glennw

The edit handles are located according to the Resize About setting (Alt+Q). So you need to be aware of this.

This is done all in one plan - I wouldn't even think of doing it any other way.

What would you do in real life?

Joe, Yes, you are correct. But I don't think that I was wrong - it does work that way. But, yes, yours is the better and easiest way.

I assume that you are talking about Moldings and not Millwork - there is a difference. To work on a Molding profile, use it on a molding polyline. Take a cross section through the Molding. Cad Detail from View. You can now edit the shape, copy, paste, etc.

Curt, I was doing some housekeeping and deleted all my pictures. Which, in hindsight, was probably a mistake. You will just have to use your imagination!

I would put the house and garage in the same plan, even though they are at different levels. That shouldn't cause much of a problem. It is easy to define the garages own levels, etc. I have done this many times. Too many disadvantages putting them in separate plans.

My opinion, for what it is worth, is to do the garage and house in one plan and place the adjoining buildings as you have outlined. There should be no problem controlling the garage and house, even if they are separate structures - well, maybe some small problems, but none that would be a deal breaker. Orient you plans on the screen as you want and do not rotate or move them - move and rotate the terrain instead.

Joe, I just had cataract surgery, but not for cataracts. I was both long and short sighted which meant wearing multi focals 100% of the time, which is a real hassle for sports, etc. I had my old lenses removed and replaced with Zeiss Intraocular lenses. I now have better than 20/20 vision and no glasses for the rest of my life - fantastic!

I believe you can't break the wall because you are trying to break it too close to the end of the wall. Chief insists on a minimum wall length which I think is about 1.5x the wall thickness. One way to overcome this restriction is to use a very thin invisible wall placed perpendicular to the wall you are trying to break. Place the invisible wall away from the corner with a break in the main wall. Drag the invisible wall close to the corner and the break will follow the invisible wall. Probably easier to use some other method though.

Well then, why can't you just use a hotkey for Select which will cancel the current command and put you in selection mode.

If you want Esc to return you to Selection mode, why don't you change it to do that. OOB Esc is mapped to Cancel Selection/Previous Command - but that can be changed. So if you wanted to retain that command (Cancel Selection), you would need to assign that to another hotkey. It may be just me, but I think I would prefer to keep Esc as Cancel Selection.

The trick to getting the top view is to use a Floor Overview camera and then 3D...View Directions...Top View. You can use the cross section slider to get your doors to show in a Standard view.

I think Jim gave you the answer. You should be able to use either Perpendicular Extension Snaps or Orthogonal Extension Snaps. Or you can draw the wall right across as 1 wall and then break it at the appropriate places - this way is usually more accurate as you are not trying to align things.

The double window is easily achieved by using Copy In Place. The "grouping" of windows is achieved by either mulling windows together or you may be talking about using the Vertical Stacking on the window's Options Panel.

There is really no "break dimension" command. But you can delete a dimension from a dimension string, which will effectively break the dimension, but you will loose the one dimension from the dimension string. To delete the one dimension from a string, draw over it with s dimension line.

Go Preferences...Reset Options (at the bottom)...Reset Side Windows.

I find that I don't loose the polygon if I left click and continue the click dragging.

No, No. Nothing to do with alternate behaviour. Out of date driver issue - bunkum! That symbol is telling you that the terrain needs rebuilding. That's why it goes away when you turn on auto build terrain.

You are using the tool incorrectly. It isn't designed to convert a polyline into a hole. It is designed to create a hole. The "little square hole" is THE hole, which you can then shape as you want. ie Select the road. Select "Create Hole" from the edit menu. You can then either click to create a small square hole. or click an drag a larger hole. You can then shape the hole as needed.

The Flat Region works as you have discovered - the level can't be set and it just "averages out" a level pad. For more control, you need to use the Elevation Region tool. With one of these, you can adjust the level in relation to the terrain to whatever you want. You can find it at Terrain...Elevation Data...Elevation Region.

Wow, this one is a bit of a trial! If all you want to do is change the label, double click the outlet symbol. go to the Label panel, click Specify Label and type in whatever you want.

Select the road. The last tool on the Edit toolbar is Create Hole. This will create a hole in the road, including a curb , which has it's own curb settings, independent of the road.

Michael, I am 100% with you. I just don't think it is a good idea to be able to over ride a dimension value, no matter what the circumstances.

Lew, Lew, How come? If you have measured accurately, why can't you draw it accurately? Why does moving one item throw the other dims off? If it isn't square, you don't have to draw it square.