MarkMc

What others said, though did this with 4 planes, 5 would be better....this should get you started- right side shows the start. Likely need to adjust wall and roof structure defaults first. Adjust overhang until correct, adjust corner board, not much can be done with default wall at top (add solid to cover)

Only one I know of is keep automatic framing off. IF using PBRRT (RTRT) I check cap live samples. Biggest culprit on lappies is the Win Graphic settings which overrides Nvidia Control center nowadays. Odd that there is no difference running two 4K monitors but then I've had laptops that only used the onboard Intel card for external monitors makes me wonder. Yes but well below the recommended 3070/3080 (now Robert running a 3080 is an idunno) Has any monitoring software been used while it's running to check heat etc. (besides Windows built in which I don't find useful)

Just in case (likely one thing TS would suggest) if not already done. Since it is a laptop make sure that all Chief executable files for 14 are set to high performance in Windows Graphic settings. Was not connected to extra monitors. I just tested a few files on my laptop which has a 2070S (comparable to the RTX 4000). I had two plans, one layout, two elevations, and two renderings (one PBR RT, other standard) open. Layout and one file were originally X13 (plan 33MB) other was 14 but only 13 MB. Tested all views- Opened DBXs, adjusted some things, moved some, manipulated cameras Usable just not snappy which is about what I'd expect. The smaller file was a tad faster. In the end do what Dermot said :)

More than a few changes since then. First image shows one way to add an accessory as a pull out and have it go into that column for a schedule-for doors objects added from library as shelves work, as do those added to the back of a door. Second Image is how to add text for ANY modification using a "custom object information field" to go it into a schedule. Either or both of these can be done quickly by making a style palette from the cabinet and adding to library. (which requires a bit more info, I may put something together on that in July or August depending on work)

A Ryan says easiest is to just specify but if you really must have it in 3D then... It can be done with two cabinets on top of each other. Each is on a separate layer=one for it closed and one for it open. Change layers in 3D to show both ways. For the open cabinet I put the pocket doors in the back with a custom door symbol. I also included the custom partitions in the back (suggested for install) I don't include the hardware since using partions but do make the spacing of the opening according to hardware specs.. Attached example grabbed from previous job but saved in X14. Sorry I didn't check your sig first- either download 14 or here are the setting for the flipper door placed in the back. Basically set it 1/4" shorter than the opening, raise Z origin by 1/8", set depth to extend out from the cabinet sides an inch (or whatever-this cabinet is 21" deep)-lock depth and height in sizing tab by setting stretch planes OUTSIDE the symbol bounding box. Also if using a partition and having it set in an opening in the front then lock the width also (easier than adding more openings to the back IMO. And here are the dbx face settings for the front and back of the open cabinet Flipper.zip

Your solution was my first thought and likely what I would do if it were just one cabniet (well second, first thought was don't) In any case thought that I would check to see if an adjusted symbol has the same problem and it does not. Copy symbol to library, rename, rotate the symbol and change origin. Then there is no need to use the rotate handle option. (but you knew that anyway I'd guess this is a bug and no one checked to see if this was a problem since this is the first time I've ever seen cup handles done vertically.

I've been doing this for as long as I can remember (v5 or 6?) Yes it is global for the plan. I have saved fillers with panels as Kbird does but to place standard fillers I use a hotkey. When things are settled just click in the space. They autosize to fit so no need to fuss with them. If they are interfering with resizing a cabinet delete (usually don't but life is easier deleting them), resize cabinet (S) and type the shortcut again. Why do this? They end up in a cabinet schedule to make sure that they get ordered. The temporary dimension says away from the wall show (as Kbird) when clicking the cabinet. I never get little spaces between cabinets that don't belong there as I see from clients using auto fillers. I'm a weiner..

Can't make a new cabinet symbol and no need to use blocks IMO. Just turn off automatic fillers? It's off by default in ALL of my templates except the OOB ones.

Neither have I but they are a good place to check things. I rebuild templates almost every version though. I get templates from clients that are IMO ancient and create problems so we rebuild them (and usually fix )

How old is the template your using? It works using the OOB residential template and one I slightly adjusted, also works using the first X13 template I grabbed to test in 14. OOBa 13 template

Since you can't see the wall in 3D AND Kbird1 found that the wall you used is made with Opening No Material what I think is going on is that you used the drop down menu for wall type and just selected a demo wall. That is an OOB wall (not sure why we have it any longer) In the video Scott shows makeing a new interior weall type. I don't think you did that or if you did you did not do it the way he shows (in the video shortly after 19 1/2 minutes) Image shows 3 types of walls OOB demo from drop down, hatch wall, and new interior wall type. The OOB wall does not show in 3D, wall hatching does not show a different color in 3D, new interior wall does both NOTE- if you use wall hatching with a glass house view for a 3D reference none of the types will show a color; so only matters if you want to see the color in the as built model not in the reference display. Demo Walls.zip

Mick that is the default OOB demo walls, they are placed on the walls normal layer by Default. I don't use them but guess some folks do, better than they once were where the setting just made them invisible leading to strips in the flooring.

Post plan files not DWG. It sounds like your changed the wall type to a demo wall? The demo wall IS invisible in 3D, the point being you don't want to see it in the new build. As an alternative you could use a different layer for those BUT that will leave it's footprint in the floor finish layer if you turn it off. For As Built- what many of us do it have one plan that is the as built, hatch the walls to be removed using the hatch wall tool. Then have a second plan for the new work and use a reference display to show the As built as an underlay. The ref display is NOT select-able while in the new plan. The demo wall will not show in the 3D view of the new plan BUT you can also reference the As built plan in 3D in which case those walls will show. Sample pic and zipped file added As built plus.zip

Cool I wanna see that- (aren't roof planes Juntu thing?)

didn't do the corner braces or the extra top horizontals, does have the irrigation. Nor did I do dimension drawings but easy enough since everything is a cabinet door, could also pull sizes with a macro into a schedule or could get as components in ML @rgardner just for you used cabinets-cinder blocks started as cabinet then converted. otherwise one molding line and a few garden beds.

Just proof of concept in a few minutes that I'm willing to keep playing along with this. Actually if I need that I might actually do it with cabinets :)

Just banged that out too busy to futz much today AND don't really think that is the ideal application even for the so-called cabinet guy BTW- don't see any examples from you up here

Ditto, I often post them but in this case thought it best not to. First off there are no specs for what size members are wanted-and no mater what is used that needs to be decided. FWIW- messed with pony wall, also messed with railing.( may have been a problem because of the funny wall type from another job that I started with) But in any case the information needed for a ML can be added into the components but that is certainly a little advanced and given the size of the project I'd count or at most use a schedule with some OIP field. ? you can make things from a cabinet- heck why didn't I think of that?? Posted Garden.zip

I tend to disagree with that. I do agree that counting parts make the most sense in this case. OTOH Kbird's version will give a material list, mine could generate a schedule with parts and a ML with some effort. Either could use varied member sizes and change those quickly globally if desired. Chief won't give you 3D dimensions (I'm not sold on them have on rare occasion sent Chief to a 3D PDF) Chief doesn't break a sweat with dimensioned plans or elevations which is the way all the carpenters I've met understand things. Could it be a challenge to a new user- most likely. Then again, I had Chief for a month and had to produce a complete house - was not pretty, was not easy, but got done. More importantly if you are going to learn to use the program the learn to use the program. Long ago I decided to learn to make anything and everything in Chief -took a while but has been worth the effort.

I used a fence with custom panels and custom door. No good for material list (at least I'd do what Gene said, not like there's a lot there)

two ways to do that. (Not am using a framed cabinet, if you want frameless set the separation to 3/4") 1- make a cabinet that is just a drawer with no toe kick and set the top height to match the other cabinets.-easiest to make and to change drawer height, reads properly in a cabinet schedule. 2-make cabinet with no toe kick, change front left and right separation to 0", change door section to an opening with no shelves. Set drawer height to suit. 2a-Split Drawer vertically, move the separation to the left, change the right drawer to a separation and set width to default (click the wrench) 2b- go to left, match front, then changed that to custom face and set the drawer to be a blank area...repeat for back and other side. Method 2 has the advantage of being easier to move, but disadvantages are much harder to make, harder to change drawer height, shows incorrectly in a cabinet schedule and more work. That said it might be worth doing this once for the sake of learning Plan with both in it attached. Desks.zip

I've used the Task ones and Outwater, task cost a spec more but more options. I only use Hafele Loox lights; and prefer (as do all the installers I deal with) linkable sections with wires that snap connect instead of adding light strip to extrusions in the field (in which case the angle in front needs to be made as part of the light rail) I like having the back extended down for cleaner tile install. Run tile and grout or caulk to flat, and the APTs are 1-1/2 instead of 1-1/4. Tile first with electric tails then install the strips. Also I set bottom recess to 3/4" 1 max too (many woman are shorter and every bit helps with access). Personally I don't like the strips at the back in kitchens, only offices, only use if client which is also why I prefer the drop at back .....but hey that's what makes the world go around

Match Properties Clear all then select layer, floor and height (unless you did something not default) Open DBX, material tab, change color

@GeneDavis It occurred to me that if I was doing lighting reveals the way you are that I would do a few things differently. In most cases you need an end of run cabinet I've run into issues with backsplash tile when the back height doesn't match the end of run height- more so when using angled outlet strips at the back. So I would do something like this. Attached is plan with door drops below floor 1-1/4", cabinet height is correct for schedule and has back same length as a finished side, and end of run cabinets. Since none of these work well based on general defaults I would make 4 Style Palettes (SPs) for this. Set SP to copy face configuration and nothing else. Then make: one for single door end, one for single door middle of the run, one for double door end, and a new one for double door middle of run. Then would just place cabinets using keyboard, size them as needed, hit them with SPs when done with that. Reflect as needed to swap ends or single door cabinets. NOTE -I have no idea why the reveal at the bottom has to be set far greater than the opening at the bottom. Worked it out with split views. Cabinet MC.zip

Split the door, make one a left and the other a right, change the separation to an opening, set to 1/8, equalize layout horizontal. Chief should really make that 1/8 when reveal is set to 1/16 as per standard from MFG. Otherwise there is no adjustment available to the doors. In the meantime use the attached Style Palette on any wall cabinet with double doors that doesn't have a center stile. Cabinet I posted has 1/8 top and 1/16 sides- ex since X13, prior you needed to use blank areas SP eigth btwn.calibz