Alaskan_Son

Definitely. Cropping in layout will cut off any notations that fall outside your viewport.

This is one issue where I think people fight the software way too much. Super easy to just use an elevation camera and mask the view as necessary. The wall elevation cameras are great for some things, but as with any other tool they have their limitations. Just use the right tool for the job and save all the headache. To speed up the process, I have a few generic CAD masks in my library... Spend a ton of time forcing a wall elevation to work, or just mask it, I guess it's up to you.

Open this wall and uncheck Hang Floor Platform Above On Wall...

Your problem is very difficult to follow based on nothing more than a written description. If that's all it took than we wouldn't be using Chief right? We would just be using Word to type up our construction docs Anyway, a plan is best, but at least a screenshot or 2. There are any number of variables or combinations that could affect your situation including but not limited to roof plane structure settings, ceiling plane structure settings, room ceiling finish and structure settings, which floor your fixtures are drawn on, what the symbol settings for your fixtures are (including origin offsets), whether your fixtures have been blocked or not, etc. etc.

Not sure. Oldest version I have installed right now is X8, and I had it in that library.

They're in a bonus catalog called Rec Room and Games that no longer seems to be available on Chief's site. Not sure why. Here's some stuff you can use though... Pool tables.plan

I agree, the behavior seems incorrect. Make sure it gets reported to tech support.

Try placing a break in the foundation walls at those 2 locations.

To your point, do you really think offering a convoluted hack is better than just telling a new user how to manually modify the framing? I have to say that I think that Glenn's solution is equally as bad, they all are still going to require manually modifying the framing because we all know that headers need trimmers and the question wasn't how to break up the header into multiple pieces or how to remove kingposts anyway, simply how to get the framing between the windows. Sorry, I think you guys are way overcomplicating this one...especially for a new user. Eric had it right to start with, it depends on the framing requirements, but just adjusting manually is the easiest and most accurate. By the way, on a side note, and most specifically for the OP; when we see things that we think should be behaving differently than they are, we should send in as a suggested improvement to Chief. In this particular example though, I think Chief is actually doing the right thing since you would almost never want to break up the header or remove kingposts. The alternatives are to either add some framing members between the sill and header, OR break up the sill and add framing between the bottom plate and header (with or without extra cripples). Probably best to leave it up to the user no?

Okay. We’ve come up with some ill contrived workaround solutions but I think if we were holding a contest this one just might be the winner...or loser...not sure which. It seems like you improved upon the suggestion for manual framing modifications by adding 9 extra steps first. That took guts my friend. My hats off to you

After accounting for your space between windows and your rough opening settings, Chief needs at least enough room to place a single king post or else the openings will mull together as one. Just adjust the wall framing to your liking as Eric suggested.

You need to use a section of STRAIGHT driveway between your polyline driveway and road if you want to get the curbs to automatically cut, and you'll also need to set your driveway and road heights to allow for the transition that actually matches up and makes sense.

The bottom leg of your molding just needs to be a little longer.

One other method that can be handy to have in your back pocket is using multiple walls sandwiched together. Give a lot more control over where the tile starts and stops and can be used to wrap around the ends of walls.

see if this helps at all... Flush example.plan By the way, I'm not necessarily saying this is the best method to use. Only that it is A method. One of the most automatic if all you need is quick 3D stuff.

You can do this for a lot of labels by placing your custom macro into the default label, but currently we don't have a default label for layout boxes. Until we do, I'm afraid you just have to do these one page at a time.

You don't need to recess the door at all. Like I alluded to earlier, you might need to increase the rough opening dimensions. Chief will only cut interior wall layers around the door back as far as that rough opening setting, so if your molding profile is 1.25" wide then you'll need to increase the rough opening to 1.25" as well. Again, you shouldn't actually need to recess the doors or windows at all though.

No reason to pad anything, and you actually don't even need to mull anything. The key settings are: Sash Depth and inset Frame Depth and Inset Casing Overlap (needs to be negative) The biggest downsides are that the window doesn't actually get a framed wrap using this method so you might want to downsize your windows to account for this. Pick your poison I suppose. The alternatives take a lot longer.

In order to make this work, the frame and inset also have to be adjusted. This is one of the key setting though for sure. It's just not the only necessary setting.

I think he's trying to get rid of those deep mullions Mick. Look at how Eric did his.

The best solution IMO really depends on what you need to draw them up for. Accurate section? Accurate elevations? Simple 3D?

I don't think he would mind either way : )

I don't think so. If you're in a CAD Detail, there's really no point in cluttering up your layers since the CAD only exists in that view. All that's really necessary in my opinion for CAD Details is to use the proper scale for your text. Using an Active Default with the proper scaling would have likely been the quickest way to draw it, but it's not a big deal to just set the height either. I personally find myself changing my mind on scale sometimes depending on how much room I have on my page(s) and so I too simply just manually change the size of text and arrows sometimes.

Did you try it? Someone should just try it. If you draw a piece of molding using the basic shape and orientation I showed, it will actually inset back into the wall. It has nothing to do with recessing the door or window. In fact, you could even use the same method for the base trim if you wanted. It would still require a pony wall though in order to automate the groove.

The pony wall just needs to have a reduced or removed interior drywall layer is all. And P.S. If you use a casing with a profile kinda like this... along with an appropriate rough opening dimension around the door, you can actually get the automatic recess too. Adding a custom color in the groove around the door isn't so auto using this method though... Okay, I'm done with this particular discussion for now. WAY too easy to spend too much time messing around with and discussing the methods for this type of thing.