DBCooper

You can rent X15 at $199/month whenever you need it instead of renting it for a whole year. You could even rent HD Pro at $59/month. Just be aware that the Pro version won't be able to do everything that Premier can so you might open your plan and find some things are locked.

You should be able to make one yourself pretty easy. Just need to make sure your panel material is separate from your frame material. You should only have to build one and when the door is doubled it should just work. You probably don't need to make the hardware as part of the door symbol either. MarkMC posted something a while back on how to make door symbols here: https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/36470-custom-door-maker-plan/

...and here is a video too if you want. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/261/offsetting-deck-railings.html?playlist=94

Yes, in older versions you could make a copy of the layer set at the time you sent a view to the layout. Newer versions are setup to just use the layer sets in your plan so if you want to have your views to use different layer sets then you will have to set them up in your plan. So I think the problem you are having is that all 3 of your layout views are linked to the same "saved plan view". When you change the layer set in the saved plan view, then all 3 of your layout views will change. You need to either have 3 separate saved plan views or you need to unlink your layout views from the saved plan view. Personally, I would use the 3 different saved plan views each with their own layer set. Chief actually has some pretty good videos on saved plan views that might help: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/2421/saved-plan-views.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/2433/developing-saved-plan-views.html?playlist=84 https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10199/productivity-tips-saved-plan-views.html?playlist=171

So I am going to guess that your upper windows are in the attic wall that is on the floor above the room. If they are on the floor above, then the schedule won't show them in the same room. I don't think schedules can figure out that rooms can be on more than one floor. You could try placing the windows on the wall on the floor below and then dragging them up to the attic wall in an elevation view. You might need to hold the control key down to drag the windows up through the missing platform. In the picture below, W02 is on floor 2 in the attic wall so it has no room. W03 was placed on the floor 1 wall and then moved up to the attic wall so it shows the room name. Another thing you could do is to create a room on the floor above using invisible walls and then name it whatever you want just so that the room name shows up in the schedule the way you want it to.

Yes, I would model that drawer front using solids and then convert it into a cabinet door/drawer symbol. This tech article can walk you through it: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01808/creating-a-custom-door.html There is also a video: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/5532/creating-a-custom-cabinet-door.html

If these are integrated handles that are part of the door, they need to be created from the start using different materials. The ones in the core libraries were created with just one material so you can't change them. It would be pretty easy to make your own using two objects, like using a counter top with an edge molding only on the sides where you want the integrated handle. You would then need to convert it into a cabinet door symbol to use for your cabinets. Here is a tech article about making custom door symbols that might help: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01808/creating-a-custom-door.html

I think the home designer versions will always build the framing automatically. In Chief, you will probably need to build the framing yourself. You could also set it up to build automatically but this might slow things down a bit more so building it when you need it usually works better.

I don't know if you can setup your edge line defaults ahead of time, but you can always open the layout box dialog and change them after you have sent the view. If you want to use the line weights and colors from the layers in the section view, then just don't check "use edge line defaults" in the send to layout dialog.

"Post the plan" means attach a copy of the plan to your post so that someone else can download it and see if they have the same problem. You usually have to make a zip or archive version of the plan in order to attach it because this forum has limits on how big an attached file can be. Some times you need to remove extra stuff to try and make the plan file smaller so you can attach it. Some people prefer to put a link to a plan file on a cloud account when it is too big to post. In your case, I really suspect that it is just a video card or driver issue (like it turned out to be for DT). If all else fails, then you might want to contact tech support.

Just change the height of it, up/down a mm should do the trick.

Soffits will auto join that way, just like cabinets. You could turn off "create auto fillers" in the "general cabinet defaults". Or use something other than soffits, like framing, poly solids, wall material regions, slabs, or whatever...

Apparently, if you delete a room label, the program turns off "show room label" for the room. It looks like if you delete them using "delete objects", by checking "text", you can also turn them off for the whole floor or even all floors. Looks like this has come up before too:

I have only seen it in the pony wall defaults. The other settings for which part of the pony wall displays looks like it is in the pony wall defaults, the wall dialog, and in the saved plan view dialog.

If you are using X15, all you need to do is search for "drinking fountain" in the library browser. You should then see the wall mounted ones available in one of the bonus catalogs. If you click on it to place it, the program will ask you if you want to download it. If you have SSA it's free and it will just work. This is one of the things I actually like about the new library browser in X15 since it is so much easier to find stuff. If you are still using an older version, you can always go to the online library and manually download it. It's in Commercial No.04 Fixtures.

If you are going to keep the single stringer with open risers, then I would probably just use something like a p-solid underneath to use as a ceiling above the closet. I'm not really sure how this would look in the real world though. If you want a different style stair over the closet, then you could use a "complete" break, shift select the upper section, and change the settings so that it has a closed riser on it instead.

So the ones I am showing in Chief look pretty close to what you are showing in your picture. What do you need that is different?

Did you even look before you started shouting at me?

In Adam's picture, he is using "upper wall and lower wall outline". In this case, the setting seems to affect it, in your case, maybe not. Since Adam didn't post a plan, we are still just guessing.

It looks like there might be some in the library that would work. I just searched for "drinking" and a few showed up that could be downloaded.

If you have manual roof planes, and you change the roof plane defaults, they probably won't change. You would either need to rebuild the roof or edit all of the roof planes. BTW, there is a tool for editing all the roof planes which can be handy in cases like this.

The only other thing I can think of to check is if you have "display openings in non-display parts of walls" set to "always" in your pony wall defaults. If it's not this, then you should probably post your plan.

Suppress label does not get rid of the schedule callout like it used to. I think this changed when they added the ability to show both labels and callouts. You need to open the wall dialog, go to the schedule page, and either turn off "include in schedule" or "show schedule callout".

It looks like your window is sitting right on top of the lower wall. You could try raising it up just a tad. You might also try playing around with the rough opening and concrete cutout settings to see if they affect it.

I guess you need to look at what is different between the door you have that works and the one that doesn't. Maybe a stretch plane or origin issue? BTW, it does not seem to be related to how complicated the door is. See my toilet doors below.