Michael_Gia

Merci Ivan, pareillement. En passant, joli site web!

When you designate a room as a garage type then Chief just changes basically 3 items in the structure tab of the room DBX. 1) floor height drops. 2) stem wall shrinks and 3) the check box is removed from “floor under this room” to a check in “floor supplied by the foundation room below. It’s their way of helping you get started and creating the illusion that Chief somehow knows something magical, and then you’re supposed to say, wow! This smoke and mirrors approach often creates more confusion than anything else. Sarcasm aside, you should get real comfortable with pony walls. They are the proper way to define walls such as the ones you are describing here. They have another advantage as you can create step foundation walls without those walls re-healing or re-joining after you’ve split them to create a step wall. I also build in the Montreal area and I’m pretty sure you are looking to drop the brick line of your garage facade wall so it’s only 12” above your driveway so you don’t get that unsightly 42” of barren concrete just in front of where your poor client is going to park his bmw… The best way to do this again is with a pony wall. You’ll be able wrap that wall onto the side of the home for that first 24” which is also pretty common. Also, you don’t want to build a knee wall (because of compression issues) probably for the dropped facade of your garage wall which is what Chief will do if you decide to mess around with the brick ledge feature, don’t do that. Stick to a pony wall. Also don’t drag the exterior brick finish down and foundation up to create what you’re looking for, this is chaos. Besides being chaos you never really know the elevation of what you’re dragging down or up. As for the pony wall you do and this information can allow you to accurately place ledges/sills to divide, for example a lower stone wall, and upper brick or siding wall. You’ll know exactly where your window will sit above your sill. Hope that helps.

I don’t know what climate zone you’re in but I would have to extend my foundation walls another 54” below the bottom riser of your exterior staircase (a frost pit), and a drain. Also you can build a roof plane in the middle of the solar system for all Chief is concerned. Just move it wherever and add posts and beams separately if you want or use p-solids to create those. If you want the auto roof to build your roof then build an exterior room and define its floor elevation, roof and ceiling height as per usual. Maybe I’m missing something but it seems pretty standard.

File > Export > Collada. That’s the .dae format. I think it’s the best format. If you’re on apple then you even get the 3D model in the file thumbnail in the finder window. Another free option is TwinMotion. You should checkout Rene Rabbit's YouTube channel for Chief to TwinMotion tutorials. https://youtube.com/channel/UCbkgwAcrZQP0Ek0bNmqpgAQ

I don’t use the brick ledge feature anymore. I find I have more control by using pony walls to properly represent brick ledges. The brick ledge portion often has a different wall composition from the wall it’s a part of so I don’t want extra material where I don’t need it. Often for a facade wall, we’ll bring down the brick veneer sometimes 36” from the top of the foundation wall by inserting a 2” styrofoam panel when we pour the concrete to create the hollow for our brick ledge. The only way to achieve this properly in Chief is with a pony wall. TL:DR pony walls are your friend.

Well, I did respond to the original post, and that was to correct OP and everyone else that there was nothing wrong with the dimensioning approach in the image. The image shows a very common way to dimension. It shows dimensioning to the brick it doesn’t mean it’s measuring from a brick veneer but to the outside of a foundation. Of course I had to add in my very condescending tone with the rest of my comment but that’s just me…lol. There is more than one way to skin a cat, of course. You guys obviously deal with carpenters who can’t figure out how to place a 2x4 on a floor from a center line which I find laughable. You’re all harping about your precious design considerations, meanwhile you open yourselves up for a very dangerous situation where a support wall could be off-center. Isn’t that more important than Mrs. Jones getting her pantry at precisely 24” clear interior to accommodate her new filter queen?

Export to TwinMotion. You don’t need your lighting. Walkthroughs are so much simpler and straight forward on TM. For large projects with multiple buildings I will convert the buildings into symbols first then export into TM. I only have a MacBook and have no problem with large projects using this approach.

You guys do things funny. It’s not that he’s dimensioning the brick. If you read the whole plan then you should see a note that says the exterior surface of all exterior walls are deemed to be inline with the exterior surface of the foundation walls. This is for structural reasons. Also in this method (the correct method) all bearing walls are dimensioned from the exterior wall surface to the center of all bearing walls, beams and posts. Architects are not concerned about simplifying the math for framers. They’re concerned about proper construction. Dimensioning to lumber is careless design.

Here… https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/311/creating-a-suspended-or-dropped-ceiling.html

You should learn about the “distribute plant” feature in the Garden Bed tool. here is a post with a few great suggestions. but if you really want great grass then download TwinMotion, export your model and add the grass in there. It’s free.

I really wish everyone would stop acting like there’s a solution or a fix. There isn’t, until Chief decides to fix this very irritating problem. Everything else is bullshit. I do a lot of sit-downs with clients, so if you think it’s frustrating and disruptive of workflow when you’re alone, imagine when it happens in front of your clients. The issue is related to when more than one monitors are used. Especially when one monitor has a different resolution than the other. Chief should be ashamed of themselves at this point. It’s disgusting.

You need a beam to support that brick. it’s actually a good thing that Chief won’t automatically fill in that void with brick since it’s not really possible without support.

That did the trick. Thanks! ...again

It works, just need to round out the decimal places to 0. I thought by entering in, area.round(0) would give me no decimal places but it just adds .00

Thanks Chopsaw, I had a typo originally, but now it works great. Pretty neat stuff.

Yes, that's what I was able to do as well except I loose the comma separator. If you uncheck "use default formatting" you lose the comma. ...and yes, I was trying to get sq.ft. in French, lol

What controls the "Use Default Formatting" in the Polyline DBX? When this is selected I get "sq ft" suffix that I would like to change to something else.

Great video, and just in time for what I'm working on. Chief sometimes just has too many tools with overlapping capabilities, so it's easy to get lost. This video shows how to stick with the most basic of tools and improvise.

from…. https://fineartprinting.la/pixels-per-inch-file-resolution-for-printing/ QUICK TIP: If you take the pixel dimensions of your file, and divide each number by 150, you’ll get the dimension ( in inches ) of the largest size we will recommend that you print your file. As an example, if you have a file that is 4500 x 6000, you can take each of those numbers – divide by 150 – and you’ll get 30 x 40 inches. You can use the table below as a general guide to the pixel dimensions needed for printing. The table will show you how many pixels are in a specific print size across various print resolutions, and will help you answer the question of, ‘How large can I print my file?’ NOTE: You may not find your exact pixel dimensions here. This table is intended to give you at least a rough idea. We’d like to receive print files that are a minimum of 180 pixels per inch. Scroll to the bottom of the page for information about iPhone camera resolutions. PRINT SIZE 125 PIXELS PER INCH 180 PIXELS PER INCH 300 PIXELS PER INCH 4 x 6 500 x 750 720 x 1080 1200 x 1800 4 x 8 500 x 1000 720 x 1440 1200 x 2400 5 x 5 625 x 625 900 x 900 1500 x 1500 5 x 7 625 x 875 900 x 1260 1500 x 2100 5 x 10 625 x 1250 900 x 1800 1500 x 3000 5 x 15 625 x 1875 900 x 2700 1500 x 4500 6 x 8 750 x 1000 1080 x 1440 1800 x 2400 6 x 9 750 x 1125 1080 x 1620 1800 x 2700 8 x 8 1000 x 1000 1440 x 1440 2400 x 2400 8 x 10 1000 x 1250 1440 x 1800 2400 x 3000 8 x 12 1000 x 1500 1440 x 2160 2400 x 3600 8 x 16 1000 x 2000 1440 x 2880 2400 x 4800 8 x 24 1000 x 3000 1440 x 4320 2400 x 7200 8.5 x 11 1063 x 1375 1530 x 1980 2550 x 3300 9 x 12 1125 x 1500 1620 x 2160 2700 x 3600 10 x 10 1250 x 1250 1800 x 1800 3000 x 3000 10 x 13 1250 x 1625 1800 x 2340 3000 x 3900 10 x 14 1250 x 1750 1800 x 2520 3000 x 4200 10 x 15 1250 x 1750 1800 x 2700 3000 x 4500 10 x 20 1250 x 2500 1800 x 3600 3000 x 6000 10 x 30 1250 x 3750 1800 x 5400 3000 x 9000 11 x 11 1375 x 1375 1980 x 1980 3300 x 3300 11 x 14 1375 x 1750 1980 x 2520 3300 x 4200 11 x 17 1375 x 2125 1980 x 3060 3300 x 5100 11 x 22 1375 x 2750 1980 x 3960 3300 x 6600 12 x 12 1500 x 1500 2160 x 2160 3600 x 3600 12 x 18 1500 x 2250 2160 x 3240 3600 x 5400 12 x 24 1500 x 3000 2160 x 4320 3600 x 7200 12 x 36 1500 x 4500 2160 x 6480 3600 x 10800 15 x 30 1875 x 3750 2700 x 5400 4500 x 9000 16 x 16 2000 x 2000 2880 x 2880 4800 x 4800 16 x 20 2000 x 2500 2880 x 3600 4800 x 6000 16 x 24 2000 x 3000 2880 x 4320 4800 x 7200 18 x 24 2250 x 3000 3240 x 4320 5400 x 7200 20 x 20 2500 x 2500 3600 x 3600 6000 x 6000 20 x 24 2500 x 3000 3600 x 4320 6000 x 7200 20 x 30 2500 x 3750 3600 x 5400 6000 x 9000 20 x 40 2500 x 5000 3600 x 7200 6000 x 12000 22 x 28 2750 x 3500 3960 x 5040 6600 x 8400 24 x 24 3000 x 3000 4320 x 4320 7200 x 7200 24 x 30 3000 x 3750 4320 x 5400 7200 x 9000 24 x 36 3000 x 4500 4320 x 6480 7200 x 10800 30 x 30 3750 x 3750 5400 x 5400 9000 x 9000 30 x 40 3750 x 5000 5400 x 7200 9000 x 12000 30 x 45 3750 x 5625 5400 x 8100 9000 x 13500 36 x 48 6000 x 4500 8640 x 6480 14400 x 10800 40 x 60 7200 x 4800 10800 x 7200 18000 x 12000

With the windows sitting right on top of that trim piece I think you’ll be able to get more precession with a pony wall. Otherwise you’ll fuss around too much trying to line up your material region.

I have sent in this problem multiple times in the past and it was treated as if it never happens to anyone else. No solution and no acknowledgement of a problem even though you are all aware of it. To my knowledge I don’t think any other software on the planet has a problem with their toolbars. It’s bizarre. Chief doesn’t need any new features. I’d gladly give up new features for the next 3 years of SSA if you all promised to fix the problems the program already has.

Disingenuous replies above. There is a major problem with Chief toolbars when more than one monitor is involved. It has been a while that there has not been a fix for this. If like to see Chief at least own up to it.

For question #2. You’ll only get terrain thickness when the camera is outside the terrain boundary in plan view. Q3. You often have to reload 3D views on the layout. Otherwise the printout is minuscule for some reason. Just update the view before printing when this happens.

I'm all out of popcorn.

How about, “Tips and Tricks, NOT General Q&A!!!” …but seriously, the only way this can work is how it’s done on most other sites, and that is, there has to be a moderator for each sub to control this sort of stuff. It’s the moderator’s job, whether they are a paid human, a volunteer or a bot, to reprimand, advise or redirect crappy posts on the various subs in this forum. As it is, this forum is a little like the Wild West, where there are a handful of vigilantes trying their best to monitor and moderate. It’s quite sad actually.