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Window Header Heights?

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Today we have ceiling heights at 8' (not so much). 9'-4", 10', and more.

So what do you use as Top of Window Height?

In block homes I use a Block module height (divisible by 8")

8' wall get 6' 8"

9'-4" wall get 7'-4" or 8'

10' wall get 8' or (8'-8" rarely)

I usually stop at 8' for headers unless using a transom window or a staked combination of windows.

In frame walls you can do what you want but I usually stay with the above dimensions.

 

What do you use and why?

 

 

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Probably not much use to you, but here in the land of beige boxes everything (that I have dealt with) is either 80" or 84". Every now and then on a custom home with tall ceilings we will do 96" across the front elevation to match a large 96" door.

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Similar to Joey.  Those are standard door heights that most of the builders use.  

Custom built-up door and window units can be done at any height to work with interior and exterior balance.  Basement windows are often up at the sill plate level with headers built into the floor system.

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I use 82.5" for doors and windows unless the design and/or the manufacturer's spec's calls for something different.

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33 minutes ago, joey_martin said:

"Probably not much use to you, but here in the land of beige boxes"

 

Well said...

 

In Indy...everyone wants their home to look like their neighbors home.  :blink:

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Incredible, beige boxed. Wow!

 

Curt 82.5" no mater what ceiling height?  Block wall or frame, all the same?

 

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" I use 82.5" for doors and windows unless the design and/or the manufacturer's spec's calls for something different. "

 

Sometimes a customer will want something non typical so then I will move them accordingly.  If you look at some door manufacturer's specifications for RO's, that's a good place to start from for your header heights.  I have Jeld Wen entry doors and the height of those pre-framed units is about 82" ... which, if using 82.5" for the RO, you have 1/2" of wiggle room for shimming or squaring up if going in an opening that isn't so square (heaven forbid ... but it happens).

 

Generally speaking, I like to keep the sight lines across the windows and doors more or less equal for most conventional home designs.  Anything different (shaped windows; windows in rooms with vaulted and cathedral ceilings, etc.) then you put the RO's where it makes most sense for the design.  For bedroom egress windows, depending on the window style and/or size, you may not have the flexibility to move the RO for your window headers very much.   

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I often see plans with a header mistake.  9' ceilings with 8' doors and they are calling out for a 12" glb header.  They are forgetting about the top plates and the RO requirements.

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I personally take a lot of things into consideration such as:

  • Wall heights
  • Ceiling heights
  • Ceiling shape
  • Room function
  • Which direction the wall is facing (north vs. south)
  • Whether or not there is a notable view from that particular window or wall
  • Whether or not their are privacy concerns
  • Heights of adjacent doors

 

All that being said, my default bottom-of-header height is 81-1/8" from subfloor.  This is based on an 8ft. wall (92-5/8" stud) with a 4x12 header and a 2x6 nailer underneath that header.  It just works out well for the way we frame and matches up pretty dern well with a standard 80" interior door.

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For me it's basically 8' ceilings 80" window and door height, 9" ceiling=96" window and door height. 10' ceilings =96" window and door heights. Interior doors can be 80" high no matter what the ceiling height is. It depends on the room. I never use any rough openings because as the design stage ,I have no idea who the manufacturer is of anything in the plan. and the builder will determine the price, and who that is, varies greatly. Sometimes even after permit, they still don't know. So I leave it generic.

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