robdyck

First to accept the credit and subsequent gratitude goes to me though!

For a situation like that, I use a cabinet that is 4.5" deep (to keep my toekick). Keep in mind that an actual cabinet will probably not be mitered to a sharp 45. Rather, the face will be slightly away from the wall and a filler strip would be used...either ripped to 45 into the wall or placed perpendicular to the wall and mitered to the cabinet face. Then, I'd use a polyline to clean up the display in plan view, and a custom countertop.

@ChiefuserMathews It does look like a hand rail bracket mounted near the top of the concrete wall might be a bit far from the upper end of the hand rail. The last thing you'd want is an installer fretting about that, then mounting it too close to the top and blowing the concrete out. That was the reason that, in an earlier post, I mentioned aligning the inside of the concrete wall with the exterior of the deck framing (although I wasn't overly specific)

Highlands_Lot6.3_2.plan

Problem #1: the roofs aren't connected at the top. Problem #2: this wall isn't long enough. Problem #3: this wall doesn't align with the floor below Problem #4: the hole in the lower roof plane isn't the right size. Drag it up to the exterior of the wall. Problem #5: some walls aren't using the default top and bottom height. Recheck those. Clean up the other side to match. Notice the side wall is broken into 2 segments:

Hey Darren, glad you got it figured out. A few quick additional items will help with realism, although you may be ahead of me and have already done it. In elevation view draw a polyline 3/8" larger than your arched lintel course. You can replicate this for: material region to remove the brick polyline solid to be the mortar for the arched lintel.

Hey Wilson, to initiate a reply from another user of the forum, you need to either quote them or tag them. That will send out a notification. @ChiefuserMathews

Did you build the terrain on the main floor? That's where it belongs. I bet you built it on floor 0 so you'll need to follow Dermot's advice below.

Or the deck....or both.

You've got to click the handrail molding.

Your point is in the wrong spot. It needs to be the center of your arch so the solider course is concentric.

What I mean is that by using a schedule with the custom field for seating, the data will at least be correct and live. The resulting schedule can be copied into a spreadsheet for totals and any other editing.

From Help: Display Options - • Uncheck Display Column Headings to hide the selected schedule’s Heading row. When this is checked, each column has a heading at the top. • Uncheck Display Totals Row to suppress the bottom row stating the total area for all objects in the selected schedule. Only available in schedules set to include Door, Window, or Room categories, and only when one or more “Area” columns are included.

You either buy a macro or use the schedule to get your totals and add that info manually. Obviously adding the seating field to the tables will at least take care of getting the right totals as you make changes.

Seeing as you are using symbols, all you need to do is create a custom field in the OIP. Then, you'll be able to add that field to the schedule. EDIT: I believe you'll need a macro to get the totals automatically.

I'm taking this before @DzinEye gets to it. You're welcome!

Lighting.

For the balconies on the first floor, change the floor structure to a single layer that's 12.625" thick...same material as above. 18th st floorplan2.plan

Open the wall definition of the railing and change the material to whatever you want it to be...just not framing.

I had my cabinet 1" away from the wall. If I use a filler, that allows me to have a side backsplash controlled by the filler, and to turn off the side backsplash on the cabinet. Seems like a bug to me as I've not noticed this in past versions. I will report it to Support.

Has anyone else experienced a back-splash being cut (by it thickness amount) at a window(s) because of the back-splash also being at the side of the cabinet? I typically use an 18-20" high backsplash and it always on the sides. If I remove the backsplash from the side, the gap disappears.

If there were any attic walls and they were left untouched, they would have No Room Definition. Those automatic attic walls that form part of your room could have "attic wall' unchecked as well.

It'd be great if you've got the time to post your results and a couple of points of how you achieved it. Have fun!

You have to drag the top down in any 3d view. The most precise control of that is gained in a section view where you can draw a cad line at the exact elevation and drag the wall down to that cad line. If you want to 'set' the top, tell the wall to be a solid railing wall.

Good luck dealing with the stair-to-retaining wall connection at the top of the stair using an actual 'wall'. Way simpler and more control to probably use a solid for the retaining walls. I don't like fighting with Chief's wall connections and polylines for a case like that, but who knows...sometimes you get lucky and it can work really well.