Alaskan_Son

You're welcome Chop. Thanks for upgrading me from unhelpful back to simply neutral and of no affect, it means a lot I’m really going places now!!

You're welcome. Thank YOU for your support. BTW, I also want to send a shout out to whoever appreciates the help Robert and I have offered. Classy! I fixed yours for you Robert. Anyway, whoever you guys are, please shoot me an email or PM so I can be sure to put you on my short list people not to help.

I can verify, they all seem to be a single material. For now I guess your best bet is to add to your user library and "fix" them...

See if this gets you started...

You bet : )

Most noticeable upgrade ever...hands down.

At least 2 ways... 1. Control+Tab followed be Enter 2. Edit>Preferences>Text>Options>Text Specification Enter Key...UNCHECK Create New Line. You just have to get in the habit of hitting Shift+Enter to create a new line.

You have to make sure and CLOSE the plan before you zip it.

I don't personally use the material list very often so that is a non-issue for me personally but... The material list: The additional molding gets added to the material list just fine albeit as its own line item depending on how you have your molding drawn and spec'ed elsewhere. Reasons for not using the room molding: Any adjustments to the room or cabinet placement and you have to adjust your molding polylines again. With the separate molding polylines you can leave the room molding automatic and just move the cabinet along with its moldings. There are just a couple of the most notable reasons anyway.

It seems clear that you have a second schedule somewhere...in a CAD Detail maybe? At any rate, to alleviate guesswork and post the plan... Save the plan and CLOSE it. Click "choose files" Select your plan file and click Open Submit Reply If the plan file is too big you can do a Save As and delete unnecessary parts and pieces or you can try zipping the file and attaching that way.

You could post the plan and it would probably be done in about 45 seconds.

Good points Mark. There are definitely some good reasons not to mess with the room molding. Not sure how you got your molding shape, but here's a quick tip for that...

I think you'll find that blocking it has one potentially notable downside...the width and depth information displayed will depend on its orientation in plan and may not be accurate. This can be addressed a number of ways, or it may not be a problem...something to be aware of though. To create a cabinet symbol you have to Export 3D Model (I think 3DS is a good choice), and then Import 3D Symbol. You can then select "Cabinet" during the import process.

So, I started my tile warehouse plan today. I thought I'd at least share the Chief Core Content part with you guys... Tile warehouse.plan Also, a couple quick tips: One of the easiest ways to bring material over into your main plan is to drop a quick pyramid into your plan, explode the shape, and then block it while all faces are still selected. This will give you a small "palette" to work with. You can then simply cut or copy and paste into your main plan... To really make navigating warehouse plans faster and easier I think it would be a good idea to create a Focus On Selected hotkey for yourself.

Now there’s a good idea...a warehouse plan for the textures. Might take 2, 3 hours or so, but I think I might be well worth it. I might consider adding tags from time to time, but like I said, I’m not sure that one will do me a whole lot of good. I just don’t re-use materials enough to make it worth while. The warehouse plan though is a very different story...that one just might be the ticket. Thanks Rene.

You can still do that by placing a point and using Rotate/Resize About Current Point. Just switch to the RRACP edit mode, place your point, and then use the Resize edit mode (X).

If you're talking about closed poylines, here's a trick you can use. This is a pretty good one...

See if this help at all. This video also includes a tip for deleting extra nodes along a single line (not around a corner)...

All very good advice Mark and I know this starting to get a little off subject, but few other things I would add that I'm sure you know but didn't specifically address... Look out for adjacent cabinet handles too. Those can be even worse than the protruding countertop. Don't forget about the ventilation space ABOVE the cabinet. Many refrigerators require that space. I like to add a little wooden grille to match the cabinets at that spot. And a couple other tips: Whenever possible I like to add a furred wall or create a recessed area in the wall behind the fridge to allow for a standard depth refrigerator that doesn't stick out into the room. With regard to the required airspace behind the fridge: Problem here is that it is very easy for the fridge to get pushed back too far and end up in a situation where the doors either cannot be opened, or they can open but end up damaging the doors or the cabinetry in the process. A few years back I started addressing this by affixing a foam block to the back of the fridge about 2 ft. up off the floor...even a couple small foam blocks. Just something that doesn't obstruct airflow but keeps the refrigerator from getting pushed too far back... ...You know, now that I think about this, this all really isn't off subject at all. This all just emphasizes why some of us think its much wiser to place these appliances manually. If you're actually designing the kitchen I would go so far as to say its an absolute must if you really want to make sure and cover your basis. If you're just throwing cabinets in as filler items...maybe not so much...that's where just dropping them into the cabinets might come into play. The only appliance I typically add to the cabinet is the dishwasher.

Wow, I don't see how you could work without them. I only turn them off for the rarest of situations.

I pretty much always make the opening the proper size and then place the appliance manually. FAR more accurate and controllable that way.

I was assuming he was talking about closed polylines and breaking them into multiple closed polylines. We can do that too though using boolean operations and very thin or even zero width polylines.

You know what would really be nice? Group select pages in Project Browser>right click>Referenced Files. Couldn’t get much quicker than that. Add in the ability to Copy and paste the selected pages per the original suggestion and we’re really in business.

Ya, but like I said, that might be marginally useful at best. The keywords are one of those things that may or may not do any good at all unless you write them yourself There are countless tile patterns, countless tile sizes (or worse...combinations thereof), countless textures (and combinations thereof)... Find me a medium format, long skinny 1/3 offset horizontal white marble bricklay tile with 1/8" grout lines and a coordinating small format multicolored listello strip that also has a sort of horizontal feel going on (don't want any herringbone, little square tiles, octagons, circles, or anything like that)...and the accent tiles needs to have some dark grays in there as well. Seriously though...please don't find that for me. I actually don't need that right now. Just sayin'...using keywords is a whole lot easier said than done and as I mentioned before, other sites use that sort of system and I'm not sure it does any good at all much of the time. In fact, oftentimes it does just as much harm as it does good.

Strange indeed. Very easily reproducible. Looks like its only an issue with piers drawn in previous versions. All new piers behave just fine. You're not doing anything wrong. Please send this in to tech support so they can get it fixed.