glennw

This may help a little. You could then go back to Drawing Sheet Setup and check Remember Print Settings After Printing. Uncheck Update Automatically. This will remember the Current Sheet setting and will only display the current sheet. Downside is that it will remember the other settings as well - but that may not be a problem if your print jobs use the same settings.

The Material List will give you individual wall lengths and a total length for each wall type.

Does this not help?

Tom, If you want to send me the plan or post it here, I will give it a go on my machine and see what happens. PS, I just noticed that the last posts in this thread go back to 2017 - 3 years ago. Much has changed since then.

Chopsaw, You need to turn off Auto Rebuild Terrain as well or the terrain keeps generating. Thinks like Terrain Features maintain their shape when Clear terrain is used.

I think they are referring to the actual shaping of the site - ie, contouring the site.

Seems like you answered your own question. I must say that I have done some very complicated sites in the past and have never once had to use Clear Terrain.

This Picture Box to which I have added a red fill for clarity.

One at a time. For the end walls with the exposed framing. All you need is a wall definition that contains a framing material for the main layer like the attached pic. No need to build a wall and do manual framing. You can then just draw the wall and build framing for that one wall if you don't want to build all the framing. I noticed that you have Auto Rebuild Walls/Floors/Ceiling toggled off. This should normally be toggled on in most cases to keep the model updated as you work. You also have an unused Picture File Box over the living area - is that doing something?

Also be aware that there is really no such thing as an "interior" or "exterior" wall tool - these terms are a bit misleading. They are just two different wall tools and either one can be used as an interior or exterior wall. The 2 wall tools may as well just be called "wall type 1" and "wall Type 2". Chief recognises the difference between and "exterior" or "interior" wall by it's location in the model - not by the wall tool used to draw the wall.

Well, if you haven't built the roof why would you expect one to display?

Silly question, but have you built a roof? PS. You really don't need Shelf Ceiling or Use Soffit Surface for Ceiling checked.

Sott, Is that the same building you had the same truss problems with, about a year ago? Did we sort it out or is it a new problem?

What I would like to know is how are you ever going to build it with the lower pony wall protruding out in front of the upper pony wall.

You can do it if you are happy to use one of the other 3 marker types (Test Boring, Point Marker, Framing Reference) that only allow 1 line of text.

I'm not sure I follow you. Can't we already get windows as close as we want?

No they aren't. Your exterior casings are off - your interior casings on on. It is the interior casings that are causing the auto mulling.

Yes, it is what I said - Automatic Mulling. Occurs when the casings touch. In this case it is caused by the size of the internal casings. Chief will "join" the windows with a single casing - same as like you would do in real life. If the windows were dragged together closer than the casing width, what would you want to happen? Delete the casings? Overlap the casings? Make 1 small and 1 big?.......... Auto mulling is different from manual mulling in that the windows remain as individual windows whereas with manual mulling the windows join together to form a single window unit.

Windows will automatically mull together when their internal casings touch? Although without a plan it is a bit hard to tell what is happening in this case.

Larry, Yes, I deleted my post, so as not to confuse. I was about to post it and then re-read the other posts and realised that my method was very similar to Michael's. Instead of his method using retain Floor/ceiling Framing and dragging wall up and down, I use a Deck for the room definition. turned of auto framing and checked Retain Deck Framing.

You create a Wall Cutout Polyline by opening the symbol specification dbx and on the options panel, checking Inserts into wall. While you are there, enter the Depth as 6". Select the window and on the Edit toolbar click Edit Wall Cutout Polyline. Oh, I had to change the Y Position Origin Offset to -6" to get the window in the correct location in 3D and cut a hole. That all works for 3D. You will probably have to create a new 2D cad block for the wall hole in plan view. I see you using the Edit Wall Cutout Polyline in the video. If you don't have a Wall Cutout Polyline, why are you using Edit Wall Cutout Polyline? 1966953791_version6 GLENN.plan

I can't see the edit toolbar - it is cut off. Why are you using a passthrough to make the wall hole? The Wall Cutout Polyline does that.

You don't have a ceiling finish specified, therefore there is no ceiling. Room Specification dbx>Structure panel>Ceiling>Ceiling Finish.

You can use the Delete Surfaces tool to temporarily delete the parts of the symbol you don't want. You can then save what is left as a symbol for reuse.

Elevation Regions are your friend - the site will auto grade between regions. Terrain retaining walls are your enemy, as are Elevation Points. Use Terrain Breaks with elevation lines top and bottom instead of retaining wall and then add a normal wall. Control the house height with the Subfloor Height Above Terrain setting. How do you want the house to sit on the site - it doesn't look too bad. I also try and avoid the modifiers like Flat Region as you don't have absolute control of their height like an Elevation Region.