MarkMc

Macro pasted into a text box needs to have % at beginning and end so that Chief knows what it is. There may be exceptions I don't know about but this works for what you are after. %$floorarea="\n"% %$temp=owner.internal_area.to_sq_m.round(2)% %$floorarea= $floorarea+ $temp.to_s+" M2"% And Yes, you can get decent precision out of Chief. I keep grid snaps OFF for that, I'm in Imperial so would need decimal. Even with Grid Snaps off things often will snap at 1/32 or 1/16 inch when dragging to resize which can be annoying. I've done work at 1/32 imperial without a problem

Plan views and camera views are very similar in how they work and what they save. Just plan views save defaults as well.

I'd use cabinets to make both. Search forum for stuff I posted on making cabinet doors in Tips or Symbols.

I've had issues with Logitech software with Chief and other 3D programs in the past. I would be able to fix it by rolling back to an earlier version of the Logitech software. Might be worth a shot and/or test completely removing it temporarily to see if the standard OS drivers solve it. (Same for Synaptics). Another thing I'd try if connected by a dongle would be to move the dongle to another usb port. My number pad works better on usb 3 ports despite the dongle being usb 2. Finally if hardwire is an option I'd try that too. Maybe none of the above but any work it might help narrowing down the issue.

Saved camera will remember the placement, rendering type and settings, light set, sun, backdrop, location of camera, zoom and angle. It will also remember what layerset is used. IT will not change what the layerset shows. IF you turn off furniture for "camera view set" then open another camera that uses the camera view set the furniture will be off because it is off in that layerset. IF you want to have a camera that shows furniture and another that does not they need to have different layersets. So instead of just turning the furniture off in the "camera view set" copy the set, name it something like "camera_no_furniture" and use that layerset in the camera view.

A bit more awake now. Changed default lights to 100, set to kitchen light set, trimmed off portion of rope light not in view. Adjusted sun down even more than above, experimented with sun OFF. Ambient set to around 35 instead of 0. So that gets the rope lights to show. While at it merged plan material "lighting white" then replaced with library version having better emissive so you can see it. Here is what rope lights look like with invisible wall between kitchen and living room. Here is after removing invisible wall, Note that the light is hidden behind the pot hanger even though you can now see the rope light since it is emissive.

I set the default light set to 100 lights, then went back to the kitchen light set and made sure things needed were on. Still no rope lights in kitchen but better, did show up in the living room though. Deleted invisible wall between kitchen and living room. Sometimes these cause trouble and with the warning message for the ceiling it's possible but that didn't solve it. The biggest issue was - Decided to split up the rope light as it listed 400 some odd lights. Took a bit to manage to select it as no plan views saved but finally got hold of it and deleted sections not in the view. Also set spacing between lights to 6" and slightly increased the lumens (35? 50?) If I were doing this from scratch I'd place the rope lights in sections to begin with so a light set without a gazillion lights on could be used per room. I often turn these into spots before final size and placement when using under cabinet but test for this situation. Tend to be easier to control and use less resource. Anyway that got the lights on but they are too bright. Need to find a balance between what they are now and getting overblown by the ceiling spots. Changed the material on the fridge since it bothered me. Just used one from the bonus metal materials instead of core. Also purged materials since they were a mess. Might want to increase emissiveness of lighting white. 'I tried to strip it down to a manageable size to post but broke the ceilings and didn't get small enough.

I haven't gotten many, maybe none, sudden closes without error message. I have managed to occasionally get a lock up both with and without error message occasionally. Most of the time it happens when adjusting materials in a 3D view when there is also an elevation open. Have any of you checked system temperatures? Might be worth a look.

After getting the list in html I select all, copy, and paste special into a spreadsheet. Then sort by hotkey. Also add a sheet for "most used" and another to place in groups. I paste links to the original sheet for the command and hotkey so that they all update. In Windows (don't know about Mac since this did not work way back when I had to work on one), once done create a shortcut to the file on the desktop. Open the shortcut and make the shortcut key "ctrl + Alt + "some letter or number" I use 2 -not you only type in the letter or number, ctrl alt is automatic. As long as that is on the desktop or in a folder in the start menu the hotkey will work. Advanced- I have a folder with subfolders in the start menu. One subfolder is called Shorts. I keep all the shortcuts with hotkeys there to avoid creating conflicts. This makes it easy to bring up a list of all the hotkeys when you forget what you need, or check one of the extra sheets for special ones you don't use often, and or take a screen grab (mine are set to always on top) for reference or printing a short list.

Have had this happen occasionally when moving window between monitors with different resolutions. Most often when dragging between. It has always resolved either by closing and restarting Chief of occasionally rebooting Windows. Not sure what the answer for you. I have no idea what OS or GPU you have?? In windows I'd start with Display settings, maybe device manager, If NVidia I'd look at the control pane, other OS or GPU I wouldn't even guess

With that DBX open press F1 and you will see a section that includes this. Select the hyperlink Plot Line Views and see this... So the answer is switch your view type first.

For Gable ends as you describe decrease the countertop overhang by the amount you increase the depth of the cabinet (left hand version) Right had version is similar but a little trickier. If using a 1/16" reveal the counter overhang will not be drawn even with a custom counter. To get an overhang at the wall it has to be at least an 1/8". I also had an incorrect height on the right hand one (sorry in process of redoing all my library cabinets and had thrown them away ) Revised plan attached. Yes I noted - "in rare cases", doubt I've needed it 2 dozen times in 20 years as a full time KD. Of course YMMV. Flush Side Panel EZ_X12.zip

To clarify the behavior is correct for panels placed on the front of a run and for filler overlays, just not side panels. Then again Filler Overlays need a solution similar to the above to get into the schedule properly when those need to be a line item. I don't see a reason to have them go to the trouble to program for both/either/user input when there are workable solutions.'

You can also use the wall specification but beware it will only remove ALL the moldings for the side of wall selected. Kevin's suggestion gives more control allowing you to remove specific moldings..

Attached is plan that has the ez way to add side panels to cabinets that will dimension properly. Don't float a door, configure a cabinet to do what you need. These are configured for 1/16" reveal, make changes to match if different and save them to library. Be sure to set the Accessories/Panels to match your default door and these will comply. The one on the left just gets placed but is set to NOT include that in the schedule. Side panels are considered a modification in most brands. (already have to add mods in a custom OIP field so no big deal) The one on the right would be used if you need to order it loose as a door applied in the field. Then you want it in a schedule and want the size to read correctly. That one needs to be moved out from the wall by the size of reveal used, in this case 1/16", after placement. You can also resize these to function as gable ends that align with the doors when placed on the side of a cabinet, typical in frameless cabinets. This will match what is supplied by 99% of cabinet mfg. In the very rare cases we needed panels bumped out to align with a run of doors they were usually ordered as loose doors and that was a field install (naturally with full custom we could request that done by the maker instead.) I don't personally care if it is changed in Chief but I agree with Mick, it's wrong. Flush Side Panel EZ_X12.zip

Copy a door symbol to library, rename so you know it's for side panel, offset the Y origin 1/16" Use that for "Accessories, Panels" in your default. Alas will have to change all of your existing.

Check "Cap Live Samples" The GPU will continue to work for a while after it first resolves to look decent but it will stop which takes 3-6 minutes on my 3070 longer on the 2070. Time depends on image and settings. IF you adjust the rendering or move the camera it will start again but then settle.

I setup default sets, AKA annotation sets, for dimensioning kitchens. There is Cab All, Cab Base, Cab Wall, Cab Counters and Cab Centers, then for elevations the same group minus counters. NOTE that Cab Centers actually only measure fixture centers but I call it that to keep them in a group. Plan sets are prefixed with "1-", elevation sets with "2-" All the dimensions go to the same layer -cab dimensions. Each set changes a layout set and a dimension default. Cab Base annoset- the layerset only shows base cabinets, floors and walls. Dimension default is set to snap to cabinet sides. Cab Walls - layerset only shows wall cabinets floors and walls, same snaps. Elevation sets are similar just depends if you also want toe kick, counter and molding. For the elevations sets cross section lines is turned off in the layerset. Each dimension default has a different proximity fixed distance, I don't change the reach. That way the base cabinets are set X" outside the wall, Wall cabinets are set X+6" outside the wall and so on. I most often use end to end for the overall dimension. To use this select an annoset (default set), drag using manual dimension tool, switch set and repeat. When done revert to the cabinet all annoset. NOTE if you are dimensioning a wall elevation instead of a back clipped section you have to drag inside the elevation. Once you have a dimension string pull it to the outside of the elevation. It will snap based on the proximity fixed setting so there will be no overlap of dimension strings. Should you need to alter the proximity fixed setting for a string for some reason you need to select Extension/Markers- select Extension 1 You can dimensions a kitchen in minutes with this once you have it set up. NO dragging dimension lines and the only time you need to grab little triangles to change things is when there is a perpendicular wall on the other side that is within the reach setting (easy to avoid). Then you just throw the diamond away. Have been using this since they first gave us annosets. X13 has some great things that can be added to the system for openings and such but the basics remain. FWIW- I never ever use auto fillers, auto blind corners OR partitions (make those from cabinets and store in library or as a style palette)

Change the bounding box for the panel symbol- go back and open the symbol I posted to get an idea. Takes trial and error to get it just right.

I had something like it so adjusted, was a bit further off than I thought (and don't exactly remember what I did first time :) This is in the plan, you can go from there I hope? Gene Rail.zip

Wandered in after a lull, bit off today from dental surgery so.... printed a top view to PDF on archD at 1/4", converted PDF to dwg used default settings and did not check to see if it was set to scale up (sometimes it is) Line weights get a bit heavy in the DWG after conversion. Both included. _206Monarch-3DModel(3).zip

Now here is one with a similar problem to what you have. It should be obvious that this has to do with the roof condition and wall definitions and is understandable.

Without the plan it's hard to say. Roof, foundation, a polyline solid that goes through roof, settings? Did a very quick plan to try to re-create your problem but could not. Attached is a sample plan with a save camera. The saved camera, rendering technique and sun have settings similar to what I use for interior RTRT, at least a good starting point. Note there are no lights in the plan but as I posted this I tested having 3 point light sources in the next room and still no problem. I'd be curious if the issue reproduces with this on your system? PBR test.zip

I copy paste once I have a camera I'm happy with; yes the settings are different but it's a better start. (Be sure you are using light sets)

What version are you on? What video card do you have? What have you tried for settings? Do you have a roof and a foundation? And an enclosed room? (that helps) have you looked at the resources available here? https://www.chiefarchitect.com/search/?default_tab=all&q=physically+based+rendering This one started by Graham is long with lots of information and troubleshooting. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/16430-physically-based-rendering-exteriors/ For X13 look at this one https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/31160-real-time-raytrace-rtrt-tips/ Or find Scott Harris webinar on that. (but also be sure to check off cap live samples) Once you get something that works set it for your default to make life easier and faster next time. In the meantime after checking the available resource, or if you have already, let us know what you're settings are. Might even strip down a plan and post it for advice. Off the top of my head you have too much light but there is no way to tell why from what you posted.'