Alaskan_Son

OR you can use Rotate/Resize About Current Point (one of my personal favorite tools) along with one of these 2 methods... Multiple Copy: Just place a point at the center of your circle or arc and make sure to use the Rotate handle when dragging out your copies. Copy/Paste: Same as above except you can use the Copy/Paste tool in Sticky Mode and place the copies one at a time.

You can always set the Plan View association for your layout box to “None”. I personally see very little benefit in having a layout box linked to a plan view anyway. Layout boxes essentially are (and always have been) “plan views” in and of themselves anyway.

I could make something a lot closer for you. How long it took (and the resulting price) would depend on how perfect you need it to be as well as which parts and pieces you actually needed.

You're welcome. I wouldn't waste my time doing that. Dave is incorrect on this one. Those items DO NOT need to be on the same layer. I block things on different layers all the time, and actually, it can be extremely useful to do so.

Its because you have a normal polyline in there Bill. Change it to a molding polyline, then you can make your block.

This^^^^ I was starting to type it up but Eric saved me the time.

I think a more dependable method is to Multiple Copy Room Dividers. The CAD lines work okay up until you have a wall in the nearby vicinity. Only thing you have to watch for is when one of your wall copies might overwrite another wall. For this reason, I would also suggest that you set your room divider to No Room Definition before your multiple copy. Using Room Dividers has one other benefit too in that you can just leave them there in those instances where removing them will cause the wall break to jump to the center of an intersecting wall. Also, when selecting every other wall, there are any number of methods you can use to stop them from joining. A different Wall Type (even just in name) will do the trick, but so will: -Changing the wall thickness to make it .001" wider or narrower (a difference so slight that it should have little to no affect on almost anything anywhere). This actually just creates a new wall type automatically too. Its just slightly quicker than changing the wall type. -Checking or unchecking "Stagger Multiple Framing Layers" (something that is quite often totally inconsequential) -Putting the walls onto a different layer -Clicking "Reverse Layers" (if the wall definition is symmetrical I'm sure there are other changes to the wall definition that would probably do the trick as well. Those are just a few that I know of.

Rather bold statement. I really don’t think there’s anything to add. That should give us all a lot to think about. Well put good sir. Well put.

If you really want an answer, post the plan. I'm guessing its a wall definition problem though.

The way I have personally started handling that is by just using the delete surface tool for the necessary views.

Both my PC and my laptop are gaming systems. By the way, in his defense, as I read through you guy's advice, it doesn't actually sound like he's advising against a gaming machine... It seems like he was just encouraging a desktop over a gaming laptop. It just sounds like he thinks you're better off having a mediocre laptop AND a good desktop rather than a really good laptop...which I definitely agree with.

I'm sorry Joey, but I think you may have been given bad advice. It may be that your guy's experience is working against him. A lot of other CAD/CAM software works great in a workstation environment but Chief thrives on gaming systems. I do agree that you're better off investing in a PC than a laptop, but if I had to choose between your laptop and a gaming laptop for Chief, I'd pick the gaming system 10 times out of 10.

The problem lies with your upper wall definition. It looks like you dragged that down in elevation. Check Default Wall Bottom Height and the garage door cutouts are fixed. You'll have to use a different method of getting the stone veneer on there.

By all means, give it a shot, but if you'e not maxing out your RAM, I honestly can't see any way that more RAM is going to help with anything at all. I'm curious. Who told you that?

I doubt it will make any difference whatsoever.

Looks like a mistake to me.

You bet. Maybe consider adding your support to this suggestion...

Yes, but then they will remain constant on all floors. Much less room for error. You can also just use callouts with cross section lines and Copy/Paste in Place from floor to floor or use your Reference Dispaly and/or overlap views in layout but IMO, cameras are the most dependable, most flexible, and least error prone.

Cameras displayed as callout with cross section lines and visible on all floors are my personal favorite method. Biggest downside is lack of ability to snap to those lines.

Actually, I used a unique wall type...

In my opinion, none of the setting variations you could possibly try will frame your situation quite right with Chief's current framing rules and no matter what you do you'll still have to manually modify it. Either the headers won't be right or the plates won't be right, or something won't be right. I'd recommend you just frame the lower wall, frame the upper wall, and then modify the framing as necessary to get what you ACTUALLY want which I typically do in Wall Detail.

Are you talking about an actual gable end truss? If so, I don't have any problem with those...

It's because Retain Wall Framing was checked. Or maybe something like this is what the OP was looking for? ...if so, Chief currently isn't quite smart enough to get that right automatically. You'll just have to manually modify the framing.

Go here and uncheck "Show All Layers"

I personally use 7-Zip. Not sure WinRAR is really necessary unless you're needing to create RAR files.