paranoid about any roof vents. Roof and eave vents are the most common ways for fire embers to enter a house. If you must use vents, look for fire safe venting options.

Holy guacamole. I am glad I looked at this thread. That code item is banana-pants.

Thanks. I was looking at the wrong wall to drag that plane to. Thanks for being that fresh set of eyes.

I have an odd situation. I am doing a very small offset of 2 walls. Sure, the easy fix is to align the walls but they don't call me uneasy Al for nothin'. in the images you can see that the roof framing is ignoring the attic wall and using the wall below to get the framing info so that 3d model is getting messed up by the framing members. I can delete the framing but then the soffit is short. In the image with the trapezoid highlighted, that is a hack fix for the siding. It is under a layer called Walls Hack Fix. Any ideas on a way to deal with this? Moving the walls is not the answer I am looking for. Help me Mr. Wizard (for you Millennial's, Mr. Wizard was a hero of mine, as are most reptiles) x12 file LinCor start dd v4 b.zip

When I sketch, I am at the same seat as when I use my keyboard. I will just move my keyboard out of the way and work with some trace paper or a drawing pad. Therefore I am generally using the light of my monitor. I would suggest you work on a filter/magnifier of light from the monitor. No additional energy but a modification for the energy being used right in front of me.