CharlesVolz

Howdy Robert, Nowadays, with a good survey (including topo and tree surveys, if necessary), Google Earth, US geological survey maps, etc., it has become less important to be able to walk a site. I usually meet the client and walk the site only once at the beginning of a job and only if the site is within an hour or two from my office. One client hired me because I am 30 minutes away from where they lived and 2 1/2 hours from the building site. I designed a large home and a boat barn on the Texas coast for them and never met them until some 10 years later when they hired me to design another home for them which was closer to me. I have designed or helped design homes all over the United States, Canada, England, New Zealand, etc. and have not had the any problems with me not being local. I do avoid the worst of the worse, like Southern California unless I am helping another designer or hire out the energy calcs etc. Most governing authorities have their code requirements on a website and most use the IRC code or modification thereof. Just my thoughts, Charles

F1

Howdy Jim, It depends on your settings. In X10 go to Default Settings/Plan/Living Area and you can select Main Layer or Surface. Manually, what I do is use the Make Room Polyline tool as above. Just make sure the polyline is outlining what you want.

Howdy Bob, What I do is create my own library of plumbing items. Then open each item in the library and change their layer to "plumbing". The next time use them they will be on the correct layer for you. Regards, Charles

Howdy Jim, Walls will build up to a roof plane. It looks like you copied the gable roof planes and did not adjust the main roof plane below. Break the main roof plan 3 places to make a triangle to meet the gable roof planes. Regards, Charles

Thanks Steve! Good job! Package up a collection and I will buy them. Regards, Charles

CA does a great job. Use a CAD detail created by making a plan footprint (CAD/Plan Footprint).

Here or use the icon hot button. EDIT: Sorry about that. I thought from your 1st post that you were just trying to display arc centers and ends... I need some sleep...

Create a "porch type" room for the patio or manually draw an attic wall on the attic floor. Charles

Adam is correct. Stephen, what we are saying is that when you mull 2 windows with no casing on them that you will get a mulled unit with interior and exterior casing and then have to take the extra step to remove the casing.

This is the layout that would use:

If no foundation or frost walls are required, you can use a stair with one tread and the riser height, tread overhang and tread thickness set as desired.

Larry, I got the ceiling to behave better by changing the ceiling material to your fir planking (rotated) and making it 1/16" thick per the picts below. Just angle your 3D camera carefully and you're good to go. Regards, Charles

The landing size and type depend on the space that you want to allocate to it. The code requires a minimum 36" landing in the path of travel, but you'll also want to cover your door openings. One thing I'd consider doing is moving your exterior doors closer to the adjoining wall and resizing your opening to the kitchen so that the doors don't overlap the door opening or the casing as in the 1st pict. Then you could place your steps on the left side a landing to minimize the footprint as in the 2nd pict. Note that you have to cover the sliding door opening but not the fixed glass side. If you want to make the steps a little nicer and use up more space, you could you could wrap the steps around the top and left sides and/or you could round off the left top corner of the landing and round the steps. Regards, Charles

Larry, it seems you deck planks are fighting for space. The plank fills in if you give it room per the first 2 picts (where the planks are told to align with the larger deck area) or if you create a separate deck the second 2 picts (where the planks are not told to align). Regards, Charles

How about File/Export/Export Chief Architect 3D Viewer File?

I can help you. please email me or give me a call at 210 744-7489. Regards, Charles

I can help you. I sent you a message via this forum. Regards, Charles

I just upgraded to a Sony 50" 4k because my 43" Seiki 4k died. The larger size is great but you have to decide on your physical setup. I had the 43" on my 36" deep desk. It had a short stand and a small bezel and it worked great. You have to keep the monitor low enough not to hurt your neck from too high of a sight angle. I moved my toolbars to the bottom of the screen which helped a lot. On the 50", I moved it just off of my desk and mounted on an adjustable floor stand which works really great. I highly recommend this stand. I lowered the tv to just above the desk and do not use the shelf.

Thanks!

I really want to join you guys. Let's see . . . 5 pm CDT . . . mother-in-law's birthday dinner . . . but I really want to join the CA workshop . . . mother-in-law's birthday dinner . . . Please record it for us married folks. Charles

Great Job! Thanks!

Listen to Joe regarding the face count . . . and everything else he's ever said . Depending on the amount of railings and the detail (faces), it is amazing how quickly your plan will get bogged down.

Greg?, I hope to have my EVGA Nvidia GeForce 760 GTX 4GB for sale once I install the new card that has arrived. Regards, Charles