MarkMc

Chopsaw, I missed your post at first since this thread is marked solved. Might start fresh and include pictures or plan. I can't tell exactly what the issue is.

I used "treatments " they are custom millwork symbols. Offset is controlled by the symbol origin which takes some trial and error (at least for me).

Gave it a shot as millwork treatment. Still needs some work but I had something like it (just learned this month Hope it helps. Symbols in plan

Cheryl C was doing some virtual staging at one point, maybe she'll drop by.

I think that the way to get there is making a single brick as a molding symbol then using that on a curved 3d pline, add a second row with offset. Once you have it looking right convert to a millwork symbol and use it as a window treatment- will have to muck around with symbol origin though.. Attached is a start- to make it look good I'd figure out the angle for the sides of the brick before converting the solid to a molding symbol. Currently working on a job where I had to use the window treatment thing a lot so that's what I was thinking. Actually guess you wouldn't want to add the angle to the brick, only the mortar in the new symbol. brick arch.plan

If you edit the size of the object the Description in the components list reverts to base cabinet-have to use a user defined sub-category for it not to change on edit. You taught me this work around Joe.

FWIW-i use molding lines exclusively- easier to copy from plan to plan, easy to have variations set on separate layers to show clients options, easier to adjust.

Yeah, I hate using traditional overlay hacks for an number of reasons-like I miss thing Had a thought and checked and the "blank area" hack works with standard full overlay-so cabinet can still be used to get openings for maker.

Can do that with a normal cathedral, just looks odd because the one wall is 45.

easier to do than explain-plan attached, open the cabinet DBX, look at contruction and face items. Key is getting a blank area instead of a vertical partition, need to use traditional overlay and adjust the overlap but also works for inset.

1- I've just started to look into these-started with Wikipedia-has some external links and a web search. 2-you need to edit the material- depending on if material region-open, structure, edit-select material, plan material, copy, edit. You can then change the grout color there under "lines" 3- I think because they are photos- I did manage to import a toaster oven once with the photo of the front intact- don't remember how, likely was accidental, deleted it. Not something I fuss with.

We end up with lots of save as variations- we place a text with macro inserted for file name-helps avoid confusion down the line. Elevations and when linking mulitple plans will place macro in the view label to identify the file. Just have to remember to get rid of them before printing.

No you can't specify what gets and stays clipped and what does not-that does at times present problems BUT based on your description I think you just need to make sure that the cabinets are actually butted together. Clip exposed corners and not back or sides that meet other cabinets is CA standard behavior.

Thanks David. 1-I got something using slabs, I think I can make the rest look right. Don't think I could have gotten it to work without them-once I started pulling more dimension from the front elevation I discovered that the balcony is thicker than the floor-at least from the front. I'll have to go find a vid or something to understand what the automatic walls were doing, kept attaching to the railings and sinking the side ones down into the slab. Finally added room dividers around 2-Had already tried several custom molding profiles for the sill. Made a symbol for the bottom sill and placed it as a treatment, first floor is better, still not quite right on the second floor but think the detail isn't either. 3-Peachy- one of my favorite words I don't mind things being a bear if I learn how things work when I'm done-in this case not so much-just beat it with a hammer. Thanks for the encouragement.

This is another fine mess you got us into ...really out of my depth on this. I only have to make this all look correct- no condocs from it. Still I'd like to do as much properly as I can and I'm just a GCS. (glorified cabinet salesman) 1-Balcony over porch, railings and such? Attached pic of elevation I need to get to, pic of what I have, along with plan in a zip. I messed with railings on the balcony for a long time and finally gave up trying to get the uneven newel spacing and having the floor in the right place, or the ceiling of the porch in the right place, or a roof that I floated in there. and a few other things. Thought I'd learn how to do this-hah. So finally used invisible walls, placed the newel symbols manually, then got some railings in there (I know they don't meet the newels properly) So then I went to use molding plines to get the facia around the top of the porch, Not going to work with what I have going here. Would really like to know how to properly do this please? 2-While at it-also attached are some pics for the second floor windows. In one case I can get the shutters to properly meet the window frame but then the sill is wrong. Can't find a way to change the material on the bottom of the window to match without changing the rest. In the other case I have the correct limestone sill but then the shutters are floated on the stone face. I settled on the former. Just wondering if there was another option? 3-For the limestone lintels and for the limestone surround on the center window I used "Treatment-exterior millwork above casint" I'm happy enough with the results (short of z fighting which I can likely fix), but it was a bit of a bear to do-is there a better way? Still working on the rest,was given the file-so far changed floor spec, and wall definitions and threw away the foundation. Will go after the interior once I get the rest setteld. TIA

Like Michael I use custom counters. I have an annotation set for just counters which takes care of the dimensions as well as the layers.Grabbed a really small job for a sample.

Just figured that out. Force of habit. I use blocks in every project just to get things (corbels,hoods,partitions,molding..) into the cabinet schedule. So automatically did that. Only ever blocked cabinets in an attempt to get a second cabinet schedule.

Plan here

Joe, that is exactly the problem. Those are three identical cabinets, 2 along the X axis, one along th Y axis. When you block them and include the block in the schedule Chief reads the dimensions based on the axis and not the cabinet. Try it.

Blocking cabinets screws up the dimensions in the schedule, if that doesn't matter then it works.

Agreed, same problem automatic behavior creates with clipped corners. For this project, where every cabinet has it, with the program as it is now, the offset symbol can be used in the cabinet defaults AND cabinets will all read correctly in the schedule. Just doesn't work if only "some" cabinets have it.

Scott-Z fighting, yeah I run into that on fridge cabinets and some mud room seats that have open bottoms. Doesn't show up in rendered view or RT. It's a Chief thing-annoying- wish it would go away but have not even requested that. Sometimes for clients I make it a tad taller and then set it down to the floor but then have to change it for schedules. To control the depth of the toe space you have to adjust the Y origin in the symbol used for that. Well -for me ordering is always an issue My goal is always to have the model as it would be IRL- be it from the factory or in the field, same as you guys just at a different scale with stuff you don't usually have to worry about. There are a lot of things I feel important that only apply to my end of things. (showing fillers or extended stiles as 3/4" thick instead of full depth..) I've done something like your method IRL when using frameless cabinets, a sort of mock inset. Some companies offer parts (pilasters) specifically for that purpose. Cost of goods and the install gets pricey. IRL it makes the most sense if the pilasters are decorative, not flat. In that case in CA, I'd use a skinny cabinet, adjusted depth, blank front. Fillers leave the toe area completely open. Decorative faces get challenging so would make a symbol for those. OTOH, once upon a time that is exactly what I would have done, until I discovered fooling with symbol origins to get Chief to do what I wanted. Changing symbol origins for doors and drawers starts to allow you to draw "lipped" doors and drawers, and integrated handles on doors- also used it to fake beaded inset (rarely, too much work)

Brackets at the top would have to be added individually- do the molding how you wish- I'd use a wide top rail on the cabinets. I always use molding plines rather than adding molding to the cabinet. The extended flat at the top is easy and better controlled with plines. As to the base cabinets-to me those are inset cabinets with "side and stile extended down"-that is how I'd order them. To do that in cabinet DBX eliminate toe-0" height and 0" depth, for the front add a false drawer at the bottom whatever height you want (I used 4" here) delete the separation at the bottom, The key then is for that drawer use a custom drawer symbols that has the "Y" origin offset. The examples to the right have a simple slab drawer that has been offset. The one on the left has a custom symbol created for the purpose-this cleans up the inside edge of the toe kick but note that IRL that would have to be done in the field. edited to add poic from second catalog- a little clearer

I've noticed all you indicate regarding Photon Mapping. I really would like it to be a tad less soft- something between PM and none... Interesting the difference with in cabinet lights (per our other chat) Time-I find the setup more an issue than run time. When I need RT's (occasional) After setup and checking, I stack a bunch from a few views, run each with a 2-3 saved settings-with a limit to passes (20)-and go to bed The examples posted were all "quick" settings 1-3 passes, nothing for real.

Look up "concentric" in help or user manual. Should -maybe give you way. Alternative is to use circles as guides, or arcs and lines that are then converted to closed polyline, then to counter.