Ridge_Runner

I start a new plan and name it, say, Wall Sections. I then go to CAD Detail and right click to start a new CAD Detail. I give the new CAD Detail a name - say 3/4" wall sections. I then change my defaults to use my 3/4" anno set (carry over from version X11) from the drop-down I have circled below. Once I am in my 3/4" defaults set, I draw my cad details. I may have one or more details in this new cad window depending how I want to save them for future retrieval. You will have to set up your own system based on your workflow and preferences. Chief has videos you can watch that will show you may of these things. Just go to the list and choose the ones you are interested in; lots of info in those. If I want a new warehouse plan, say footing sections, I just repeat the process with a new plan named 1/2" footing sections - or 3/4" or 1" - whatever scale I choose to do those in. The key is getting the defaults set up to start with. Joey has generously given you a good jump-start on those. Once you import his you will have much of the initial work done for CAD details.

That's what I do. Create them one time and copy them into your template plan and they will be there for all future plans you start. I do all of my CAD details in a "CAD Detail," not in model space. I also have warehouse plans where I keep most of my most commonly used details - wall sections, eave sections, porch sections, trim details, etc. From there I can either send the detail straight to layout, or copy the detail into the new plan CAD Detail window if I need to make a few changes for a one-off detail specific to that project. Quicker than typing this and very efficient.

You are using too large of a text size for 3/4" =1'-0" text. 4 1/2" text should be used for 1/4"=1'-0" scale text. I use: 4.5" for 1/4" scale 2.5" for 1/2" scale details 1.25" for 1" scale details For 3/4" details you should be using something like 1 7/8" text. I have all of my different default text sizes set up and let the layerset for my detail defaults control the text and arrow size and style. I find that works much better for me and I don't have to worry about the wrong text size. I draw all of my details at full (real) scale and set the size text default I want for the printed scale. I then send to layout at the printed scale like the video describes. That keeps all of my general text the same size when printed.

He was actually first, according to the time stamp.

I got it; just didn't respond back any further.

Are you wanting actual "sloped" walls, or just walls that are off-angle in a plan view? The pic above appears to have plumb walls but maybe on an odd angle, like Gene pointed out. If it is the roof baseline that is sloped, then yes, that can be done; several discussions in the past on the forum on that method.

What looks odd to me is the hard, dividing line where the "gray" color stops half way thru the arched doorways. It happens on both of them. Also, the inside of the larger arch is the lighter color while the right side of the arch at the baseboard has the gray at a hard break half way. I expect a variation in colors and shadows, but not those hard break lines. Chad, better to attach the plan, with the same camera above saved, so others can take a look. Make sure to zip the file, if necessary, with all of the textures and colors included.

OK, thanks. Just curious.

My guess, and it's just a guess, is that it confuses CA. The program knows windows can have their own lintels so it just doesn't know what to do with that wider door lintel.

The desert seems to always "pose" for a good picture!

Surely you know Murphy is still lurking around somewhere! Just kidding. I am approaching the same difficult decision. I have almost 25-years of printed CA dwgs that I have kept. Don't know if I will toss them, or get a new wife (married 47 years next month). A new wife probably will give me the same advice though.

It will work for either - #1 or #2.

David, is that a Sketchup view?

This is the way I would do it - and do. Placing a reference line in the plan and using "edit area" to copy from give you a known point for your moves and makes the alignment accurate without having to edit wall locations, etc. very much. I usually draw the start of the reference line where I want the point to point move to begin and then draw the end of the line out at say a 45 degree so I can visually pick it up more easily. Make sure to do your point to point move while your copy in the new plan is still selected; makes the entire operation much easier. Quicker to do than to type this dissertation.

Follow Robert's advice and instructions in his screen-capture to get it to work.

I will have to check, but I think that cross section line is the one that works with "snaps" while the other one does not. Been a while since I explored that dilemma; maybe it is better now.

My biggest reason for using Plot lines. CA still adds tooooooo many extraneous lines for me and I always try to edit those out in layout. My OCD I guess but I like clean layout sections. That said, CA is much better in this area than it was a few years ago. Now, if they would just put one line in section views instead of two (one on top of the other) my work would be even less to clean things up. I don't know why it is necessary to send two lines for each one in section to layout, especially when "merge lines" is selected.

"The focal length of the lens is the distance between the lens and the image sensor [film in the old days] when the subject is in focus, usually stated in millimeters (e.g., 28 mm, 50 mm, or 100 mm). In the case of zoom lenses, both the minimum and maximum focal lengths are stated, for example 18–55 mm." Like Mark says, the "focal length" changes the field of view - think telephoto vs. wide angle lens. 50mm is approx. what the eye naturally sees.

You have't been breaking "quarantine" have you?

Well worth the $100 lifetime membership fee if you choose to join. Lots of free stuff there but much more for a one-time fee. One or two custom symbols will pay for the fee. Did I say Lifetime?

I was concerned about this also. But the 4K monitors are excellent. I also have a LG 32" true monitor. The TCL 4K is far superior to it in clarity and I am running both at 3840x2160.

TCL 43" 4K model #43S517 (from Walmart). I have two and they work great. Tried a Hisense from Walmart but it only lasted 2-weeks and died...would not turn on.. took it back.

This same thing happens to me also, Larry. Like you, I can't reproduce it and don't know what causes it. When it happens it usually won't allow me to select certain objects but will select objects, like roof planes, that are on an "off" layer. Strange, but happens. I have been closing and restarting also but will try Robert's "fix" next time.

Sorry, Graeme, to laugh while you are in a dilemma. But laughter is a good medicine for the soul.

Wasn't sure what system he might be using. Just figured he might find some "parts" from Simpson that would help with the detailing.