TeaTime

No, I don't believe so - entering in fractional inches, 1/16 is the smallest the Size fields allow, so even entering in 17.7, it's rounding to 17.6875", the nearest 16th.

Sure can - save one door, copy it, reflect one. Bottom line from the start though is you need two door symbols any way you swing it.

Because of how Change Opening/Hinge works, I don't think there is an easier way. I guess I don't get why it didnt work though, with two door panels in either direction you should be able to apply and flip them to whatever orientation you need

Well, if Change Opening/Hinge is essentially just doing a Reflect, then if you flipped the symbol the wrong way, then Change Hinge should flip it back the right way, right?

Try copy/reflecting the door and making two different versions?

Curious, Pony Wall layers are supposed to cut around the casing, not the opening. How'd you create the pony wall? What are the wall layers, layer grouping, etc.

I think "expected' depends on the situation, but regardless there's just no control to make it do/not do that. It just *does*. Though apparently if the cap splits the walls it doesn't do that. But you don't want that. Making wall type copies technically fixes it but breaks it in another way Maybe that's acceptable, but I also don't think it'll be possible to get that little brick wrapping around the corner like in the photo - Chief will only allow a break a certain distance from the corner. That photo shows a single brick length wrapping and I think Chief'll fight you there. Might do something like a thick cornerboard - but the cap will probably just need to be done manually.

That's what I was thinking too - unfortunately I don't think that's going to work exactly like the image because of the fascia and sub fascia. Chief can do Square or Plumb(vertical), but not plumb horizontal. Should file it under Suggestions.

Just to see if it handled it gracefully or not, I marked those short wrapped attic walls to Retain Framing before I generated wall framing so they'd be ignored, and hey, lookit that better than I'd expected!

Yeah, that'll totally work if the lower wall type is Solid, but Panels, Balusters, etc. won't let you put a framed wall above. Only the other way around. What I'd probably do is go Up to floor A, draw a wall aligned with the rail below, then in a camera or Elevation view pull it where you need it usually not a great idea to go yanking wall tops n bottoms around but this is one of those weird situations. I did have to wrap the corner on Floor A otherwise you'll have exposed framing.

Beat me to it once again, @DBCooper That's what I was thinking too -- Try using the Back Clipped Cross Section to create an elevation of just that one wall to eliminate the back wall's framing, and check to make sure the layer is on in th Section View's layer set.

To be normal honest: there's a lot going on here - too much to give a simple answer. To be brutally honest: your baselines stress me out. I had to just ignore them and focus on matching fascia heights. One big tip to start though: that one roof plane that's jutting up too high needs to match the 6:12 pitch of the main roof just so that it can even join the rest. After that, it's a game of massaging things into place. I played with this for a little while before I got it to fit together nice n tight. In a design like this you're guaranteed to have different fascia heights, but the trick it getting them to match where they need to, then reshaping the overbuilding areas. In a lot of places you can open one roof plane, copy the Fascia Top Height and paste it to adjoining roof plane, locking the Pitch. As long as they have the same overhang depth and fascia height, the Join should be good. One big hurdle here though is that main 6:12 plane on the top has different fascia heights: You cant copy the fascia height from this one since it'll take the lowest fascia (the right edge). To get the left edge fascia height you'll either need to manually measure in elevation or draw a new roof plane over that wall -- the Move to be Coplanar roof tool works wonders for this. Pull that left edge back off the wall, draw a small roof plane over that wall and Move to be Coplanar with the large roof. Then copy it's fascia height around to 9:12 plane on the left. There's probably a good half dozen other snags you may run into here though - I know some people on here offer training services, as does Chief directly. I'd probably suggest looking into that.

There's definitely something more going on: but yeah, agreed, go through that article try some other PDF writer software - in the days before chief had a built in PDF Export feature we used to have to use things like PDF995 or CutePDF, sometimes they avoid some of these weird issues.

If I were to guess, it seems Mulled units look to Windows Defaults for their schedule info. Go into Window Defaults and change it to Fixed and see if that fixes it, it did for me.

Looking at an object in Chief that is already setup to work like this will help understand how to configure ones you've imported in. Placing a dishwasher from the catalog into a plan and opening it, you'll see on the 3D panel there's an Origin Offset that's used to re-position the object so that it sits inside the cabinet it's placed in. Of course that only does what it's supposed to if on the Options panel its set to Inserts into Cabinet Front. Edit: Oh, just noticed X13 in your sig, in older versions you have to use Open Symbol, instead of Open Object. If you're dealing with Imported objects they should be in your User Catalog, you can just right-click them there

This is pretty easy to reproduce, it certainly does seem to treat "+" and "/-" as different things.* "correct" is subjective - I'm sure a software engineer may have a way to justify this behavior that makes no sense to the rest of us. I don't think it ever hurts to report something you feel is wrong. *Edit: I got it to wrap "+/" and "-" so I'm guessing it's just not treating a string of symbols as a "word"

I assume Ryan's point was to educate that you can ask the Forum, or you can ask Help. Just searching "Cursor" brings you to that topic. Also take note of all the other cursors in that list, there are a few on there that can seem to appear mysteriously.

Ah. Mostly the same as above, Right-Click> Open With, but select "Other" instead of just choosing X12. You can set the default there. *Edit: see https://www.macrumors.com/how-to/how-to-manage-file-associations-in-macos/

Yeah it's absolutely File Association, there's no such thing as X12 "saving an X8" file, Windows just says ".plan files open with [program]", yours is set to X8 still. you can also just right-click the plan file and choose "Open With", select X12 and make sure its set to always open files of that type. Do the same for a Layout file.

There's a Button right on the Library Browser, too

Oooh. I don't think X12 had that.

Sure, it's the small triangle.

Glad you got it sorted - framing out the whole area like a small room like that would have been my next suggestion, it really is the best way to work with walls. Making them really thick causes all sorts of weird issues and more often than not just complicates the situation.

"best practice" depends on what you're after. Ponywall works fine so long a you don't need super precise framing -- remember that the wall thickness determines stud thickness, and 2x18 studs are uh... rare. X15 seems to allow this just fine, but it may be different in older versions. If you place a niche and then drag it down in a 3D view, it should jump to the lower walls surface once its fully "in" the lower wall. The other trick is that you're wanting a niche in both upper and lower walls, but as far as the program is concerned that's the same location on that wall. Probably the easiest method would be to place one in the upper wall, set it's height etc., then use the Copy/Paste > Paste Hold Position and drag the copy down to the lower wall. This is correct - these objects are setup to attach to walls - the back of a niche is--well, part of a niche. it's not seen as "wall". But if you place an outlet on the wall in Plan view, you can then open it and set it's height and Offset from wall - setting a Negative offset will push it into the wall, so if the niche is 3" deep -3" Offset will flush it to the niche's back surface.

I think this tends to happen more for common materials, things like, "color - white" etc., because you can find them in different catalogs. I think they're literally different versions of the same material. That's why I always check Plan Materials first, over adding from the Library.