glennw

Window Defaults...General panel...Options...Minimum Separation.

Select walls, Cut, change floor, Paste Hold Position.

If I knew what PST was, I may be able to answer your question. If you mean Pacific Standard time, I am even more confused because that is a time zone that covers west coast USA - how could Sydney (or the rest of the world) move to that?

Have you tried Clear Printer Info?

Scott, I haven't come across something as obvious as your example. Happy to have an online session - let me know when. I think you work off a template with cameras already set up with views already sent to layout? That sort of setup may be causing a problem with remembered shadows.

You can use a Wall Material Region to cut layers from the wall and insert a wall finish for the recess. Then use the door's Jamb depth and Inset to locate the door the desired depth in the wall. This is a quick one I just did. You may have to edit your wall layers as the Wall Material Region will only cut surfaces back to the main layer. ie, it will only cut finish wall layers.

You would still need another 4"-6" under the window for a sill flashing.

Open the wall specification dbx for the pony wall. Go to the Wall Cap panel...Selected Profile Offset...Vertical Offset. A zero vertical offset will place the cap at the top of the lower wall.

Steve, Default Settings...Walls...General Wall Defaults...Show Wall Length When Editing? Or turn off temp dimensions. Your post is a bit confusing and I am not 100% what you mean.

Newell, You are braver man than I. Glenn

In addition to all the other methods, you can also use the mouse to flick a 3D view to rotate it. The faster you flick, the faster the model will rotate.

Thanks for the compliment David.

I'm assuming you can't do this mathematically This is possible in full Chief to do this graphically - I'm not sure about your version though. Draw your triangular roof plane and then take a cross section/elevation camera perpendicular to the new gable you just created. Snap a line along the roof plane top and drag it above the roof so it is out of the way. You can now use the angle of this line (you will probably need the reciprocal angle) to set your Baseline Angle for your next rectangular roof. You can then change the angle ( Baseline Angle) of the rectangular roof and you will probably have to move this rectangular roof up to meet the triangular roof. The key is to use the cross section/elevation camera perpendicular to your first roof plane to get the angle running up the gable roof. It's good to have 3 views open to see what is happening in all views - plan view, cross section/elevation and a 3D overview.

Do you want to build the roof auto. And do you want it something like this? You need to be a bit clearer on what roof pitches you want and where.

Are you sure that you are not selecting the room and not the rear wall? Go to Preferences...Architectural...Walls...uncheck "Select Room Before Walls in 3D". Try selecting the wall.

Bob, In plan view, do a Fill Window zoom. You have some polysolids down below the building on the Framing, Steel I Beams layer. They are in a vertical line and line up with the right hand side of your building. Delete them and all is OK.

Why not use a General Framing member?

To auto build the roof, you need to do this: Delete the baseline polylines. Turn on auto roofs. Create a small room behind the front doors with the same ceiling height as the front porch. These can be invisible walls. The rear wall needs to be at least as far back as where the left hand hip is located. Make the wall that contains the front doors a no room def wall. If you prefer, once the roof is built, you can turn off auto roofs and revert the walls etc back to normal - as long as you don't want to auto roof again, or you will lose your roof. If you can live with the invisible walls (which you can turn off the display) and the small extra room, I would leave auto roof on so that if you make any other changes to the plan, the roof will auto rebuild correctly. Or...another way would be to turn on Make Roof Baselines Polylines once you have the invisible walls and no room def wall in place. You could then return walls and rooms back to normal.

Just to be clear, when you create a new layer, it is created in ALL layersets - so no need to (you can't) create new layers on each layerset - it's cfreate a new layer on all layersets or nothing. The Modify All Layer Sets checkbox only applies to the layers attributes. Way back in past versions, the Modify All Layer Sets applied to the creation of layers. ie, you could create a layer that existed only in one layerset - this led to all sorts of problems and was thankfully changed.

I believe Javatom is correct. Michaels way will give you a stepped terrain with level benching. The OP asked for straight lines between the elevation points, not level lines - unless he wrote incorrectly.

Mick, I understood that the minimum pitch allowed was 4:12. Although the first post wasn't very clear as I don't know who "they" are.

Change the room type from a Deck to some other internal room type.

How can the builder already give a price when firstly, you can't draw it, and secondly, you can't build it? Probably you should ask the builder what he priced!

Newell, You will have a very hard time roofing that as you want. If it were mine, I would leave the existing roof as is and use a flat, waterproof, operable roof something like this: You get a waterproof roof that you can open on sunny days - particularly suitable in a case such as yours where the verandah is so deep that it will reduce the amount of light reaching the living room doors. It would probably cost less than changing the existing roof. It would also be a great feature of the verandah and add some interest. http://www.vergolansw.com.au

Generate on Lower Platform? Or you could post the plan.