rlackore

Joe, Are we talking about this dbx? Because I don't see any fine print. Maybe we're referring to different export methods?

Not according to all of my experimentation. Try it yourself. Export an image with a backdrop and the checkbox selected, and you'll still get the backdrop. The Reference Manual clearly states: "Check Transparent Background to produce alpha transparency in the spaces between objects that can be seen in the current view." Doesn't that imply that Chief must "know" what an object is, and which objects are in the current view?

Joe, Perhaps I mistunderstood Scott's question. I assumed he is referring to EXPORTING, not importing. According to the Reference Manual: To me this implies that when exporting an image from a camera view the background should be transparent (and I'm assuming a backdrop is NOT an object and should therefore not be exported).

Can you attach the plan (or at least the material definition as a library item)?

There is this option: when saving the image, but I can't get it to work. Every picture I export with this option checked still yields a background. The Reference Manual provides no insight.

Also works fine for me.

I use Microsoft OneNote (very similar to Evernote). You can create checklists, store emails and webpages, annotate and format, etc. Collaboration is accomplished by "sharing", but obviously whoever you share with must also use OneNote.

It's important to remember that CA includes the sill plate (mud sill) within the defined height of the stem wall. Here's an excerpt from the Reference Manual:

Have you tried raytracing to a file instead of to the screen? That may help diagnose whether it's a graphic card / display driver issue.

I'd just hip that intersection:

If you change the material using the eyedropper, it will over-ride any change you make within the Wall Type definition. You could try the following to see if it helps: Select the "exterior room" by clicking immediately adjacent and to the exterior side of any exterior wall: ...then click on the Open Object tool, navigate to the Materials tab, select the Exterior Walls component, click on the Select Material button, and assign the Use Default material: ...this will reset all the material changes you've made to the exterior walls using the eyedropper. Now you can change the material definition within the Wall Type definition and you should see the result in 3D. EDIT: Chopsaw beat me to it.

CA can import elevation data from an ASCII text file in several formats: Civil 3D can export data points to ASCII in many pre-defined or custom formats, so if you tell them how you want it formatted, they should be able to accommodate you.

AFAIK, Revit files can only be opened/viewed/modified/exported within Revit. Exporting from Revit can be tricky - the defaults don't always provide the desired results, so sometimes there is trial and error involved. If you don't need a specific manufacturer, why don't you post a request in the Symbols and Content forum? Someone may already have some symbols that will work for you.

Nice. Thanks.

I don't think it's worth the effort. I transitioned to Chief from AutoCAD, and tried to set up my Chief hotkeys to match my AutoCAD keyboard shortcuts, and it was a total failure. Also, most AutoCAD jockeys make extensive use of LISP routines, each with their own keyboard commands.

We've suggested better control over the coordinate system for many versions - still no joy.

You change it in the Annoset Marker definition. But keep in mind that this setting is for ALL Markers, not just the ones used by Point-to-Point Dimensions.

Michael may be correct. Quite often some of the AutoCAD entities that are imported will be blocked. If that's the case you need to explode them first.

Very nice Michael.

Like Scott said, or just draw a few simple CAD lines to show the landing, a few risers, and a break line - anyone who cares can just flip to the first floor plan for the stair details.

Before I let Chief run wild with roof framing, I always print a roof plan, lay down some bumwad, and hand-draw a conceptual framing plan. This forces me to critically think about the framing and helps me identify and address any unusual conditions. Then, when I draw the truss in Chief, I can use the result as a check against my concept, and vice-versa. I modify each truss, or alter the underlying plan conditions, as necessary. This is a systematic method, and it takes time, but I've found it has great benefit, especially when reviewing the truss shop drawings. It may be a step too far for some folks, but I develop framing plans and schedules for every project, so I consider it part-and-parcel of the job.

This is how I do metal buildings: 1. Review the metal building manufacturer's drawings. Make sure you understand the column layout, how the columns relate to the slab, the wall and roof systems, etc.Ensure the drawings are correct - at least relative to the architectural intent - because metal building designers aren't perfect. Are the sidewall girts flush, inset, or outset? Where does the exterior face of the cladding fall in relation to the slab edge? 2. Draw the slab. 3. Lay out the column gird. I also create 2D CAD blocks of each column and base - I find it helps me when it comes time to design the interior build-out. 4. Create a wall type for the exterior walls; I include everything, from the exterior cladding to the interior liner panel, or in your case, the 2x4 infill wall assembly. Draw this around the slab perimeter. Cut a section to ensure you've got the wall elements lining up correctly in relation to the slab edge. 5. If there is a mezzanine I create a second floor; otherwise throw on the roof, then cut a section to verify you've got the assembly and heights correct. The rest is just normal stuff; lay out your interior, put in the windows, doors, and what-not. Special exterior elements like your entry trusses can be tacked on without much trouble. I manually create my wall sections because around here we have to detail the building's thermal envelope; this is why it's really important to have a complete understanding of the manufacturer's wall and roof systems, the insulation strategy, etc.

I set up a hotkey.

A pony wall is the right way to go. The key is to set the framing to hang from the foundation wall, either by selecting all the foundation walls and using this checkbox: ...or by setting it in Defaults>Walls>Foundation Wall. The only thing that Chief won't do is draw the second sill plate - you'll have to do that manually: EDIT: Joey beat me to the punch.

I'm not aware of any automatic method to model in 3D the insulation between the stud spaces. "The other thing going on here is if you read the BSC doc it begs the question about the need for controversial house wrap, and whether the small gap it produces is effective?" You may want to read Lstiburek's BSC-038 Mind the Gap, Eh! "Interesting part is according to test with these gaps, there is only a 1% chance of either vapor or liquid water reaching any house wrap or substrate (insulation, drywall, etc)." Lstiburek makes an assumption - and interpreting it as a 1% chance is misleading; he's making a prediction of volume, not probability - he assumes that 1.0E-5 (0.00001) percent of bulk water hitting any given area of a wall assembly will make it through the water control layer to the substrate. For 1 liter of bulk water, that's only 0.07 ml. That's not a lot of water, which is why modern housewraps can be effective with moisture control. Remember that a housewrap is - first and foremost - an air barrier and a water control layer. A grooved or crinkled product (like Tyvek Drainwrap) promotes hygric redistribution across the face of the wall. This enhances the ability of the sheathing (OSB, plywood, etc.) to cope with the infiltration of bulk water, and reduces the risk of moisture damage. "How is it so many homes did well for centuries before house wrap was ever created?" Perhaps this was a rhetorical question. But if it wasn't, the reason we didn't have problems before housewrap has nothing to do with housewrap. We've used housewraps for a long, long time: before synthetics we used asphalt-impregnated felt or paper. Plastic housewraps appeared around the same time as the other factors that led to under-performing walls: polyethylene sheeting, vinyl wall coverings, OSB, etc. Before we started installing vapor barriers (in cold climates) and packing the cavities with batt insulation, walls could dry to the inside or the outside. Water was getting in, but it could also easily get out. The wetting of the wall materials was temporary and produced few problems. "It's about time, now designers have to get it into homes..." We are. So are builders - at least in my neck of the woods. In some cases the builders have been ahead of the designers.