CharlesVolz

Adam is correct. Stephen, what we are saying is that when you mull 2 windows with no casing on them that you will get a mulled unit with interior and exterior casing and then have to take the extra step to remove the casing.

This is the layout that would use:

If no foundation or frost walls are required, you can use a stair with one tread and the riser height, tread overhang and tread thickness set as desired.

Larry, I got the ceiling to behave better by changing the ceiling material to your fir planking (rotated) and making it 1/16" thick per the picts below. Just angle your 3D camera carefully and you're good to go. Regards, Charles

The landing size and type depend on the space that you want to allocate to it. The code requires a minimum 36" landing in the path of travel, but you'll also want to cover your door openings. One thing I'd consider doing is moving your exterior doors closer to the adjoining wall and resizing your opening to the kitchen so that the doors don't overlap the door opening or the casing as in the 1st pict. Then you could place your steps on the left side a landing to minimize the footprint as in the 2nd pict. Note that you have to cover the sliding door opening but not the fixed glass side. If you want to make the steps a little nicer and use up more space, you could you could wrap the steps around the top and left sides and/or you could round off the left top corner of the landing and round the steps. Regards, Charles

Larry, it seems you deck planks are fighting for space. The plank fills in if you give it room per the first 2 picts (where the planks are told to align with the larger deck area) or if you create a separate deck the second 2 picts (where the planks are not told to align). Regards, Charles

How about File/Export/Export Chief Architect 3D Viewer File?

I can help you. please email me or give me a call at 210 744-7489. Regards, Charles

I can help you. I sent you a message via this forum. Regards, Charles

I just upgraded to a Sony 50" 4k because my 43" Seiki 4k died. The larger size is great but you have to decide on your physical setup. I had the 43" on my 36" deep desk. It had a short stand and a small bezel and it worked great. You have to keep the monitor low enough not to hurt your neck from too high of a sight angle. I moved my toolbars to the bottom of the screen which helped a lot. On the 50", I moved it just off of my desk and mounted on an adjustable floor stand which works really great. I highly recommend this stand. I lowered the tv to just above the desk and do not use the shelf.

Thanks!

I really want to join you guys. Let's see . . . 5 pm CDT . . . mother-in-law's birthday dinner . . . but I really want to join the CA workshop . . . mother-in-law's birthday dinner . . . Please record it for us married folks. Charles

Great Job! Thanks!

Listen to Joe regarding the face count . . . and everything else he's ever said . Depending on the amount of railings and the detail (faces), it is amazing how quickly your plan will get bogged down.

Greg?, I hope to have my EVGA Nvidia GeForce 760 GTX 4GB for sale once I install the new card that has arrived. Regards, Charles

Thanks Mick, I bought the EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC GAMING ACX 3.0, 8GB GDDR5, LED, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Card 08G-P4-6173-KR for $500 + tax from Amazon (free shipping + 5% ($25) cash back via Amazon credit card). I had already (mentally) stepped up from the 1060 discussed above. I didn't want to pay another $130 US or ~25% more. Also, the 1080 is not available now (not that I am in a hurry).

Buy Here at Amazon.

Thanks Mick, I am SSA using X10 ...thought I changed that! I have had good luck with EVGA as that is my existing brand.

Thanks Mick, Wow, thanks Mick...do you work off of a commission. I have a kid in college and another headed in that direction. I was checking out the EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC GAMING ACX 3.0, 8GB GDDR5, LED, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Card 08G-P4-6173-KR for $500. It is hard to get a handle on all the new cards because I am not a gamer...just a chiefer. So I can't tell what improvement I may get with CA vs the cost. I built this current desktop in 2014 and keep adding to it because (a) it still seems to be effective, and (b) I don't want to spend the time to build a new one right now.

I didn't have any trouble. See the attached. Watson_Plan_111_CR_2229_CV.zip

Howdy Michael, For the columns on the back porch, I just deleted the short foundation walls that were under each column. Just go down to your foundation level and use the marquee select for those areas, turning the reference floor on for the columns above if you want to find them easily. I suspect that you had an extraneous foundation wall under a column and then copied it when you copy the columns. You should not need a footing under a grade beam in that location, but if you want a footing use a footing not a foundation wall or align it on the outside edge. I'm looking at your plan in X9 and I'm showing the garage slab at -1 1/2" already. Regards, Charles

Thanks for the info guys. It may be time for me to upgrade my card which is a Nvidia GeoForce GTX 760 with 4 GB of memory. Any thoughts?

The baseline height and its horizontal location are integral to the roof plane's height and location. As Eric suggested, I would also suggest YouTube videos and/or the Chief Architect's videos. Or getting some one-on-one tutoring if that's what you prefer. I will send you a private message about that. Regards, Charles

Your roof planes are too high. Get your roof plane settings as you desire, then draw a new roof plane where the problem is, marking "Over top of the wall" when asked. It is more difficult to understand roofs when your roof baselines are not where CA draws them, as yours are not. Regards, Charles

Georgia is a large state. What area are you from? I travel to NW Georgia a few times a year.