MarkMc

I only added the move to make it easier to see- worked fine for me without.

Odd, here is what I got- with Transform replicate set to: copy, move 60ft, and reflect all at once. Have not idea what would cause it to rotate?

Transform replicate-reflect

Not necessary to convert the schedule. just select it, once highlighted copy, paste into excel.

Jon has it pretty much- Place a 21 deep cabinet next to a 24 with a 3" clip and the clip goes away. You can change either the clip depth or the cabinet depth by 1/16" and the clip returns. OTOH-If you need to place 24" deep clipped cabinets on each side of a range you will get the clip next to the range where it is unwanted. To remove clip on the range side add a 1/16" wide by 24" deep cabinet between the range and the clipped cabinet to make the clip dissappear- of course that mucks up your dimension and the schedule. I have yet to find a work around for the dimension issue.

Asked my associate- he has a 2 or 3 yo 13" MAC book pro, didn't know specs but likely lower than new stuff. Says it's pretty comparable in performance to the Dell he uses here (listed in my sig) He runs it with a second monitor but usually just has a spreadsheet or web browser on that (with 2-3 tabs open) He's pretty conservative with how many views he keeps open in CA.

I use Levi's PIP for first roughs with kitchens, usually give them 3 or 4 options. I PIP both plans and elevations, then relink to the other Save As options. Once in a final I Save As the layout, dump extra elevations and change some plan views the way Scott said. Shouldhave said Paste and hold not PIP...

Guy that is working for me sometimes runs on a 13" Mac- I'll ask him tomorrow to see what he says. In the studio he is using the Dell I have listed with a second monitor at home he uses the Mac but solo. He's just learning so I'm not sure he is as hard on it all as I am. I find the Dell slow in comparison to my Sager I think due to the video card. To your other choices- I looked into the Razers- got the impression that throttling from heat can be an issue. I don't know if CA can cause that or just games? Biggest attraction for me was the little power supply, found more bang for the buck elsewhere. Retina display- not sure but someone had a 5k Mac and was having issues because of the demands of the resolution. Realize that if you add monitors onto the video card they take resources. Passmark also linked on the Chief site gives relative ratings for cards. And I need to correct what I said about the Broadwell chips- recently read that there had been delays in delivering those. It appears more likely that the newer generation after them will be what is showing up in gaming machines- after some big gaming hooddoo this summer.

Well there is a way but may not suit your needs. You can stretch a cabinet to whatever width you want, then divide the front into however many sections you need, then use the equalize button -all in the dbx. I'd add fillers to both sides going wall to wall, and trim at the top when going to the ceiling. The question remains whether or not that will be representative of how it will be built. If you are looking for multiple cabinets then what David said.

Joey- Display link makes adapters that allow standard monitors to use a USB port. I have never used one of these so can't say how good or not they are. If it works as well as the monitors that gives you your third. I think there is a wireless one out there but whichever it was didn't appear that good. I just picked up an HDMI WiDi adapter for wireless mirroring but I haven't tried yet. For managing multiple montiors I use UltraMon-which makes mirroring only one monitor easy. There are two other programs like it and from what I can tell all are pretty similar.

Besides budget what is the intended use- primary machine/desktop replacement or occasional trips to job site or client? And what else are you running, how demanding are you on resources? I can't get away without a dedicated GPU- primary machine and use lots of stuff. My assistant manages with the Dell listed in signature but is less demanding and still learning the program. (FWIW that appears to run on a par with his Mac Book Pro 13") More and bigger monitors, higher resolution use up video resources as do lots of views, tabs etc ..means dedicated GPU. GPU and CPU both use power cost battery life and create heat. My Sager is 2-1/2 y.o. I've been looking around for the near future- will pass this one down and was hoping to save weight since I travel a lot. I"d seen a number of newer "thin/light" gaming machines out there but have read that they get hot and the heat causes them to throttle the resources back. Now those comments are from gamers so I'm not sure if that will happen with what I use the machine for but I don't really want to find out. I know that I keep my fans set to max cooling and they go off quite a bit. I also know I have no problems with loading the C$^$&^@ out of this thing. Apparently Intels Broadwell processors are beginning to make it into the mainstream (they are in some Macs, and some gaming machines) Supposedly a little better with heat and battery (but I keep setting to about 2 mpg) I'm personally waiting for some more of those to surface before I move on a new machine- likely take into then end of the year. A good place to compare a lot of gaming machines is xoticpc.com. No macs but most of what is out there is listed- you have to decide if your a Chevy or a Ford or whatever. Joey-You can run two extra monitors now. I do, a 24"Dell, and a 15" Asus Displaylink monitor same as the laptop -plugs into usb port and uses the CPU instead of the GPU. Once in a while there is a quirk like a shortuct key doesn't work and have to sling it to another monitor, but overall no sweat- been using a smaller Toshiba one for several years now and just upgraded. When the US Open was on I hooked that up too so was running 4 screens total:) I do a lot of meetings at clients and they are a joy -light simple and work.

I checked one I had done before posting. What she is running into is there are no appliances that "insert into a wall cabinet" I stand corrected- found one in the library that does go into a wall cabinet using the DBX- in the cheif core catalog- did not use to be that way- Wonder if OP is on X6 or 5? Attached plan with two solutions. I copied the one I had already- has a free standing micro in it Then just to see I placed a built in onto the floor- said ok when program complained-move it up, opened symbol and changed origin, then moved into the cabinet- using either point to point or transform replicate. I have yet to find another way. micro in wall.zip

Make an opening in the wall cabinet- place the micro freestanding in the plan-move to position in the cabinet.

I need a mix and use Annosets to control different layer/dimension set combinations, some to rock, others to framing. Took time to set up and currently trying to pare them down but worth the effort for me.

Maybe someday we'll be able to toggle doors, drawers and shelves... and maybe even snap to rails and stiles to keep it "live"

Anything like this?? I often send in something like this along with the plans, elevations and schedule to the factory. Special openings, turnings, hoods, angled cabinets. I copy what I have in model to another room or blank wall somewhere (often a garage)- Forgot to mention- I then get rid of all the doors and drawers of the copies.... in a pinch to another plan then shoot sections elevations, then CAD detail from view- finally dimension after that. (not before). I used to use TurboCad (Deluxe) for this stuff but rarely need it since I switched to premier. Once in a while if there are really complicated dimensions. I have an earlier version of Pro and have not use that in a long long time. Deluxe is much less $$. I don't find it very friendly exporting 3D into either to turn into 2D- CA is easier IMO.

I often do what greg does. But if there need to be a lot of changes and I have the actual dimensions of the molding I convert a pdf to png, bring that in, size it, lock the layer. Then start with a pline box. That allows me to set the points to the dimensions then change what need be to curves and angles. I always stack individual moldings on a molding pline and offset there, easier to deal with client changes. So I started to keep a plan file with an assortment of straight molding plines set to different heights. Copy from that into a plan,paste and edit to fit cabinets.

Larry- your method of make parallel is the trick, remember it is also make perpendicluar. Do your corner to corner dim, make parallel but pick the interior line. At least I just did it with a quick line thrown in to a wall. (sorry no vid-flintstone here)

Thanks for the tip.

I've only had to do about 3 of these in the last five years- Pic attached. Depended on the situation what I decided. The hardest was the the one with side access glass- attached one version of that plan for reference. Built entirely from parts- Black and brown was the easiest- 1-1/2 wide cabinet- bookcase in brown, 1-1/2 in cabinet and a valance to join them. Mahogany with angled cabinets had glass shelves so just used psolids side and back to make the white interior- (lot of $$ to display toy soldiers) If you only need the back of the cabinet to be different you can use a wall material region and increase the depth, we already have control of shelves. Not that I'd put terra cotta subway tiles in a cabinet.

I use the offset method. I prefer that cabinet height in the schedule matches what I order so use zero counter thickness in the DBX.

Yeah- folks are surprised that they need outlets on the island for code and then I have to show them what they look like using various solutions, big issue with some (I see crazy people...) As to the plan view, contractors are overjoyed that a KD is even supplying an electric plan and has dealt with switch locations with the client. They could care less that the legs of the symbol are not exactly placed correctly. The outlet will still be placed on the surface no matter how it shows in plan. Mick- I used 4-3/8" which works. same problem Joe mentioned with rotating when pulling from library. Copy in place and reflect doesn't reflect the symbol as it does with others. I just moved the insertion point on the cad block- doesn't solve it but makes it easier to move to the cabinet.

I need the 3D more than the plan view. Scott said: I did 3 last year without em but they say that 75% of American women want an island... 5 want Tahiti, a few will take Manhatten and one from NJ wants Australia...

NIce easy way to fix them once you have them in plan David. But if you add that to the library and go to use it you get the "needs a wall" message. The one I made added to the library and then dragged into plan goes to the floor so you have to reset the height. If I select the existing one Scott has in place and select replace from library it doesn't go to the floor BUT is turned 90 degrees. Once rotated and moved to the face of the cabinet it looks correct in plan and 3D. Not sure which is better- place a bunch of outlets in plan and change to wall mounted- think so. OR place outlets and use replace from library then mess with them or drag from library and move it off the floor...

The one closest to camera. BBB SCOTTS CABINET ELEC OUTLET CHALLENGE 1.zip