MarkMc

Since you can't see the wall in 3D AND Kbird1 found that the wall you used is made with Opening No Material what I think is going on is that you used the drop down menu for wall type and just selected a demo wall. That is an OOB wall (not sure why we have it any longer) In the video Scott shows makeing a new interior weall type. I don't think you did that or if you did you did not do it the way he shows (in the video shortly after 19 1/2 minutes) Image shows 3 types of walls OOB demo from drop down, hatch wall, and new interior wall type. The OOB wall does not show in 3D, wall hatching does not show a different color in 3D, new interior wall does both NOTE- if you use wall hatching with a glass house view for a 3D reference none of the types will show a color; so only matters if you want to see the color in the as built model not in the reference display. Demo Walls.zip

Mick that is the default OOB demo walls, they are placed on the walls normal layer by Default. I don't use them but guess some folks do, better than they once were where the setting just made them invisible leading to strips in the flooring.

Post plan files not DWG. It sounds like your changed the wall type to a demo wall? The demo wall IS invisible in 3D, the point being you don't want to see it in the new build. As an alternative you could use a different layer for those BUT that will leave it's footprint in the floor finish layer if you turn it off. For As Built- what many of us do it have one plan that is the as built, hatch the walls to be removed using the hatch wall tool. Then have a second plan for the new work and use a reference display to show the As built as an underlay. The ref display is NOT select-able while in the new plan. The demo wall will not show in the 3D view of the new plan BUT you can also reference the As built plan in 3D in which case those walls will show. Sample pic and zipped file added As built plus.zip

Cool I wanna see that- (aren't roof planes Juntu thing?)

didn't do the corner braces or the extra top horizontals, does have the irrigation. Nor did I do dimension drawings but easy enough since everything is a cabinet door, could also pull sizes with a macro into a schedule or could get as components in ML @rgardner just for you used cabinets-cinder blocks started as cabinet then converted. otherwise one molding line and a few garden beds.

Just proof of concept in a few minutes that I'm willing to keep playing along with this. Actually if I need that I might actually do it with cabinets :)

Just banged that out too busy to futz much today AND don't really think that is the ideal application even for the so-called cabinet guy BTW- don't see any examples from you up here

Ditto, I often post them but in this case thought it best not to. First off there are no specs for what size members are wanted-and no mater what is used that needs to be decided. FWIW- messed with pony wall, also messed with railing.( may have been a problem because of the funny wall type from another job that I started with) But in any case the information needed for a ML can be added into the components but that is certainly a little advanced and given the size of the project I'd count or at most use a schedule with some OIP field. ? you can make things from a cabinet- heck why didn't I think of that?? Posted Garden.zip

I tend to disagree with that. I do agree that counting parts make the most sense in this case. OTOH Kbird's version will give a material list, mine could generate a schedule with parts and a ML with some effort. Either could use varied member sizes and change those quickly globally if desired. Chief won't give you 3D dimensions (I'm not sold on them have on rare occasion sent Chief to a 3D PDF) Chief doesn't break a sweat with dimensioned plans or elevations which is the way all the carpenters I've met understand things. Could it be a challenge to a new user- most likely. Then again, I had Chief for a month and had to produce a complete house - was not pretty, was not easy, but got done. More importantly if you are going to learn to use the program the learn to use the program. Long ago I decided to learn to make anything and everything in Chief -took a while but has been worth the effort.

I used a fence with custom panels and custom door. No good for material list (at least I'd do what Gene said, not like there's a lot there)

two ways to do that. (Not am using a framed cabinet, if you want frameless set the separation to 3/4") 1- make a cabinet that is just a drawer with no toe kick and set the top height to match the other cabinets.-easiest to make and to change drawer height, reads properly in a cabinet schedule. 2-make cabinet with no toe kick, change front left and right separation to 0", change door section to an opening with no shelves. Set drawer height to suit. 2a-Split Drawer vertically, move the separation to the left, change the right drawer to a separation and set width to default (click the wrench) 2b- go to left, match front, then changed that to custom face and set the drawer to be a blank area...repeat for back and other side. Method 2 has the advantage of being easier to move, but disadvantages are much harder to make, harder to change drawer height, shows incorrectly in a cabinet schedule and more work. That said it might be worth doing this once for the sake of learning Plan with both in it attached. Desks.zip

I've used the Task ones and Outwater, task cost a spec more but more options. I only use Hafele Loox lights; and prefer (as do all the installers I deal with) linkable sections with wires that snap connect instead of adding light strip to extrusions in the field (in which case the angle in front needs to be made as part of the light rail) I like having the back extended down for cleaner tile install. Run tile and grout or caulk to flat, and the APTs are 1-1/2 instead of 1-1/4. Tile first with electric tails then install the strips. Also I set bottom recess to 3/4" 1 max too (many woman are shorter and every bit helps with access). Personally I don't like the strips at the back in kitchens, only offices, only use if client which is also why I prefer the drop at back .....but hey that's what makes the world go around

Match Properties Clear all then select layer, floor and height (unless you did something not default) Open DBX, material tab, change color

@GeneDavis It occurred to me that if I was doing lighting reveals the way you are that I would do a few things differently. In most cases you need an end of run cabinet I've run into issues with backsplash tile when the back height doesn't match the end of run height- more so when using angled outlet strips at the back. So I would do something like this. Attached is plan with door drops below floor 1-1/4", cabinet height is correct for schedule and has back same length as a finished side, and end of run cabinets. Since none of these work well based on general defaults I would make 4 Style Palettes (SPs) for this. Set SP to copy face configuration and nothing else. Then make: one for single door end, one for single door middle of the run, one for double door end, and a new one for double door middle of run. Then would just place cabinets using keyboard, size them as needed, hit them with SPs when done with that. Reflect as needed to swap ends or single door cabinets. NOTE -I have no idea why the reveal at the bottom has to be set far greater than the opening at the bottom. Worked it out with split views. Cabinet MC.zip

Split the door, make one a left and the other a right, change the separation to an opening, set to 1/8, equalize layout horizontal. Chief should really make that 1/8 when reveal is set to 1/16 as per standard from MFG. Otherwise there is no adjustment available to the doors. In the meantime use the attached Style Palette on any wall cabinet with double doors that doesn't have a center stile. Cabinet I posted has 1/8 top and 1/16 sides- ex since X13, prior you needed to use blank areas SP eigth btwn.calibz

Is this what you're after? cabinet.zip

For a while on another machine I was having a problem installing Chief from the download folder. If I copied the MSI file to the windows desktop it would work. Never figured out the problem, suspect it was a Win issue, but didn't care once I got it to work. Worth a try.

The pattern is available in Bonus Library Tile Basics Go to the linked blog post to get and see how to work with that in Substance Player

Similar to Chopsaws, set first window to desired color, unchecked fit frame to wall (I made it 3" but could be 0 same as Chops), copy paste in place, change to pass through with frame fits wall then paint- Only difference is no p-solids needed. Block them if you need more than one, bit tricky to mull .

Follow the directions given above and let us know how you did.

Here are the settings that get what you are after- ASSUMING that you made those equal to being with either with standard splitting or using the equalize button. NOTE that GRID SNAPS ARE OFF. Tool used is Manual dimensions ; click just to the side of cabinet and drag across holding button down. There are cases where increasing smallest fraction UP helps but I would not bother in this case. Bear in mind that the dimension that matters is the overall dimension, that;s what the person making the cabinet will use, and the one that ensures it fits properly in the space. The proper way to dimension the door openings on this would be to use "Eq." or to simply call out "4 equal doors" To do that reduce the text size for that dimension string, place a text box "Eq" set size to cover over the first dimension, then multiple copy to cover the others. Here I left the last dime exposed. Finally listen to the others and fill out a signature please.

Used first SU file I could dig up on mine, bit of fun as it turns out. Importing or creating light symbol. First select as Electric and always Advanced Options; then Options Panel-check light for a chandelier or my cave light select ceiling I find it useful to rename parts of symbols so I can understand what it is in the future, at the same time change the materials to standard library materials. To make renaming parts simpler I start by selecting an obvious color for the item, like berry, rename it, select correct material and move to next. It's a good idea to double check the Name and check the Origin and orientation at this time (look in help for symbols) In this case the object was flipped vertically and origin set to 0 so it would be on ceiling. Then click OK and item should now be in your library and already selected for placement. IF you selected Electric, and Light at the beginning there should be a light data panel with one light already in place. To make changes here please check the help or user manual PDF. Finish light in room with the default single light in it. I kinda like it, wonder if I can get one (oh and forgot- please fill out your signature with software version and machine info since that can help in the future- there's info floating around for that and likely someone will chime in)

That is odd. I decided to check again on mine, only 1 4k montior with a pair of 2ks. Base GPU memory used is 7.36% in X13 and 8% in 14. Opened two plans, two elevations, and two RTRT cameras, then exported one camera at 600 DPI. I regularly see power and voltage limits but never memory. This has been the case for every version I've ever checked. Max GPU memory used is 38.9 for X13 and 42.7% for X14. Memory controleer load runs around 64%. Maximum GPU memory used is 3498 MB and system memory is 5426 MB. I wonder why you are having memory issues but I don't think it's Chief.

Made this, open plan and learn how. Trellis.zip

I liked 3D reference before, love it now. Vector makes it usable in elevations. Plus 1 to Even though he couldn't solve the issue I brought up with it but then I'm using it for a purpose not originally intended.