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Everything posted by TeaTime
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I'm not sure what you're asking for.
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Room Not Defining - Therefore, no roof, no floor.
TeaTime replied to KnotSquare's topic in General Q & A
Check your Exterior Wall Defaults -
The main thing to remember with Auto Roofs is that the roofs are built over Rooms, and their heights are set off ceilings. Temporarily setting ceiling heights is often the key to get the auto roofs to work right. The most simple example of what you're aiming for though is simply this: All exterior walls w/ siding facing outward, all four vertical walls set to Full Gable roof. Raise the middle room's ceiling and Auto build roof. The inner walls build up to create the inset gables. Simple! Kind of. There's more that needs to be done, but there's a lot of resources on roofs, both manual and automatic.
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Looking at this pic I'd think that would be essentially a giant manual dormer, sort of. It's a pretty specific style so I doubt Chief will have anything on exactly that but you could certainly use a lot of the same Manual Dormer techniques. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/1521/manually-drawing-dormers.html?playlist=95 I find most dormer tutorials talk about using roof Holes, but because the raised roof appears to straddle the lower one, you'd want to break and pull the larger, lower roof plane's ridge edge down to create a large opening where you could then draw the Exterior walls inside of, then manually draw roof planes as needed.
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For anyone else who can't natively view HEICs: (it's good to use PNG or JPG - also ppl like plans to work with too)
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Pretty sure they just don't work in doorways. It'd probably work fine if the doorway and wall were removed and the header area were a soffit or something. Otherwise, slip in a 3D Solid of the same thickness as the backsplash - those things can exist anywhere they please.
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I don't use that dialog (I prefer just navigating in the Project Browser, don't need to remember which page number is which), but when I tested it just now it seems fine. Different layouts, closed and reopened the program. I assume you have the general Preference Save Dialog Position set to Always or Session? Maybe set it to Never, close and relaunch and set it back.
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Room Not Defining - Therefore, no roof, no floor.
TeaTime replied to KnotSquare's topic in General Q & A
Looking at this again this morning, your Exterior Wall Defaults are in that state, No Room Def checked and disabled. There's no way to draw an exterior wall with that tool and create a defined room. Looking closer at the wall defaults, it looks like you'd accidentally set them to be Furred by default -- on the Structure panel, look under the Double Wall settings and set it to Frame Through. Do that both on the existing Bay walls that are misbehaving and your exterior wall defaults so that tool can work normally again. And be careful in those Defaults dialogs in he future -
Room Not Defining - Therefore, no roof, no floor.
TeaTime replied to KnotSquare's topic in General Q & A
This is correct though I don't know why. FWIW, selecting just outside an Exterior wall you'll be able to select the "Exterior Room" It'll indicate where room definition problems are at -- see it wrapping into that room at the Bay. NORMALLY you should be able to just open those walls and uncheck "No Room Definition", but they're checked and greyed out? I'm not sure what causes that, though I swear I've run into it before. It shouldn't be possible as far as I'm concerned. Quickest way is just redraw them. -
Toolbar Layout Changes when Customize Toolbars is Closed
TeaTime replied to 5FT-20Designs's topic in General Q & A
This came up a bit ago - looking at your screenshots I think it's the same thing: Solution there was specifically Unlocking the toolbars before re-arranging them. -
I would definitely suggest looking at the spherical backdrop options in the Camera spec backdrop panel. It allows you to control how the backdrop is stretched across the inside of a big orb around your model. You can pull the top down, lift the bottom up, etc. It takes some playing with but that's probably the best way to really control how the backdrop behaves.
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Oh! Huh. Yeah most things in chief like to move orthogonally, and the Enter Coords dialog tracks the objects movement, but not windows. I guess I've never noticed the difference. But I don't think there's any override, probably just something their engineers should look at fixing.
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Yeeah, I got curious once and played with those libraries too--"once" being the operative word there. Nothing seemed to work. I think there's some metadata in the files that tells them what to be. In short: Chief has to make those, we can only make User Catalogs.
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I'm fairly positive it's just showing the distance/angle you've moved your mouse from the original handle location. So in this instance if you'd grabbed a window handle that was on the outside edge, and dragged it over to the outside snap of the wall, it'd be -180. But for windows I don't think it matters since they can't be pulled out of a wall - just set the distance and it should be good.
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Framing, Walls layer is on in your 3D view layer set?
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Oh, I typically find it's safest to at least mockup the whole house. Though you may be "just building an attic" right now, wait til that client comes back with more requests. That plan file may end up needing 2 floors below it - it's safer to model at least a basic shell and then just focus on the one area you're actually working on. Helps with camera views as well.
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You'll want to use Save As to create copies of the as-built in order to create different variants. Sadly Chief doesn't have a lot built in to immediately streamline this process but they have a bunch of videos on this topic: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/search/?default_tab=all&q=remodel
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Exterior wall not disappearing when uploaded to 3D viewer cloud.
TeaTime replied to Watkins's topic in General Q & A
I'm not entirely sure that the option to hide exterior walls translates to the viewer, it sure sounds like it doesn't. You may have to just manually mark specific walls as Invisible before exporting. -
I pity the fool who types too slow!
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If I were to throw a guess at the wall, I'll bet those moldings aren't dropping, but rather the rest of the post is raising. Moldings follow absolute heights while millwork objects follow the finished floor height, so when its placed into a room it's jumping up some in order to rest on the floor. You could check the post's Elevation Reference and set it to Absolute, but I think you'll have an overall better time if you select all of the components of this post and convert it all into a symbol so that it'll be a single item.
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Oh, that's why. It's potentially rare that a single line will fulfil said criteria. Drew a diagonal line and it worked fine. I stand corrected amended.
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Maybe I'm just tired after a long tea-filled weekend but boy that comes off condescending to me, especially when A few things though, in that thread you stated "You can't block a single line" -- though yes, you certainly can. You just can't use a single line CAD Block to load custom muntins (**EDIT: in some situations - see below**) But you also weirdly glossed over @Alaskan_Son's perfectly viable and arguably much easier solution: Draw your CAD Line, place a text box, leave it empty and just hit OK, then select both the CAD Line and the empty Text box, Block, select window and Load Muntin.
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Yo, it only shows up under the right conditions. Pull up Help or slap that F1 and search "Load Muntin", there's a topic that explains it all pretty well.
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I've fought with this before and: No--but kinda. Line styles, like patterns, are all universal. I think they start their repetition from 0,0 - so all gaps will line up, they're not related to the line. However if you go to your CAD Preferences, the "Endcap Printed Length" setting allows a certain amount of line to always be present on the ends (remember it's printed length, so 1/16" is typically fine) so at LEAST the corners will be filled no matter what. but as you can see, the gaps still line up with one another, regardless of the line's position.
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Corner boards are pretty simple objects, they automatically detect their appropriate "top" and "bottom" heights, and they report in Absolute values, which is handy. If all the corner boards are spanning both floors, what I would do is open one of them on floor 2 and check it's Top height, then use Marquee Select Similar to select all corner boards on Floor 2 and delete them. Then, on Floor1, use Marquee Select Similar again and set all of their Top heights to whatever the Floor 2 ones were at. The only downside is they'll only appear on Floor 1 floor plans - but I don't know that not seeing corner boards in a plan is the end of the world, I'd just hide that layer.