joey_martin

Plans are bound on the left, and flipped through from the right. Thus the orientation of reading to the right.

Interestingly enough Richard...there was a 5.2 mag. quake in OKC this morning. Felt throughout Southern Indiana I'm sure.

He is here in Indiana. I handle most of my calcs, and for residential, we are still on the 2003 IRC with some updated energy amendments.

Michael shows the way I would handle it. Sides and angles.

I always use 2 walls.

If it were my plan, I would give them the length of each side and the interior angle that they would use to cut the mitres...I would leave the others off as that dim isn't important in the construction. Sides and angles.

Check the rooms to ensure that somewhere along the way you didn't end up with rooms OPEN TO BELOW, or that the rooms themselves, for some reason, have the framing defaults set wrong.

Turn off the Auto Filler function in the cabinet dbx

Custom countertop. In the field there would not be a cabinet back there, simply a cleat or nailer on the wall for support.

O......M.....F......G......<-------Get that one (Eye roll)

Spot on Richard. To my knowledge...limited as it may be according to some...there are no software substitutes for the actual know-how to properly design and layout the plans for a structure, regardless of size and scope. I hold true to my original answer to this post...if you know what your doing, there will be a place for you in this industry for the foreseeable future.

Drafting something that is accurate, and drafting something that is structurally sound are two completely different things. It is clear, Terry, that you are very fluent in the use of acronyms and longwindedness, however...again....you have completely and utterly missed the point.

Yes. Greater Indianapolis...aka the land of beige boxes.

There are many professional designers (architects, engineers, designers, etc.) that do not prepare plans themselves. They design, and have a team of drafts-persons to prepare the plans. Many times, and I'm speaking from first hand knowledge, that drafts-person not only is not in their office, but maybe even not in their state. If you know how to put together a solid set of plans, and have good/great communication skills, you have employment opportunities.....bad plan checker and over regulation aside.

You can print it directly from Chief on whatever size paper you want, and any scale you want. Just set up your layout correctly a d print to pdf, save it, email it, pick it up.

As said above, simply hit the print icon and set the printer to PDF. Set the paper size, scale, DPI....pretty easy stuff.

No. My elevations, sections, and details are always live...very little CAD work. Once the wall breaks are placed, simply click the wall while in elevation and use the temp dims to set the footing depth. Take a couple seconds per elevation to make them right.

Mine are shown with a line for the stem wall below. The exterior dim is still the same, and if there is a need for a brick ledge, the exterior ledge line can be added. Would this work better with the basement on level 1? I don't know, and honestly I'm not willing to try since my system works well for me.

Yes. Basement and foundation plans on floor 0, separate with anno/layer sets.

Basement floor plan and foundation plan all on level 0. I have never not done it this way, but that could just be because I have never needed to do it the other way. https://www.dropbox.com/s/83lzkad9n9zki4w/Plan%20Set%206_8_16_PROOF%20SET.pdf?dl=0

I think Scott Turner is down that way. https://www.facebook.com/RHDesignsLLC/?fref=nf

No luck on the insulation, though I do notice that sometimes it will stop where it needs to, others not so much. The headers can be set in the window/door dbx.

You can also use a roof plane for just the soffit. No real need to overlay anything. Set the framing to 2x4, no layers on top, and soffit layer on bottom. Ceiling plane tool will work as well.

If whomever is sending you the CAD file can turn off all the layers except the main outer layer of the walls, then the CAD to WALLS tool works really quickly. Even if you have just the wall layers, and can shift select the outer layer it works. The outer layer of the CAD file will be the MAIN LAYER of your Chief walls.

I think you will find a vast difference in what "productivity" means to some of us. If a builder hands me a 1600sqft home on full basement or crawl, and he has done the leg work with his homeowners, I will have him a "builders set" of plans in 20 hours TOPS! Sample "builders set".....https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/13283257/Samples/Kaylee%20Layout_11x17-PLAN%20SET.pdf If I am doing custom or semi-custom, then I don't track time as closely, because to me the productivity comes in a happy client, even if it takes me a month. For the custom jobs, my models are as accurate as I can get them...I would say 98% accurate as to the way the home is built. All framing, fixtures, trims and moldings, ceiling treatments, etc. All live sections and details, nothing is pulled from a canned detail library. This project is probably around 70 hours from sketch book to this PDF plan set. https://www.dropbox.com/s/83lzkad9n9zki4w/Plan%20Set%206_8_16_PROOF%20SET.pdf?dl=0 Is 70 hours good? I don't know, but the client was very pleased and their builder was ecstatic at not having to guess at details. I rarely, if ever any longer create CAD details. 99.9% of my details are sections that I then add text and patterns to. May take a little longer, but with my accurate models, I know I am detailing the exact item. I leave them all live so that changes get updated. I have not used CAD from View since probably v10 or maybe X1. Anno sets are a huge time saver for me. A good set of anno sets and layer sets will save some hours.