SHCanada2

...although in a macro you would lose the dynamic numbering...and the bold

so...I have been pondering this for awhile as a lot of my PBR are "dim" or dark, and I say to myself, "this does not look like real life". so I add more lights or change some of the settings. But, I assume, there is also no such thing as area lights in real life in someone's house. If CA has the model, the backdrop, the sunshine, shouldnt it look like real life without the area lights? Or are area lights required in order to make it look better in the render than it will actually look like in real life (kind of like taking celebrity pictures with the makeup and the lights to make them look better than they actually d, or like lighting movie sets so we can see the actors face more). But those are done for a purpose which is not..buying a house And if one adds area lights to a render, how does one know how many actual lights to build the house with to make it look at least close to the render?

I copied the periodic poster to my user library then did the attached. Ignore the part where I click on the materials button for the periodic table. I always forget one cannot edit the material from there (or maybe one can and I do not know how) 24.11.2024_21.08.05_REC.mp4

I may be late to the party here and a bit of a newbie, but cant one put a poster from the library on the wall, define the material and select the desired image(.png,.jpg...) as the texture and put the background as "Air"?

put them on different layers and then create different layersets. Although it is not quite that simple as CA will connect walls that are close together. If is just for 2d view, you can also use the room planner tools or just boxes, or lines

up to about 36" you can set the eave for that wall, and in the build roof, set the eaves to boxed with flush eave

it is a thing but not sure why, but now that you said it, maybe that is the cause.

thats what I do, until the ghosting appears on elevations, then I switch those to live (update on demand)

are you relinking through the tools menu or from the layout box. I relink in the layout box and it does NOT update the view, which actually annoys me as it just shows a white layout box

I just use the built in ones and then modify slightly then save it

if it is just cabinets and colours for different options, I will use the style pallete. It literally takes 5 seconds. If it is floor plans, I just keep a copy of the plan before I try the next change

I'm pretty sure I have seen this before as I remember clicking on different objects but the preview not updating...but I do not remember how I got it back to normal...maybe clear all the filters

also see Creating a False Gable or Decorative Dormer - Video | Chief Architect on creating the attic wall

well, figured it out. The two roof planes were initially auto generate, however I was modifying the one on the right for this purpose: Anyway when comparing the two roof planes, the modified one had a different fascia top height. Different by a few 16ths, but when I changed it to match the unaltered one, the ridge did not match, I then examined the roof baseline of the altered one, and it was not at the end of the top plate. I must have accidentally moved it, maybe by grabbing it instead of the roof plane. Bit that layer is not usually on, so who knows. Anyway it is fixed now by moving the baseline. It certainly was an interesting side effect, the odd framing shown above

there are also a couple ugly juliet balconies in the exterior accessories??? catalog

no shadow boards...

interesting, the definition is: When Use Special Snapping is checked, the selected roof plane's edges will automatically snap to the outside surface of walls that it may butt against. Uncheck this to prevent the roof plane from snapping to any nearby walls. There are no "Walls" in the 4 snap points I show in the video. I just tried it, I still get the same 4 snapping points even if it is unchecked. interestingly the first snap away from the designated eave length is 1-3/16" there is nothing in the roof for that my guess is it is the funky way CA decided to frame the lookout where it looks to be 3 different pieces. anyone seen that? : yup thats it: if I delte them and build all framing they return

oh, and...all these things assume flat earth, at least the ones I tried. They do not know the house next door could have a 10ft higher grade

strange, it was up only a couple months ago. it was nice becuase you could draw a building on the map and specify the hieght https://shadowcalculator.eu/ There were ones that tried to map existing buildings, like http://shademap.app/ Make sure your CA and whatever app you try is set to the right timezone (including DST)

I do it like below, each time of year that I do it has a separate layer, so I can turn on and off I use this site to double check: ShadowCalculator - Show sun shadows on google maps just be careful, timezone matters. some jurisdictions have specified times you have to do it at if this is a regulatory requirement

with a space that small there are only so many permutations. If it was me I would forgo the closet at the top, and put in a 5'x7'6 or 8' bathroom there, and put the bedroom closet along the wall that you come into the bedroom on.

no i do not use grid snaps

There looks to be 4 different "object" "endpoint" snap points withing a 18" roof eave. Any idea what they are? Is it snapping to things that are not actually showing like the fascia board. For testing, "enpoints" is the only object snap I enabled. Its a lot worse if I turn them all on (although it is the same 4 points) 27.10.2024_20.10.57_REC.mp4 Thanks

I did not try that, I thought about it, but thought that was similar to how I first did it (broke the wall and set it to a gable, then adjusted the roof planes pitch and eave down). But in thinking about it some more, the dormer does have an advantage in this regard, in that I could just type the values (width, pitch, eave length) into the DBX, and see where it got me where the breaking of the wall, I only got to set it to the gable). There is something a little funny. if the dormer wall height is 10" it looks like: if I put it to 6" (lowest allowable) to tray and get it to the end of the top plate it looks like: I then alter the planes to get: but when I alter the roof plains manually to get rid of the eave across the bottom the wall is missing: then I bring the wall down to cover and the open space, and then try and get rid of those two little ends and then it all goes to He double hockey sticks. ...maybe the first way was quicker...or use the dormer to find the distances, then go back to breaking the wall and setting it to a gable

welll, it certainly is interesting. I can set the eave to like 80" to get it to go down past the 2nd story top plate but that cuts into the room looks like the best i can get is: