dshall

Yeah, I thought of that, might be doable......

Super, thanks Glenn, I will look into it when I get a chance...... I think I was thinking of using a different font that did have the filled boxes, but I had not successfully completed the task.

Really? WOW, that is not good. Another good topic for the DSHW. I would like to create a line style with SQUARE FILLED BOXES (this is a line style I would use to show some BMP barriers) (not 3d boxes), but I do not think i can do that. I think we are limited to DASHES, DOTS, TEXT (20 mm max). I would also like to create a line with "X's"(to designate cad drawn fences), (I know I can use the LETTER X, but would rather create my own "x")

I just don't know why you and anybody else who needs help would not post a small plan so helpers can help you. What is so hard to understand about that. I was thinking like Curt because I did not have a plan to refer to. But after reading your question several times, I finally figured out that changing the text style will not work, it is the LINE STYLE you need to EDIT. Your problem is with the LINE STYLE you are using. I know as much about line style as I do about quantum mechanics, but I would bet you need to create a new LINE STYLE with the LETTER "P" at a larger size. How is that answer for reading between the lines. Please post plans in the future, you will get an answer much quicker.

Hello, where did that come from? Thx Eric.

I did not go into the super details, but the first step would be to turn on your EXTERIOR CASING for the door.

Your attached file contains no data. You must close the file prior to attaching, and then attach file and post. This is a very good question. Let's see what you have.

I think your approach would be elevation lines, no argument here. Interesting test Rich, note the depression in the elevation point example.

This would be a great topic for the DSH 20 minute WORKSHOP. Elvin, would you be willing to share sometime in the near future? I am just not convinced or sold on this yet but I am always willing to listen. Thanks, hope to see you at 4:00 pm PST today for terrains workshop.

This is the simplest and best explanation I have seen (they do not need the same name) BTW, this is what the SAM is all about.

Hi Perry, 20 minutes is too short, that is why I extended it to 30 minutes max. My thought on this was it would require us to be focused, which means we would ignore ALAN "the funniest man alive" LEHMAN, and get the job done. Also, if we stayed focused and kept the time spent at a minimum, we might be able to do more workshops. It would be a learning session on steroids. I am keeping notes on possible topics. I am excited about this. The more heavy hitters who participate in the workshops, the more we will learn, and the heavy hitters will educate the future heavy hitters. So you guys who do not think you have anything to contribute, no worries, join in, you will learn and contribute later.

Good topic for DSH 20 MINUTE WORKSHOP

Good topic for DSH 20 MINUTE WORKSHOP

Good topic for DSH 20 MINUTE WORKSHOP

Good topic for DSH 20 MINUTE WORKSHOP

I remember the thread and you may be correct that I changed to linear as a test after reading Glenn's solution.

Thanks to Glenn, he helped me with the problem. Somewhere down the line I had changed the TERRAIN SMOOTHING TO LINEAR, once I changed it back to MEDIUM, all was well. I do not know why I would of changed it...... I never get into the terrain DBX..... another of life's mysteries.

I concur, move on, one day CA will make it available, it ain't there yet.

I just have to say that Eric/Solver is an asset to this forum. Thanks Eric.

However you have not dealt with the PERRY/DSH slab to stem wall issue,..... to solve this issue you need to put a concrete mono slab footing ON ALL 4 SIDES of your porch. This is something Perry and I have posted on this site many times, not sure why you did not realize this. Maybe you do not read all posts.

I am sure I am wrong, but I think if you define the STEM WALL AT -6", you may get what you want.

Another example, the top pic is good, the bottom pic is bad..... what happened? I do not know. I can't imagine what I did to the model that effected the terrain adversely.

Griffin, I have been doing terrains for a long time. I can do them. With some effort I can get what I want........ HOWEVER, I just opened a relatively complex terrain and it was not the way I left it. At one time it work relatively well..... after a few days I go back to the model and the terrain is not behaving as it did. It is a walk out basement........ for some reason there was something I did to the BUILDING MODEL (not the terrain), that messed up the terrain. This kind of stuff is very frustrating... I will not even try to fix it now..... not worth the effort..... I am as frustrated as you. I agree with you, it should not be this difficult to set a terrain and have it STICK. I do not know what the problem is. I think CA can do a "simple terrain" easily... but if it does not fit within their "model", you are on your own. I have terrain "bleeding" into my basement. See attached pic, Note the dirt "bleeding" into the garage. It was not like that a few days ago. I would post the plan, but I do not think anybody can fix it WITHOUT A LOT OF TIME. I do not think it should be necessary to stand on one leg doing 3 hail Mary's to get the terrain to work....... and then hope that if I sneeze the terrain will not screw up. Very very frustrating. As I said, at one time the terrain was great..... you can compare the two pics, note the dirt "bleeding into the garage" in each picture...... it is different in each picture, I did not change the terrain...... very very frustrating...

Gracias

Or you could build a wall, fill it with a widow with mullions.