rlackore

Hmm. According to the section I've got one slab.

Here is one way:

Yep.

I don't know a lot about how cabinets are built, but I was assuming that there must be a "standard" way of modifying the box construction without tacking on a molding at the bottom. So I was wondering if there was a something in the cabinet dbx that I was missing.

That is a lot more complex work-around than adding a molding to a wall cabinet.

Is there a method to achieve this: to hide under-cabinet lighting, without having to apply a molding to the bottom?

Your roof planes/intersections are a mess: Clean them up and it will be fixed:

I wouldn't sweat the 1/16" accuracy - that's what truss component manufacturer's are used to anyway.

I use callouts with a schedule. My projects typically have so many types, sizes, configurations, and connection details that a schedule is necessary.

Mark was pointing you in the right direction. Change to Distance Rounding and you're golden.

I know nothing about Ruby, but I futzed around with Joe's macro and was able to make it work to output acres: referenced ? obj=referenced : obj=owner (obj.area / 43560).round(2) But it seems that my user-defined macros are saved with the plan file, so I have to export/import them to share them among plans and users. I'm also curious why they export as a .json file instead of as a Ruby script. I've saved the .json files in my default Ruby directory, but they don't automatically load when I open Chief (shouldn't they?).

No, just %Header_Elevation%.

If these are your settings: then it should display 2'-8". I suggest opening the dimension line Specification dbx to check that it's actually using the default settings for your 1/4" dimension style.

There is an Exterior Room - essentially it's a "virtual" space around the perimeter of the exterior walls and it's used to define Wall Coverings and Materials. Click just outside any exterior wall (you may need to tab through the selection) and it will highlight. Open up the dbx and you can adjust the material to Use Default.

Maybe try selecting the Exterior Room and set the Materials>Wall to Use Default. That will reset any "painting" that's been done to exterior wall materials.

Glen and Michael, I appreciate the help. It's a clever method, but I'm not sure it's worth having an accurate mullion depth if I lose the frame in both plan and 3D view. Creating symbols out of every window group (again, I have 63), is just too time consuming. I'm going to leave my request in the Suggestion forum because I feel it's an issue that Chief should address. Thank you.

Nope, I didn't. Frame>Fit to Wall doesn't make a difference. Setting the Y Stretch Plane to -1" does. Now the remaining issues are: 1. I don't have control over the interior vs exterior trim materials, or the sill materials. 2. I need to build the actual drywall returns into the symbol to fix crazy z-fighting where the frame doesn't cover the wall depth. 3. Figure out if all this hassle is worth it for the 61 unique windows groups in my project. Thanks for your help, Joe.

I can't get that to work. I created the symbol in a wall with a total depth of 6-1/2". Here's a pic of it inserted into the 6-1/2" wall: When I insert the symbol into a my 11" deep ICF wall, the mullions adjust to that depth: This behavior is easily confirmed by cutting a couple sections: But, maybe I did something wrong. I'm also having a problem with the symbol's CAD block position in plan, but that's a separate issue. windows.plan

Yes - drywall returns.

Those walls are set as Invisible. Uncheck Wall Specification>General>Options>invisible and they will show up. AFAIK, turning on the layer Walls, Invisible doesn't matter in 3D view, only plan.

Essentially, yes.

You inset the windows within the wall. I'm keeping the windows flush with the outside of the ICF form for flashing purposes and to provide a ledge on the interior.

What would be nice is if we could work with window groups in a fashion similar to how we can work with cabinets: divide horizontal, divide vertical, adjust widths and depths until we get the overall divisions correct, then "insert" the actual windows into each division just like adding an appliance. This would work great for storefronts, also. Ideally, the overall opening in the wall would be treated like a punched opening, which would solve my deep interior mullion issue.

Yes, I need the structural mull: Exposure Category C, top of a hill with about 1/3 mile fetch. Regardless, setting the distance between the windows to 0" doesn't remove the deep interior mullion:

Alright, I check the Bucking Window thread. It's really not pertinent to my issue.