4hotshoez Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I have a remodel of a 1950's house with a low slope roof shed style with sloped beams (3 1/2" x 11 1/4") that are exposed inside and out. What is the recommended modeling object for these? This is a first for me for something like this in Chief. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I would model it just like it is, the spaced beams would be the rafters, no ceiling finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4hotshoez Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Can I set the beams/Rafters where I want? And I assume I use the "Rafter" button with all of its settings? If so, I will need to do some training on framing rafters. I may have a question latter about the "no ceiling finish" as in the past, I have selected no ceiling in a room and the drywall goes to the bottom of the rafter. This will be a fun and different type of project, which will require me to learn some other things in Chief. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gawdzira Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 You can also move the rafters and correct the framing after it is auto built by CA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 You have to uncheck "Has ceiling" in the roof plane DBX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4hotshoez Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Ok, thanks, I need to do some videos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 See if this helps Todd http://www.screencast.com/t/N0yHWVVaHH 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_Winsor Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I just did a similar roof for an as built duplex plan. In this case the ridge was a massive 4 x 16 beam running the length of the structure and the rafters are 4 x 6's on 48" centers. 2 x 6 tongue & groove for the roof/ceiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_Gavin Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 How are they/you planning on insulating it? OR is it in a perfect climate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Even in San Diego we need to overstack or understack a roof structure or some other foam insulation strategy to get some insulation in those old roofs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 A lot of those I do are filling in between the beams with insulation on the existing. They would rather have the energy savings then the view. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 A lot of those I do are filling in between the beams with insulation on the existing. They would rather have the energy savings then the view. Same here Perry but many times as you know we're required to get R-19 or R-30 in the ceiling leaving very few options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4hotshoez Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 There is a flat roof and a low slope roof build in the 50's with very little thought of insulation, even in our Michigan climate. We will be re-roofing with ridged foam board above the T&G roof deck. I noticed that when I set framing rafters to the proper beam depth that the wall will not build up to the exposed deck, but stops at the rafter depth. Does this fill in later when I do the framing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I might have mentioned a couple of nuances? Looks like Rich has it figured out. Maybe just drag walls up in 3D? Did the vid help Todd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4hotshoez Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Yes Larry. That was great! I started in that direction but had to stop. Just found time to watch the video. It did help answer a few questions. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Todd, if you make the framing sub- fascia's gable and eave 1/16", the exterior surface will go to the top of the beams 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Todd, if you make the framing sub- fascia's gable and eave 1/16", the exterior surface will go to the top of the beams Now that my friend is secret handshake. Thx. However, we do not have the interior finish going up to roof sheathing. This is the kind of stuff I bet CA does not know about, yet this is not uncommon stuff in our neck of the woods. Here is something that bugs me, after I build a roof and frame it, I can not change how the rafter blocking is set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builtright3 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Todd, if you make the framing sub- fascia's gable and eave 1/16", the exterior surface will go to the top of the beams Perry, Do you use sub fascia's or do you take those out? We don't typically frame that way here in CA. Just curious? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I don't ever use sub-fascia's as a real piece of lumber, I just use them to adjust the depth of the overhang rafter but it doesn't work on hips and ridges for some reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Now that my friend is secret handshake. Thx. However, we do not have the interior finish going up to roof sheathing. This is the kind of stuff I bet CA does not know about, yet this is not uncommon stuff in our neck of the woods. Here is something that bugs me, after I build a roof and frame it, I can not change how the rafter blocking is set up. Yep, Framing is a kind of, "Let's try that and see if it works " kind of thing, especially the bearing lines, sometimes they work and sometimes they don't and sometimes just moving them works It bugs me too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Todd, if you make the framing sub- fascia's gable and eave 1/16", the exterior surface will go to the top of the beams Nice tip Perry, I'll immediately start pretending I knew that all along Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 we really should have a setting for that so everyone knows what it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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