dshall

Jeez, wouldn't it be easier to put the insulation in the floor system just inside the rim joist. Doesn't that give you the insulation you want and at the same time make it easier to build?

I use a mac, I have not updated to the latest version to confirm. I hope you guys get with tech support so this gets worked out.

The stairs want to stop an second floor, not the third floor. And then if you send third floor to layout you don't see stairs at first floor unless you use ref sets. If it works for you, that is awesome. I am lucky this has come up only a couple of times in 10 years.

Open cabinet dbx and make the shelves 1" less in depth.

Perry is probably the expert on this. I have used the extra floor method, and it worked fine, but there is probably a better way. I think the better way would be probably what Perry does which is the ceiling and floor is one assembly. The downside of this would be all joist run the same direction. Another method would be ceiling planes..... as you suggested.... that might get a bit fussy if you want the ceiling joist to sit on exterior wall which is what you would want.....however then you might not get the finish on the exterior wall... unless the floor ceiling assembly is defined as the entire thickness (24"?) but the ceiling joist layer is simply NO MATERIAL...... (very poorly explained but I think I understand what I was trying to say). Oh shoot, the answer is to let us define direction of both ceiling joists and floor joists without the big workaround. Of course this would mean we would need BEARING LINES for both ceiling joists and floor joists. I guess I am lucky, I rarely keep ceiling joists on for a second floor addition. I tear off ceiling joists and replace with 14" deep tji's.

If you have tried the extra floor method, you would of discovered some of the limitations..... doable....... but a lot of work. Think about how your stairs will work ......

Mine too.

I wonder why we can't specify the direction of the ceiling joists and the floor joists separately. Hey P., maybe this could be a suggestion.

I here you. My approach is to work with the anno sets that the original plan is using. It's too much trouble trying to update the plan to my current anno sets. I go back to a set of plans I worked on less than 2 years ago and I wonder what the heck was I doing. Our methods are always evolving. Try working with what you have. Probably not the advice you want.

Thanks all for looking. I tried Glenn's solution of deleting trusses auto rebuild roof and all was well. HOWEVER, if I put trusses at second floor roof, the rafters at the lower porch roof disappeared again. I think Perry has talked about how trusses do not allow lower rafters to build. I suppose I had hoped this was fixed by now but I guess not. A bit frustrating that something as basic as this is still not fixed. If I have time I will report it.

Where are rafters over porch at first floor See attached plan. The rafters over the lower porch do not frame unless I pull the roof away from wall. I am sure it is something I am doing wrong. Can you help me? Lin to plans https://www.dropbox.com/s/aab7hsal3kzsis0/no rafter at portch.plan?dl=0 no_rafter_at_portch.plan

Of course, CAD DETAIL FROM VIEW.

Set the garage elevation at -133.0, set the driveway height at 1", make sure you have a room def for the room of garage above. It should look good, stir and season to taste.

BTW, I was almost going to compliment you on the terrain, not bad, however your garage does not have a room definition thus you have dirt in your garage. You have a bad wall connection so your garage is a room and then you will not have dirt in your garage. Pretty darn good model.

change the height from 28" to 1"

Here's one for you. Do what Perry just said. Look at layout, all is well, now......... move re that view to the next layout page...... how would you do it? 1. Cut the view off the page and paste it on previous page? 2. Or would you open the window DBX from layout and change the page it is on via DBX? you will find that if you cut and paste the view, the fills/colors will come back on .....,, but ........ if you open the DBX of the layout window and change the page it is on, the fills/colors will not come on.

If you learn more by working thru it yourself, why are you posting a question here? What you are doing is taking up solvers time because he is guessing at a solution. Solver is very good, you will learn a lot more at a quicker pace if you give folks like solver the information so he can teach you. Believe me there are plenty of things you can learn on your own.

That is the answer.

Turn off COLOR?

Hey DJP, what is going on? I am not sure that helped out the OP. He is trying to learn from somebody that has tackled the task. It might be helpful to him if you cited a passage in CA's help section that explains how to achieve what he wants. On a separate note, the OP should post the plan.

I agree, the kitchen should not feel orphaned and it should have an island. Think about flipping the entry and kitchen.... think about hiring a pro to help you out with the design.

Talk to Joe Carrick. Hi is in San Marcos.

I have had a pretty ***** day, if you have a few minutes, I sent you a GTM invite......

The question is, if I change the default for roof framing from trusses to conventional or vice versa, and the walls change heights due to the change, does that make sense to you? If it makes sense to you, I am not sure how we can discuss this any more because it makes no sense to me.

Michael, you suggest I have auto rebuild roofs on. I do not think that will work. Here is a very simple test. Build 2 20'x20' garages. Try to have one garage auto build roof with trusses and have the other garage auto build roof with rafters. 80% of my projects have a mixture of conventional and truss framing.