CharlesVolz

How many???

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It is always good to help! (when my suggestion works) We were all beginners once upon a time and went through the frustrations of learning this sophisticated software. And, it is more difficult to learn every year with the added features and tools. Best, Charles

Simple: 1. Post the plan. 2. Rebuild your framing. 3. Post the plan.

Set up your roof defaults, draw the room exactly how you want it. Use CAD lines to snap walls or the Build> Wall> Polygon Shaped Room tool. Turn on roof autobuild setting. Note that manually building roofs like this is problematic as they do not snap together correctly.

Yes, in order to keep your fascia level (if that is your goal).

Roof or ceiling plane?

Since I am a cup of coffee short of starting my CA day: 1. Complete signature. 2. Post plan. 3. Read replies. Or, 1. Search help for Curved Roof Planes. 2. Search help for Boxed Eave [sic]. Later... I thought you were targeting this eaves.

2 B's or not 2 B's...

Interesting... After opening 3 or 4 tabs, I resort to the Project Browser to navigate.

99% chance of an easy fix...

I'm missing something here. Why is printing in gray scale not ok? Are you printing to PDF?

That is probably 30' from the OH door to the far edge of the drive, perpendicular to the OH door. Right Maxie?

Turning radius - Wikipedia.pdf

I Use: 1st: Myriad Pro/Myriad Pro Condensed (5" dimensions and labels, 3" small notes, 6" & 8" large notes and labels.) 2nd: Arial/Arial Narrow (4 ½" dimensions and labels, 3" small notes, 6" & 8" large notes and labels.)

Post the plan.

FWIW, I never design or build a deck attached to a cladded structure. I always build a deck adjacent to a structure to be free-standing and not connected to the structure. I allow 1 ½" or 3 ½" between the cladding and the adjacent deck supports, depending if the deck planking is running perpendicular or parallel to the exterior wall of the structure. Then I cantilever the deck planking to ½" from cladding to allow for some expansion and movement. For a slight increase in cost (in most cases), this has the following benefits: 1. Avoids future deck failure due to: a. Ledger board anchors being improperly installed, usually due to: i. incorrect anchors being used, ii. anchors not being properly fastened into the exterior walls structural framing members, iii. incorrect flashing and/or flashing installation. b. Undetected moisture damage and wood rot around the anchors. (Note: The above are the causes of most of the serious residential deck failures in the U.S.) 2. Avoids penetrations that can lead to moisture damage and the intrusion of termites and other pests. 3. Avoids blocking the access to the wall and its cladding, hindering future replacement, repairs, painting, sealing, etc. 4. Allows more flexibility in designing the deck and its location, shape, deck floor elevation, etc. 5. Easier to replace the deck, which has a short life span compared to most residential structures.

Grid snaps off?

Not sure why you are having trouble, but if I were having trouble, I would probably just use point-to-point dimensions or insert points, then dimension the points and move them to the correct distances, then snap the polyline to the points.

Roof Tip: Walls extend upward until they meet the prescribed rough ceiling elevation, a ceiling plane, or a roof plane, whichever comes first. In other words, a roof plane can cut off a wall (and its attic wall extension).

Post a link to the plan. Upload the plan to Google Drive, Dropbox, etc....

You may have something with a thickness as an interior wall layer, other than just the 1/2" drywall. Otherwise, align your 2 walls properly. Or, of course, you could post the plan... Also, I see four areas where drywall is missing, but I am not sure which ones you are thinking of.