MarkMc

I need a mix and use Annosets to control different layer/dimension set combinations, some to rock, others to framing. Took time to set up and currently trying to pare them down but worth the effort for me.

Maybe someday we'll be able to toggle doors, drawers and shelves... and maybe even snap to rails and stiles to keep it "live"

Anything like this?? I often send in something like this along with the plans, elevations and schedule to the factory. Special openings, turnings, hoods, angled cabinets. I copy what I have in model to another room or blank wall somewhere (often a garage)- Forgot to mention- I then get rid of all the doors and drawers of the copies.... in a pinch to another plan then shoot sections elevations, then CAD detail from view- finally dimension after that. (not before). I used to use TurboCad (Deluxe) for this stuff but rarely need it since I switched to premier. Once in a while if there are really complicated dimensions. I have an earlier version of Pro and have not use that in a long long time. Deluxe is much less $$. I don't find it very friendly exporting 3D into either to turn into 2D- CA is easier IMO.

I often do what greg does. But if there need to be a lot of changes and I have the actual dimensions of the molding I convert a pdf to png, bring that in, size it, lock the layer. Then start with a pline box. That allows me to set the points to the dimensions then change what need be to curves and angles. I always stack individual moldings on a molding pline and offset there, easier to deal with client changes. So I started to keep a plan file with an assortment of straight molding plines set to different heights. Copy from that into a plan,paste and edit to fit cabinets.

Larry- your method of make parallel is the trick, remember it is also make perpendicluar. Do your corner to corner dim, make parallel but pick the interior line. At least I just did it with a quick line thrown in to a wall. (sorry no vid-flintstone here)

Thanks for the tip.

I've only had to do about 3 of these in the last five years- Pic attached. Depended on the situation what I decided. The hardest was the the one with side access glass- attached one version of that plan for reference. Built entirely from parts- Black and brown was the easiest- 1-1/2 wide cabinet- bookcase in brown, 1-1/2 in cabinet and a valance to join them. Mahogany with angled cabinets had glass shelves so just used psolids side and back to make the white interior- (lot of $$ to display toy soldiers) If you only need the back of the cabinet to be different you can use a wall material region and increase the depth, we already have control of shelves. Not that I'd put terra cotta subway tiles in a cabinet.

I use the offset method. I prefer that cabinet height in the schedule matches what I order so use zero counter thickness in the DBX.

Yeah- folks are surprised that they need outlets on the island for code and then I have to show them what they look like using various solutions, big issue with some (I see crazy people...) As to the plan view, contractors are overjoyed that a KD is even supplying an electric plan and has dealt with switch locations with the client. They could care less that the legs of the symbol are not exactly placed correctly. The outlet will still be placed on the surface no matter how it shows in plan. Mick- I used 4-3/8" which works. same problem Joe mentioned with rotating when pulling from library. Copy in place and reflect doesn't reflect the symbol as it does with others. I just moved the insertion point on the cad block- doesn't solve it but makes it easier to move to the cabinet.

I need the 3D more than the plan view. Scott said: I did 3 last year without em but they say that 75% of American women want an island... 5 want Tahiti, a few will take Manhatten and one from NJ wants Australia...

NIce easy way to fix them once you have them in plan David. But if you add that to the library and go to use it you get the "needs a wall" message. The one I made added to the library and then dragged into plan goes to the floor so you have to reset the height. If I select the existing one Scott has in place and select replace from library it doesn't go to the floor BUT is turned 90 degrees. Once rotated and moved to the face of the cabinet it looks correct in plan and 3D. Not sure which is better- place a bunch of outlets in plan and change to wall mounted- think so. OR place outlets and use replace from library then mess with them or drag from library and move it off the floor...

The one closest to camera. BBB SCOTTS CABINET ELEC OUTLET CHALLENGE 1.zip

Agree that a tool would be nice to have for a lot of reasons-even just posting a screen shot. For markup I use Bluebeam which has said tool among others. Not live BUT that can be an advantage to be sure that the markups are not changed/lost in iterations. Forgot to add that I'd love to see a plugin for Bluebeam- it exists for SU, Revit and ACAD. Then I'd spring to upgrade to the CAD version so I could also get 3D pdfs and pdf's with layers.

My God Jon, do you have stock in Campbell's?

I understand the idea of isolating a problem. Just found it odd since I keep all plan and layout files on D typically with no problems from any program. I have had occasional issues/crashes with X7 but find it hard to imagine it is the drive, as I said only occasional now. When I do get one I can get several in a row even after closing, rebooting etc. I knew they would not be able to reproduce the crash- I can't. Just talking with my new associate and he managed a crash over the weekend with copy paste in place/reflect about object- which has been one of the more consistent bugaboos for me. Thanks All.

I had an issue with a plan in X7 and sent in to tech support. Of course they can't reproduce the crash but did sent me a message stating that My C drive is an SSD , I have my Cheif Data files there. But I keep all documents on the D drive. I'd never heard this could be an issue. Do you keep you document files on the C drive?

Interesting idea Graham- I rarely place moldings in the cabinet DBX so didn't occur to me. It solves the section problem but creates extra lines in elevation. Like many things in CA, there are multiple ways to sort of do it, pick your poison. A molding Pline would address both issues. I thought it was interesting enough to try it on another persistent issue-extending doors down to cover lights in frameless- lot of work with too many other problems so will continue to do those as I have in the past. (molding pline and trad. overlay cabinet)

Interesting trick Graham, thanks for taking the time. That may be useful in the future. What I was after was an inset cabinet with a flush finished bottom.I was able to make that happen using "blank area' .It looks correct in 3D. I need a section as well though and it doesn't work properly there so have to clean that up for molding detail. I first tried using a frameless cabinet. I can set the bottom separation to 1/12" and make it inset BUT there is no control over the sides, they stay at 3/4". Then tried a trick I've used to show oven cabinet openings narrower than the the other openings on framed cabinets. Split and opening so that it gets extra vertical separations, delete the door section and move the vertical separation over to increase the apparent stile width...didn't work with the frameless cabinets though. The extra separations don't hold. I just wanted to know if there was somewhere to look for the setting. Apparently it is not accessible. Recently had to do half a dozen cabinets with a lot of cubbies/mail slots. Fortunately that changed to 3/4" construction from 5/8" at the last minute. If you change the stiles on a framed cabinet with an opening to 5/8" you get extra lines around the opening. I'd like the frameless setting to be a bit more useful.

Yeah Graham I do stuff like that all the timed, not what I'm looking for.

I needed to get a flush bottom on an inset wall cabinet and I know that frameless are flush on the bottom so thought I'd mess with making a frameless inset but discovered that I can't change the sides. They default to 3/4". I can't find where to change the default separation for the setting of "frameless"-is this accessible somewhere? In the long run this is an issue since two of my frameless suppliers offer both 3/4" and 5/8" sides depending on box material. BTW - to make an inset have a flush bottom-change the bottom separation to "blank area"

Thanks for taking the time Mick. I ran all over, was thinking annosets but couldn't figure what there (thought a lot of things in the two hours I messed with it). Tried deleting the few dims I could see which didn't help. Thought if I didn't have dims in a view that I'd get temps, guess not. This started off a pdf from architect (ft, in) and now adjusting to field measurements (in) of as built to framing, have a dozen rooms to fix. I'll just delete all dims and get to it. This is a big help thanks.

Joe, I've done that at least a dozen times- dragged the interior wall away about 12" up the y axis- just tried it 6 more -no joy. Appears to snap but nada on the WMR. What am I missing.

current settings- match the suggestion

There are a few at Sketchup 3D warehouse.

I set recent to 5, undo to 6 at 100 milliseconds (1000 eliminated undo completely?) Snappier for sure. Perry a thought- if you have CA pinned to the taskbar you can use the jump lists there- I have mine set to 12. I'm going to try 0 in CA and see if I can change habits. I use the jump list on several other progs so shouldn't be too bad.