RL-inc

I do similar to Scott and Java - send my main floor plan to it's layout page and then send subsequent plan views to that page and point to point move to align. then move the new view to it's proper page.

Gonna need a big cricket there or something.

Any chance the camera is locked?

Larry and Lewis- While I agree that the way CA's structure tab can be confusing the fact is that the changes made in room "A" most often have great effect on room "B" if they are located on adjacent floors and at least partially aligned- which is a very common condition in residential construction. IMO CA is just offering the "reaction to the action" in most cases.

Glenn- Thanks for the tip on adjusting floor and ceiling heights in section- never knew and can't wait to implement that technique.

Larry- I actually think that the real way to look at it is that the ceiling below and the floor above are essentially one and the same. The joists that create that structure are providing both the upper floor and lower ceiling framing so CA is seeing it in the real world application IMO. (We may be saying the same thing but just in a different way.)

Generally when I download online CA catalogs I save as to a specific folder not a random folder chosen by CA. Then easy to locate and import.

I like that look Eric- a style of exterior attachment that is getting popular here in central Oregon. Gary, As Eric said you need to build the new cover in the main plan so that you can adjust the existing components to match the new cover. That is the only way to get the full model to work right.

As long as they are 1/2" over in any direction and not under

To piggyback on Richard's comments you need to research what the local codes will require and verify that the way you plan to frame the structure is consistent with them. It appears that the turret style roof you are showing will be vaulted on the ceiling but the material you are showing is run parallel to the roof framing, I doubt that is what you area really intending to do. Also the wall that will be above the French doors will need to frame up to close off the existing roof above in some fashion. Just a couple of things I noticed. My biggest suggestion I would offer is to use CA to get the general design down and then make sure that YOU fully understand how this will be built and what YOU want the end result to be. Your project and experience will be much more positive in the end.

Not at my computer to check for sure but you should be able to add to the ro in the framing dialog. Won't auto adjust for each opening based on the number of units though- it will have to be done manually for each one.

Spell check really dropped the ball on that one.

Glad to hear I am doing it the right way. Well ,one of the right ways.... I am sure there are many.

Actually this is the premis I use for all my drawing and layout association. I keep my layout templte in a separate file and bring a copy over to the plan folder I want to work on. This layout file is linked to the plan files that contain my details and notes. As I move forward in the desing with new revisions I just copy both plan and layout files to the new revision folder then rename and relink.

Not sure but I think this belongs in the seeking servers forum...

Fairly simple unless I am missing something~ Just copy material and rename "material" 90 Then rotate paternity and texture angles 90 degrees.

Thanks much

+1 on Eric's rep

Chad - As Joey said above - Keep it simple on your layout's. (Side Note- Joey's layouts are excellent and are a great template to duplicate- I believe he has offered to share or tutor in a previous thread.) Well organized views and notes established in a clean template will serve you well for 99% or residential projects. Having worked in the field for many years I always preferred simple uncluttered drawings vs. elaborate layout pages full of details and notes that did not pertain to the actual project at hand.

That was my next thought

Looked through the Ref manual but no luck- Is there a way to set the default of Arch blocks to not display the bounding block when created? I am always opening cabinet blocks or the like to uncheck that dbx.

I would never specify cut header lengths- way too many variables in the field. Only header size and material. Depending on the actual window or door configuration for multiple units, the framer may span 1 header across multiple openings and that length would dictate multiple trimmers at the ends when in reality the actual spans do not require them. In my plan notes I have specs for number of trimmers based on clear rough opening span and header size. Coming from a long time framer -the carpenter on your project should have known better than to go off of cut header lengths called out on a plan. It was always my responsibility to make sure that I had the proper RO's framed for the units to be installed.

Anna- To follow up on Eric's point- Get used to checking alignment from the first floor up and down by using align with wall above / below tool. Also use reference display to verify proper alignment. Just like real world construction- if it's off on the bottom it will be WAY off at the top.

+1

I thought dual 27" would get the job done - but guess not