MarkMc

I use layersets that have Rooms locked when doing interior dimensions. If you are using premier those can be tied to annotation sets at the same time which solves other dimension issues.

all at once is easy-material painter in object mode works UNLESS you have changed from the door/drawer to one that is not using the default. Thought you just wanted the gables, that is tricky.

It would be nice to have simple control over the gables- and there are times where it can be really annoying that panels and drawer fronts use the same material. BTW I more often see different finish on doors and drawer than the entire box so had never dealt with this but here ya go. Only spent a few minutes on this but should get you going I hope. What is the best way to get where you want really depends on what type of cabinet construction you are using. The side panels were selected from the library NOT the drop down list. Used material painter in component mode to change colors. For inset you would need to get rid of the standard toe, float the cabinet up and add a separate one. For full overlay I'd just paint the side and be done with it as close enough.

Post the plan

I'm game if I go. Let you know.

Notfornuttin- The installers I know would have a fit if I gave them a cabinet that was supposed to fit flush into that corner. Sure you can add scribes to each side but it's still the hard way. Don't know which way you are looking at placing this cabinet (s) ? IRL If I wanted storage on both walls then I'd be using two cabinets with a filler (or two which is what I'd order). The loss of storage is tiny, costs less and happy installer. If just one wall then a cabinet and a panel that can be scribed to the wall.

Angle front cabinet- blank front, door on one side-rotate, measure to fit.

Use annotation sets (anno sets). Each can have it's own dimension defaults, which in turn can have different "locate objects" and be associated with a layer set. For instance- new framing-locates framing and is on appropriate layer, cabinets wall-locates wall cabinets, surface, and casings-the layer set hides base cabinet and fixtures so does not dimension to those..like that. They are complicated to set up, a bit to learn, but very powerful. Annosets have other uses as well. Worth the effort.

For cabinets -if you don't like the save as then for completely different configuration options are- Move them a memorable distance away-50ft, 80ft...blocking is optional. Alternative is to block the cabinet grouping and add to the user library. I create a project specific folder. Do that for each version. Then block the current view and replace from library, pick one of your other blocks. You can fool Chief into placing objects in the same place first set of cabinets-change to a new layer-cabinets 2- block, move 100 inches away Create second cabinets- layer cabinets 3- move 200 inche Third cabinets-on cabinet layer Use transform replicate to move the blocks back in place. They will then be where they started with all cabinets one on top of the other-just hide layers. Finally if it is just finish and style along with trim-place a cabinets with each style off to the side- then can replace finishes on existing cabinets by changing defaults OR object painter which is usually saver.

Draw profile of half in elevation with pline solid, move it so that the straight edge is at absolute 0, 0. Convert to solid, explode to faces, delete the faces you don't want (keep the one that is at 0,0) ; select it, revolve the object around the Z axis-180 degrees. Glenn has a video on here somewhere-that's how I managed these.

Should read foot per joint, not cut.

For kitchen crown I use ol length, divided by 12, round up, plus one foot for every cut. Total divided by lengths available (8,10 ft) rounded up. Add one depending on installer. Chief doesn't figure it out.

Is your material defined as "tile"? sounds like it. Define material as "area", placed on psolid, copied, works.

How many other lights are on in total? Video card has a limit in standard view, but not in ray trace.

You may not have custom and there may not be a lock but you do have what you need based on the screenshot you provided. Split it, make one side blank, turn OFF automatic blind corners

I've seen this but can't currently reproduce it. FWIW I don't use automatic blind corners (or automatic fillers), don't like how they display or the inconsistencies. To get a blind that you can control, front/side/back tab; select custom face for front and split the parent layout vertically. Make the blind a blank area and lock that width- store in user library for the future.

Might make a "molding symbols" , as opposed to "molding profile". Attached image uses both. Would still need a symbol for the ends and as JC pointed out elsewhere seperate millwork symbols to use as treatments on the windows. I put appliques on the front here. I would advise against that, will slog the system down. Just use a picture or simple graphic where needed. This was made from corbels found in the library-about 15 minutes-didn't worry about much accuracy, but you get the idea.

Where do you want the information to show up in your final drawings? If you want it in the schedule then this can work. I'm most often placing that kind of information into a separate columns in the schedule. One for mods and accessories, the other for sides. Both those columns are for user defined sub categories. User defined sub categories will be persistent, not change if the cabinet itself is altered. The downside is that the text must be entered in the "components list" for the cabinet (set up a keyboard shortcut to get at the components list. To ease the pain I save some cabinets for each brand in my user library. Most are there to allow for specific labels and face configurations and the appropriate label but I keep one standard base and one standard wall cabinet there as well. The standards just eliminate the extra steps of having to add those user defined sub categories to each cabinet that needs it. In your case I'd be saving one plain wall and one that had "toned bottom" already added. Again this will be persistent so you can edit the cabinet all you want. Attached a pic showing the steps and a quick plan with the results (note I normally place the cabinet schedule in a CAD detail and keep it as part of each template) This is all thanks to Yoda up there... Edited to add- to make all this worth the trouble use it for all cabinet mods, be sure to use either a comma or a semi colon between each mod (we use semi colons most often) You can keep the codes themselves in a spreadsheet or table somewhere to copy from THEN Once your schedule is complete- select it and then copy. I often leave out columns that I won't need for my order Then open a spreadsheet and use "paste special" unformatted text. When the DBX opens select either comma or semi colon as seperators DO NOT select merge delimiters. You can now drag copy the codes to cells in a spreadsheet order, or to a window in an online ordering system (works for one of the ones I use) and in some cases if you still use 2020 for ordering can be dragged into the lower window there to access the mod.

Forgot to mention-make a new layerset to go with that where that layer is off, so that your other views don't get messed up, may want a third layerset for the other wall elevation

Put the cabinets from the second wall on another layer and hide that layer.

Yeah it is. Got me thinking though. The stickies I use will also take images, like screen shots, and can be "stored" for later use. Anyway thought I remembered something about the eyedropper. It is a Windows tool, and can grab a color from anywhere on the screen, not just in Chief. So I tried a stored screenshot of a CA DBX and grabbed the color from that- works. Stickies I use are from http://www.zhornsoftware.co.uk/. Free though I've been using them so long (since 95 I think) I finally sent them some money. I also use it to store text strings, and have one Store folder for things from this forum that I want to find quickly.

Yes others are like that, I believe it's a windows thing. Way I deal with it is to copy the RGB, Hue, Saturation, and Luminance to a sticky note kept always on top. Then whey you start a new color, where you can pick a new box, type those in. The other way is to use the eyedropper at the bottom left after selecting a box-you get a preview so can be in the ball park as a stating point. Note it doesn't always go into the box you pick but at least it doesn't over write your first one.

Either box construction tab, separation- changes all default separations. Or Front, sides back, change front to custom.

I usually do it in TurboCad first- some blocks won't but not usually important. In Cheif- select one line, then "ctrl + J"; click layer in the box, once all are selected,"ctrl + E" (open object) , change color to black (not by layer)

Same here