robdyck

Also faster...hold "ctrl" while painting multiple objects to delay the change until you let go of "ctrl"

Group select the windows, then group select the materials to be changed. Faster. Also, in plan view...faster.

Good for you! You can place an architectural block in your library as well, and then you can explode that block if you'd like. You can also edit each component within the arch block by 'tabbing' your way through the selection process (often a bit easier in elevation view). Pros and cons to symbols vs arch blocks but in the example of those brick columns in your plan I prefer the arch block.

So what was the purpose of making that a symbol? I'd have used p-solids in that instance, placed on their own layer and left them as solids. If I had a group of objects (to create the corbelled caps), I'd have made an architectural block. Much easier to edit. Then no need for an unnecessary copy of the texture.

Global Symbol Mapping

It is because of the ceiling settings for the roof plane. Double click the roof plane to open and make sure that the roof planes are NOT using the room ceiling settings.

The lintel will have its own material as long as there is an actual molding profile specified. When no molding profile is chosen it uses the exterior trim material.

If you can't find a thatch roof pattern, you can create a pattern from the texture image in the material definition dialog.

A couple of reasons: Chief currently has a problem building all of those surfaces, especially if there's furniture in the plan, even though the surface count may not be excessive. You may have all the settings correct, and Chief will still randomly open up some of those ceiling connections. Double click the roof in that view, close it, and it will rebuild correctly. Roof planes and vaulted ceiling planes don't seem to like using the "Use Room Ceiling Finish" setting. It's a good idea to makes sure that all the ceiling layers are correct, for the roof, for the defaults, and for each room, but still this option needs to be unchecked.

You can make a decent texture from this

Take off the gutter. You can create a molding or distribution polyline that would nicely replicate the thatch overhang.

You're still missing the last 2 pieces. I'd post the plan but you'll feel soo good when you figure this out. I can't deprive you of that! I'm out now as well, have a great weekend!

see my previous posts. They're obviously wrong...I know that because I still remember framing my first roof like that when I was 16. The incorrect plans upset me off then too.

Or you can change it like this: This is how it was built.

you'll end up with this:

It's worth noting those roof types were often drawn wrong back in the good old days

What I'm hearing is that you don't know how to make that roof, right? You're probably forgetting about these 2 roof planes: It's not as hard as it looks. Just put 5 roof planes in the right spot and it'll all come together. Do the 2 that I highlighted last. Look where they start...make sure the fascia top is correct. Look where the ridge meets...they are 90 degrees from the main roof, just like a gable. Forgot to mention those were often drawn incorrectly back in the day.

delet delete the attic wall on the 2nd floor

It didn't even move on my computer. It should be on the first floor because there shouldn't even be a room up there on the 2nd floor. Changing the MAIN FLOOR walls to 'balloon through ceiling above' should automatically delete any attic walls above them. The attic walls that don't automatically delete can and should be removed manually.

plot lines, pdf:

All Live Views Screenshot of elevation view: from layout BEFORE printing: from the pdf: Clearly I'm not in control.

Interestingly enough, I can get some line weights to print really thin from a Live View, but not really thick. One more reason why I don't like them.

Well shoot, a couple of quick tests and it appears as though I'm wrong. So where does a printed Live View get its line weights from??

Sent you a PM.

You have a few options, but you might not like any of them! use a polyline solid on the doors to match the frosted wallcovering (this won't 'move' with the doors) make a door symbol out of solids that match the frosted wall covering. (this won't be simple to adjust the pattern vertically if you decide to adjust the frosted wall covering) I'd use option 1 until I know the design is finalized. Check out the attached plan. Sample glass partition.plan