Gawdzira

Hello Jerry, Some notes for you basedongawdzira V1A.plan

Not your project but a similar one in program (ADU) that I am working on now. I am on the coast of California so we don't need the mudroom type entry.

1. Is this in N.H.? If so, a slab might not be a great choice due to insulation and frost heave. It is a good question for a local builder or architect. A slab can save you a lot of money 2. the bathroom is o.k. but I would reconsider the vanity space. That is not a lot of counter space even if just for one person. 3. Heat pump heating systems are very efficient. Will you have solar panels? If so, you could end up with net zero with a well insulated house and a heat pump heating system. Also take a look at the radiant panels by Mighty Energy http://mightyenergy.net/ 4. Your space planning is o.k. but not great by any means and there are some bright red flags that I would suggest changing. a. the entry is very compressed. Also, if you are in a cold climate, don't you want a distinct entry so you don't open the front door and lose all your heat? b. the closets are at odd and not useful sizes. Unless the closet is a walk in, having it be only slightly larger than 25" deep is not practical. It is also a hassle for accessibility. And, based on your post, accessibility is the key here. The walk in closet needs to be a minimum of 80" wide. Even at 80" it is a challenge to have 2 rows of clothes and comfortable isle. Any smaller than 80" and you are better off at 60" with clothes on one side. c. The living area does not work well for furniture or flow. I would not lay the house out like this. Unless the key element is to have the bedrooms on opposite sides of the house, I would change this layout. For a house this small, to create the kitchen in it's own room is really hurting you. A more open plan would work a lot better. d. 25'10" makes no sense. Start this design with whole numbers and even numbers are better than odd. Make that 26' x 44'

I would consider a methodology to avoid attic / roof venting altogether. If you put a layer of rigid insulation on top of the roof sheathing you can avoid the need to ventilated the roof. The thickness of the insulation will vary according to your climate zone. I am very paranoid about any roof vents. Roof and eave vents are the most common ways for fire embers to enter a house. If you must use vents, look for fire safe venting options.

Holy guacamole. I am glad I looked at this thread. That code item is banana-pants.

Thanks. I was looking at the wrong wall to drag that plane to. Thanks for being that fresh set of eyes.

I have an odd situation. I am doing a very small offset of 2 walls. Sure, the easy fix is to align the walls but they don't call me uneasy Al for nothin'. in the images you can see that the roof framing is ignoring the attic wall and using the wall below to get the framing info so that 3d model is getting messed up by the framing members. I can delete the framing but then the soffit is short. In the image with the trapezoid highlighted, that is a hack fix for the siding. It is under a layer called Walls Hack Fix. Any ideas on a way to deal with this? Moving the walls is not the answer I am looking for. Help me Mr. Wizard (for you Millennial's, Mr. Wizard was a hero of mine, as are most reptiles) x12 file LinCor start dd v4 b.zip

When I sketch, I am at the same seat as when I use my keyboard. I will just move my keyboard out of the way and work with some trace paper or a drawing pad. Therefore I am generally using the light of my monitor. I would suggest you work on a filter/magnifier of light from the monitor. No additional energy but a modification for the energy being used right in front of me.

Joey has the correct answer for the drafting. It depends on the goal. If it is to get the drafted look, then Joey has the fastest solution. If you are trying to get an accurate representation of how to build this and a complete materials take off to order from, then you would need to take a chill pill and still do it the way Joey suggested.

Here is a little sign of the times. Masked image with library file and mask crop with transparency in the link. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5xya1cs0xmok0jn/AADZoPlmLpjsBvMWkPrkCrfma?dl=0

Use a Back Clipped cross section view.

Did you ever see the movie Pitch Black? The daytime scenes from that film is what we are living. Eerie as F.

Yes. When I did the cad lines for my layout it was back in the golden age of an unmasked population and lack of grid control.

If you want it to print, just make some cad lines and copy/repeat. I have a layer for my 11x17 sheets in a light gray for when I want to have a 1/4" or 1/8" grid display for sketching or field work.

Good to know. I am fortunate to have all my work currently within a few miles of my house (where the only snow is flocking at the tree lot in December).

If the interior vapor barrier is a code item, generally a painted drywall surface becomes that vapor barrier.

IF you do use an interior vapor barrier. Look at Intello as a solution since it is vapor open. https://foursevenfive.com/products/air-sealing-system/?_bc_fsnf=1&Application=Interior

Rocky, I realize that you asked for technical information and I am stepping way out of line here. Feel free to flame me, cancel me or edit me out of people who you see posts from. Please do not do this (meaning that entry portico. This is really, really far out of scale and proportion for a residential setting. Get a copy of Get Your House Right to use as a guide when making these sort of decisions. Or, hire a good(or even great) designer to help you with this project. https://www.google.com/books/edition/Get_Your_House_Right/lovAS1e2pWMC?hl=en&gbpv=1&printsec=frontcover

1000 words

Here is the CA file from that image. shed dormer.plan

To be honest, I was really hoping for a heated discussion on fenestration and dormer design proportions.

1000 words

Plan file, layout file or camera views? Did you close CA and restart?

I thought I had an answer for this (in the Symbols forum page) but now I have a question. I wanted to show an example of changing the grout color on the existing file. Here are the steps to do that in pics but basically 1. I did a back up entire plan for the plan file which is an easy way to get the image file for your tile. 2. I edited that in Photoshop for a darker grout color and saved the image as a .png 3. when I brought that back in I needed to rescale the image in order for it to align with the old image This seems odd to me. If I took the exact image from the material file, why did it come back in at a different scale. The original file had it at 8" x 7" but I needed to both resize and offset. The image files loaded in backwards so read them in named numerical order (from the bottom up on my screen).

A good time was had by all.