robdyck

Definitely a difference between the materials lsit and the walls components.

It covers the floor system at the bottom.

And how weird is this...that's exactly what I'm doing right now!

Adjust the offset for the gutter. Then you can turn gutters on/off on a per edge basis.

@Renerabbitt Thanks Rene, I appreciate the advice. Open to last panel will do just fine until the weekend! Then I'll take a look at a macro recorder.

Is there a way to assign a hot key to go straight to the label text of an object after single clicking on the object? I use a lot of labels, and I'd lick a hot key that goes to the label and highlights the existing text so its instantly ready for new text to be entered.

The simplest way to check headroom: Open stairs, set railing to 80" (or per your building code). Generate a section view. Once the structure is ok, you can reset the railing back to its proper height.

You really need at least 16" depth in order to fit any main ducting (plenums, not branch lines) between the webs / chords. So 16 risers will just work (in Canada) with a 9' ceiling (109 1/8 + 16 3/4 = 125 7/8 / 16 = 7 7/8). I used to work with a builder who insisted on using 14" floor trusses and there were always problems with fitting any ducting, except for where duct chases were built into the truss. Many truss suppliers will have a chart or diagram indicating the rectangle and round duct size that will fit base on the truss depth. Keep in mind that if this type of structure is over an attached garage, you'll need at least that depth to get spray foam insulation under / around plumbing traps and under / around heat ducts. And plumbers / hvac trades will need to install as high up as possible, and typical strongback bracing under the top chord may have to be designed to accommodate those mech. items as well.

I made a few adjustments which you can explore to see if they deal with the issue. 1665640141_ArcherShopROBD.plan

You adjust this by moving the railing wall on the floor above the stairs.

Last one. I've used added lights for the island pendants and I noticed that they need to be a higher light level as the get further from the camera. In this view, they're all 200 and the further ones don't show any point of light at the bulb. I also moved the base and crown molding off the floor and ceiling by 1/8". But I can't offer any rendering improvements.

No worries, I get it! I'll send your plan back so you can compare any changes I made. I also noticed that the wood floor makes everything else look better compared to the tile floor.

I know those images aren't great. I was just putting a spotlight on the spheres to see the how the inner sphere reacted to different light sources. I did change the IOR for the outer sphere material to 1.1.

I think perhaps there needs to be more ambient light.

Once I changed the glass sphere material, the inner sphere appeared smaller (the correct size). I didn't change its size but I changed the material to the same as the kitchen faucet. In the 2nd image, the small sphere is the countertop material.

It may have something to do with the settings of your lights. I got some very different results in my image as I played around with light settings for some of the fixtures I used. If you want me take a look at your plan you can send it to me direct. I've got a bit of time today. Send me a PM and I'll send you my email address. And I totally understand if you don't want to:).

Here's a higher resolution example of the glass (for Kevin) and my jagged shadows.

@kwhitt I used a copy of 'Glass Standard' and adjusted the IOR to 1.1. Notice that I have other issues though. Chief will only 'light up' the pendant that is closest to the camera. And I've got very jagged shadows by the left side of the cabinets along the back wall.

Then you should move it to the center of the main layer. You probably know the main layer thickness. Move the line to the edge, then replicate it over half that amount.

Thanks, glad it was helpful. Keep in mind that a quick way to locate the correct molding in the library is to double-click the cabinet (either in plan or the default) go to molding tab, then copy (ctrl-c) the name of the molding, then paste that text into the library browser.

Workarounds is probably not the right term. Think 'work'. You'll need to know the math, and often you'll need to do some basic cad drafting to provide accurate reference points and lines. Just like a carpenter would on site or in a factory / shop. If you're not sure how to do that, you may need to ask / hire someone for guidance. Perhaps a few lessons from an expert or you could get someone to make the necessary adjustments to your plan after you've roughly laid out what you have in mind.

For a cabinet crown molding, there is no need for a 3D molding. A 3d molding is only needed if the molding will not be level across the z-axis. To draw your cabinet crown molding, simply locate the correct molding in the library, select it, then drag out a polyline right over the cabinet. Then adjust its height. No need to locate a 'tool'.

You could add it to your tool bar or it is found under the "Trim Tools" parent tool.

No, that's the graphics card. The PC RAM is 16 GB.

Make every wall use the default top and bottom heights. There are quite a few issues with your model, maybe a few too many for the forum. I'd kindly suggest seeking some 1-on-1 training from an expert. Remember to define rooms before manually adjusting wall heights. For the Brick wall, change the brick ledge settings to 'zero'.