Stairs with drywall handrails with cutouts in the walls


redThomes
 Share

Recommended Posts

Use a railing wall set to Follow Stairs.

 

The right side will take more work. This thread may help.

 

 

 

 

Also a good idea to fill out your signature (see mine for an example) by clicking on your user name at the top right of the page, click Account Settings, then Signature on the left.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The key part of your signature is your Chief version -- X9, X10 etc.

 

There are 4 walls used here.

 

ct1.thumb.jpg.e16e709f4356212ebb7c315f6cc3094a.jpg

 

Starting on the left.

 

The red wall is a pony wall shaped in elevation. (see my post further down for more info)  The lower wall is a single layer of drywall that's there to cap the bottom of the wall. Using a Glass House view lets you see the stairs for alignment.

 

The green railing wall is No Room Definition. Draw it off to the side, make sure Follow Stairs in not checked, then center it on the other walls.

 

The blue wall is a normal wall.

 

The orange wall is a railing set to Follow Stairs.

  • Upvote 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, redThomes said:

I can use those features to get cut outs into the wall, but I can't get the cutout to go all the way to the edge of the wall. 
See attached. 

pass through editted.jpg

Try to Change your casing to zero, even if they are off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, solver said:

The key part of your signature is your Chief version -- X9, X10 etc.

 

There are 4 walls used here.

 

ct1.thumb.jpg.e16e709f4356212ebb7c315f6cc3094a.jpg

 

Starting on the left.

 

The red wall is a pony wall shaped in elevation. The lower wall is a single layer of drywall that's there to cap the bottom of the wall. Using a Glass House view lets you see the stairs for alignment.

 

The green railing wall is No Room Definition.

 

The blue wall is a normal wall.

 

The orange wall is a railing set to Follow Stairs.

 

Ahhhh the joy that is Stairwells in CA X10 :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is very helpful! This is probably a stupid question, but even if I set the green wall to 'no room definition' I cannot place it underneath the red wall. 
How were you able to build two walls that occupy the same space? - how can you place the green wall underneath the red wall?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, redThomes said:

How were you able to build two walls that occupy the same space? - how can you place the green wall underneath the red wall?

 

Use the Center tool. Select it then center it on the other walls.

 

You could use Point to Point, Transform/Replicate, or a less accurate hold Control and drag it into position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a followup on the Pony Wall. 

 

When you drag a wall up, the bottom shows framing, this helps hide it, and still gives you framing in the upper wall.

 

You can use the Make Parallel tool on the bottom of the wall to keep the angles in sync.

 

And if you don't need framing, making all these walls solid drywall is the easiest way -- no need for the Pony Wall.

 

 

ct1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, solver said:

The key part of your signature is your Chief version -- X9, X10 etc.

 

There are 4 walls used here.

 

ct1.thumb.jpg.e16e709f4356212ebb7c315f6cc3094a.jpg

 

Starting on the left.

 

The red wall is a pony wall shaped in elevation. The lower wall is a single layer of drywall that's there to cap the bottom of the wall. Using a Glass House view lets you see the stairs for alignment.

.........

 

I want to thank those on this forum who share their ideas,  nice Eric.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow, that sounds complicated....i guess ca didnt do much with stairs in x10?

I want to do a 3 tread winder and have rail open until it reaches the ceiling...i am having a hell of a time to get

the stair to work properly...any thoughts on how to do this?

Winder stair.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, dskogg said:

So Mick not really sure how to do that.  I selected ignore sub section boundries..that didnt work.

How do you get stair sections to not connect?

 

.Plan File?

 

I draw the stairs as 2 or 3 separate sections and then adjust their top and bottom heights, so the "appear" to Join, it may take 3 sections for that Staircase, I usually draw a straight one off on the side so I know what CA thinks is the "best Fit" for Riser height etc.

 

Was it one of your other recent Posts I mentioned this in too recently? I thought I posted a "fixed" plan for someone showing this technique ?? , it does take a bit of messing around but it's the best way we have with these common Stair types I find.

 

Is it an existing Stair ? cos it doesn't appear to meet current Code - as a far as the winders go...

 

M.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi MIck, thanks for reply, doesnt stair sections want to connect when you put them together?

This is an existing house i am trying to get a stair up to an attic space, what part does not meet code?

Trying to find best solution given current space.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a sample plan, i am trying to do a winder and a rail with pickets up to where the railing would meet a wall.

Very difficult to do this any help would be appreciated.  

I do not think ca has done much to improve their stair functionality for a very long time, i wish they could make this better and easier

to use and work.  

stair_winder_plan.zip

winder stair.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fastest way is to build it yourself. If you know exactly how all the framing and finishing will work together, then it's fairly quick to build it manually using p-solids and moldings, and then your plan views will match your section views, and renderings and details etc. You'll only have to do it once (unless the client request changes). I usually leave this step until I'm sure the decisions are close to finalized.

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, robdyck said:

The fastest way is to build it yourself. If you know exactly how all the framing and finishing will work together, then it's fairly quick to build it manually using p-solids and moldings, and then your plan views will match your section views, and renderings and details etc. You'll only have to do it once (unless the client request changes). I usually leave this step until I'm sure the decisions are close to finalized.

 

As crazy as it sounds, I think I'm with you on this.  Time and time again I see guys getting completely bent out of shape trying to get Chief to build stairs like they want when I honestly think it would be much faster to just build from scratch.  Obviously this isn't true for all situations and there's definitely something to be said regarding the ability to deal with changes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

7 hours ago, dskogg said:

Hi MIck, thanks for reply, doesnt stair sections want to connect when you put them together?

This is an existing house i am trying to get a stair up to an attic space, what part does not meet code?

Trying to find best solution given current space.

 

Hi David , as far as I am aware Winders do not meet Code in many jurisdictions now , and even if they do they generally need to be minimum 6" deep 12" off the wall (walking line) or in some areas a minimum of 3" deep at the Wall, (cannot come to a point) however I am not aware of Calgary's Codes. If it is an existing stair then it is likely grandfathered in and wouldn't need changing unless the house if under a Full Gut and Remodel , then they may insist on it meeting new Codes.

 

Looking at your Test Plan , you don't need Winders I believe , there appears to be enough Head Room and there seems to be room in the Attic , so you can give even more clearance over the bottom 2 treads for a feeling or more space. Adding a Skylight over the Landing would help too I think, But depending on the Client it may need to go higher in the Stairwell.

These kinds of stairs take far too much time to do, for what they are , but unfortunately CA still has not done much to the way Auto Stairs build these kind of Stairs, which are in nearly every home these days due to Space and/or height constraints.

 

Yes, I flipped the front door Sidelight :) that may not be possible, but it doesn't change the Stairs..... I also think the Open Stringer is a nicer look for the bottom half, but the Client could save some money by using a  Drywalled Curb Wall instead , in which case why use Spindles at all if the Budget is that tight? , just take it upto 36" and save all the money.
 

12.thumb.PNG.0f85cb65a8ca5a421800f8dd071f6505.PNG11.thumb.PNG.3545bc7d74ae3e897f649d578f474869.PNG13.thumb.PNG.f6e5bd436cc7beb7c1bda067d5f80004.PNG

 

 

M.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for help guys, Mick the roof structure should be 16” deep to allow for insulation and venting, this will reduce headroom some.

 

kind of defeats the purpose of an automated drafting program when I still need to manually draw stairs don’t you think?

 

maybe some simpler questions

1. How to adjust stringer thickness?

2. How to make stringer a different material than riser, because this does happen.

 

I am frustrated that chief continues to give us updates and I continue to spend money on ssa and basic functionality like stairs does not get addressed.. is it just me?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, dskogg said:

Thanks for help guys, Mick the roof structure should be 16” deep to allow for insulation and venting, this will reduce headroom some.

 

kind of defeats the purpose of an automated drafting program when I still need to manually draw stairs don’t you think?

 

maybe some simpler questions

1. How to adjust stringer thickness?

2. How to make stringer a different material than riser, because this does happen.

 

I am frustrated that chief continues to give us updates and I continue to spend money on ssa and basic functionality like stairs does not get addressed.. is it just me?

 

Nope , not just you, more like Everyone :) I almost didn't the last two years but looking at the Cost to upgrade every 2-3 years is the same as paying for SSA so..... I've been waiting for 5 years at least for a Material List overall and in that time all we have gotten are macros to use in the ML, which still isn't dynamic for some reason like Schedules are. Oh and the ability to click on an item in the ML and find it in the Plan. Which with the Obtuse and incorrect Names the ML uses for Items will be handy to find out what the H*** it is referring to  :) ie Fascia is not a Rafter... )

 

Well it didn't say in your plan that it wasn't complete or Correct , ie the Roof Structure / Insul. so I only designed what I could.... but that's doable too by lowering the landing and or starting it further over etc , I don't know what the constraints are but am willing to work on a Paid Assignment for you :)

 

1.) Stringer thickness or depth?  AFAIK you can't change either they are hard-coded , just like the single middle stringer is hardcoded so if you want extras you need to draw your own currently but you can copy the existing Stringer in elevation and make it deeper eg 2x12 instead of 2x10 or thicker eg 3"x10 or 3x12 and place them on top of the Auto-Built ones.

 

2.) Also No ...it is hard-coded into the Auto-Stair Builder but as you can see in the Link above, doing your own you can make individual materials for each piece if desired. Should that be needed, also a No, but it is unfortunately what we have today, Stairs haven't changed much in the last 8-10 years I've been using CA it seems.

 

M.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mick, i can handle any 3d objects to make, just frustrating that i have to.

 

Its great chief hard codes stringer widths...but i do not know of one stair manufacturer that builds stringers

out of 2" wide material as a standard?  The standard as far as i know is dimensional lumber 1.5" thick, and why when

i place a stair against drywall is the stringer only 3/4" of an inch?...still doesn't make sense unless i wanted

to place stair against the framing and then it would still be 1.5" thick...makes no sense.

 

Come on chief it you are going to hardwire items get it right or give us control of these things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

  • Member Statistics

    31398
    Total Members
    9156
    Most Online
    Kbernard
    Newest Member
    Kbernard
    Joined
  • Similar Content

    • By Meltdown00
      Is it possible to model this in CA? (Reasonably close.) How would I do it? 
    • By DRyeHD
      I've tried all dbx setting combinations I can think of, looked through the discussion topics, and on the FB user group - can't find a solution to get my balusters to go down to the stair treads.  I see a few pictures of this type of application but can't figure out how to do it.  I turned the auto-rail off and am using the railing tool.  Any help with this is appreciated.
       

    • By KDsnyder
      I have a building which has a staircase outside of the structure that I'd like to display on the second floor plan. Is there a way to do this without creating walls under the stairs or encasing the area with invisible walls? Thanks!
    • By HCremodel
      I have needed tom place stairs that go through a doorway on multiple occasions, and every time I try it would seem the program glitches and usually breaks the wall or the doorway so you can see the structural materials. The best solution I have found was placing two staircases on either side of the opening, but even that solution isn't perfect. Has anyone found a solution to this?? Am I doing something wrong? I feel like it's pretty common for stairs to go through openings, so it would seem odd to me if chief would not have an option for that.... I attached a picture of what I am encountering. I am using premier x13 beta, but this was also a problem in x12 

    • By CCOTEY
      Hello,
       
      I'm new to chief architect and I'm having trouble with this tricky sloped wall. For some reason this weird cut out that reflects the shape of the stair railings is showing up on the ceiling. If anyone has recommendations on how to fix this please share! Thanks