tommy1

I wish this program was still available for purchase. I don't believe it is.

Pretty sure you can do it here but you can't make the upstairs be loft like with railing above looking down to the garage. We have to have a 20 minute fire-rated door (self-closing) that goes to the living space above. There would have to be an egress window upstairs (bedroom or not).

Exactly right. I have alot of notes that the city requires me to use in my plans...especially certain IRC notes.

To get this look, I would probably make a symbol of the railing. Recess the window and control/drag the symbol into the window.

You can look at my laptop specs below. Bought it in February of this year. Runs Chief just fine. I paid $1,500.00 after tax.

Have never seen 2x14 lumber here however I suppose you could special order anything but don't believe you'll find it in stock in Houston.

This is what I do to move the railing further in. Make the deck with the deck tool that has no railing with room definition. Place a deck railing wall inside the deck and make it no room definition and move it to where you want it on the deck. Pretty easy and simple.

Go up to the attic level and be sure attic walls are turned on. Place your windows there. Window/s should not show on 1st. floor and should not have a problem placing doors on the first floor.

Mine are still there with the latest update. Scott, You're using a Mac. Most things seem to be different when I help people on a Mac. Mine looks the same Eric's because I assume we're using a PC.

Joe, please call me if you like. I might have a job for you in Galveston. 832-754-6160

This can vary from place to place. I have several different details depending on the situation. More information is needed to probably help like for one your location and state. Have you spoken with an engineer for that particular project?

I'm sure it varies in areas but in Houston, TX, all new foundations whether new construction or remodels are required to have an engineering stamp. For that matter here, any new roof, load bearing walls that are moved, and any opening over 10' wide, or any engineered beam whether wood or steel needs to be signed off by an engineer to get a permit from The City Of Houston.

Someone with that version will have to step in. Not sure what you can do. Pretty sure with Pro, you can do it.

Place the roofs as your penciled it. Draw it manually if you need to and raise the pitch as you show. You'll probably need to move the window a little too. I would be happy to do a one on one meeting via Zoom to show you if you like. 832-754-6160

I personally don't care for that look but if you look closely, there does appear to be a cricket where the two gables come together I think.

Try setting the "separation" for whatever the distance is between the two windows. Then bump them together and see if they will mull. Just an idea.

I have been fighting this issue for several versions now. PIA.

If you want to work with layer sets and annotation sets like I do, call me and I would be happy to help (no cost). 832-754-6160

Not much to go on. Try opening a new plan. draw 4 walls to make room definition. See if you can do a full overview.

Try using Chief PDF printer and see if that helps. I have been using it exclusively since I got this new laptop with no problems. Before, I was using Cute PDF. When I upload a pdf to an email, I always open it from the email so I know it's okay before I hit "send".

What are your computer specs? What are you doing when it crashes? How big of a plan is it? Are you using high face count symbols? More information is needed.

My guess would be to check the face count?

I think he's good to go now.

I cheat when I need arched trim. Back when I had Version 8, I bought a lot of libraries from Jay Palmer. Don't know if his website is still available. His arched trim libraries have literally hundreds of symbols to be used with different size windows. Usually he has something that I can work with and they look good in elevations.

98% of my construction plans are stamped by an engineer who does markups and we go back and forth until it's done. I draw the construction plans. This always saves the client money. I have the owner or builder pay the engineer directly. Some of the engineers will only do the engineering if they supply their own plan which is 10 times the cost to homeowner or builder which means I basically provide a conceptual plan only with no structural of any kind such as notes and details. I do not deliver construction plans done by me without having an engineering stamp. If the engineer supplies their own plan, then I'll provide a pdf of the conceptual plan and create dwgs of the plan to send to the engineers. My dwgs are usually stripped down of things like cabinets and other things since the engineer is really only concerned about structure. My engineer that does markups is extremely reasonable in his prices. The other engineers are outrageous in their pricing.