DzinEye

Here's the 3 tiles... see if you can use this Creatrix Tile.plan

Yep, this is a good method!...but won't work for off-angle lay unfortunately... unless you have all the same tile and can crop to corners to make a repeating pattern.

I will like to see the truss design for that...

Oh... and try to clip 1/2 of the grout line width in each of the tiles you cut. AND... they'll need to be perfectly square. If those tiles in the photo are not actually perfectly square you're going need to do some fudging in Photoshop.

Well... ya, it sounds like you have a lot to learn about the program yet, which is fine... we all started there, but you're attempting to something on skill level 6 and you're on skill level 1. For creating layers you'll need to read the materials Chief provides here in their website and using the F1 key, and it's something you should definitely know and understand, but actually there's already a layer called Cabinets, Custom Backsplashes which you can use. Build your backsplash on that layer. Here's a video about creating custom tile... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10145/creating-custom-tile-materials.html It's going to show you have to do a repeating pattern, which is not what I'm suggesting for you in this case, but you should understand the principles in it. To make the 3 different tiles you're going to need to use Photoshop or another photo editing software to clip out one of each of those 3 different tiles and make them into 3 separate jpg or png files. Once you've gotten that far, check back in...

If you don't despise the idea of placing each tile like you're actually doing the tile job, then all you need to do is create one tile for each of those 3 different tile patterns and then start copying and placing away. Sure it's a lot of work but you'll love the final look. Be sure to place them on a special layer that you can lock when you're done.

Sorry to say, but ANY modeling software will have the same limitations when it comes to replicating materials. Random patterns are especially difficult.

Okay, then your work is cut out for you. Still...if you can settle for some amount of repeating pattern you can save time by creating a square area of those 3 different tiles... say 6x6 tiles?... and then make that your material it'll repeat that pattern if you paint it onto a larger material region. Otherwise you're stuck placing each tile over the entire surface...

You'd put it in the library as a material and paint it onto a larger surface...but either way via putting it together in Photoshop or via individual tiles in Chief, it seems to me it's the same amount of work. If you can get a sample picture of something like a 3X3 tile square or as big as you can get and don't mind that pattern repeating you'll have a much easier time. Is that pic you attached the biggest sample you can get?

Ahh!...okay sorry about that! Ya, it wasn't quite an assumption because I had first read something about modeling existing conditions... but then on a later visit to your post I noticed comments that the original post was 2015, but those were two separate visits to this post and I hadn't put together it was for a different circumstance. Cheers.

Looks to me like you laid that to rest

Very true...but the plans I've ever seen usually dimension strings start from outside of exterior wall to interior wall centers...and then throw in a plumbing wall and at least to my brain it gets more complicated.

+1 for more layers when needed.... but in all sincerity I have to wonder why it's important to model all these layers in an existing condition? My understanding for having all these layers modeled in a wall definition is really only so that Chief can provide valuable schedule information for material take-offs, but you're not going to need that info for existing walls? Are you proposing building new walls to match? For building sections a few notes should provide the level of information necessary rather than spending the time to input all that layer info?

This seems to be about as good a place as any to ask this question... especially of you builders out there: Do you really want to see a plan dimensioned to wall centers? I've only ever built plans I dimensioned myself, and from my building experience I feel like wall center dimensions would be a PITA... no?

Larry, Sure looked to me like Robert showed the numbers rotated with the schedule the way you asked... but be that as it may, might I suggest that your schedule is more legible in the horizontal direction anyway, so in your layout, make a copy of the layout box your plan and schedule are in, and in the copy crop the window down so you only see the schedule. In the original, crop out the schedule.

Well... it's not a secret that production home builders began using roof trusses for one reason, and one reason only, to save money. Better quality was not part of the equation. Just seeing those press plates with wood splintering out around the connection just 'looks' sloppy no matter how accurately shaped and structurally sound they are. So even though they are a fine product, it's a hard stigma to get rid of. Even so, I've never made any comment to sway any client in favor of stick vs. truss. My structural engineer HAS suggested over the years for a few homes I designed that myself and the owners should consider using trusses and in two of those cases we did. For a production house builder the cost savings of prefab trusses is exponentially higher than for a one-off custom home. Scary to hear all these stories from you guys about structural decisions being made in the field between framer and inspector... or framer alone??? That does not happen here in my area... at least for sure if an inspector is involved. Every single thing needs come back to myself and/or the engineer.

Insert a swinging door and two fixed panel doors and then mull them together

You sure are downplaying the abilities of roof framers?!... I mean, sure there are crappy ones just like in any field, but jeez. I do a lot of cathedral and vaulted ceilings, and I absolutely despise scissor trusses (except exposed timber frame ones)... and my roofs tend to be fairly complex, all making trusses far less cost effective. While I can see it might be nice to have Chief more automatically provide your trusses, I'm not sure I get the full gist of your gripe. Truss companies design their own truss systems based on a roof and ceiling plan, and aren't going to be looking for you to provide them with a truss design. While my experience with trusses is quite limited, I never had any issue sending them plans for a stick built roof and them providing the appropriate truss design.

Another very clever solution. Having watched, I can't help but wonder... if you had first rotated the window in the plan you used to create the symbol, and then instead of turning it into a regular symbol, turned it into a window, would it have worked and still maintained window properties (transparent glass, window label, schedule, etc)?

If the taller areas have cabinets below, then just make your cabinets taller. Otherwise set the height of your counter using it's dbx. Also, you'll need to build a pony wall behind the lower cabinets to create the wall between the two countertop levels if doing something like the area behind the sink in your picture.

Try erasing the two railings that you don't want/like and then dragging the endpoint diamond of the one you like to form the other sides.

Hint: Select roof cuts wall at bottom

Not just Chief...stick-framing is/was always my assumption too... thereby why I was a bit confounded by the OP's request to have the eave soffit flush with the ceiling. Can't really be done very easily. Of course, with an energy heel truss that isn't a problem at all...didn't even think of that until I saw Michael mention 'heel height' in his post. I'm in 'North America' and I think I've done two houses with truss roofs in the last 30 years... it simply doesn't come to mind for me. I do notice that a lot of the regulars here seem to often use trusses, so maybe it is a lot more common than I realize. I only ever played with Chiefs truss features briefly quite a while back, then again briefly recently when Michael posted about how to get the energy heel to frame as expected when it's short. It does seem a bit cumbersome/awkward to use trusses in Chief compared to the automatic stick framing it provides... is that your gripe?

I assume you're asking that rhetorically, since it's an often asked question with no satisfactory answer. Personally, I use the Schedule to Text function on my window schedule, then alter that copy to become a Skylight Schedule. It's pretty fast and easy, and since there's usually only ever a handful of skylights, and several of those are often the same size, so it's really not that big of a deal to me.

Very clever work-around