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Everything posted by DzinEye
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Phantom BS (Back Splash) no politics involved
DzinEye replied to Cheryl_C_Crane's topic in General Q & A
Oh man!?!? What the heck happened? At least you have the file you uploaded here... -
Phantom BS (Back Splash) no politics involved
DzinEye replied to Cheryl_C_Crane's topic in General Q & A
Interesting...Wonder why I didn't have that problem? -
Phantom BS (Back Splash) no politics involved
DzinEye replied to Cheryl_C_Crane's topic in General Q & A
I moved that filler piece back into place. Cushing_Jeremy_&_Andre_Ver_C_fix.plan -
Phantom BS (Back Splash) no politics involved
DzinEye replied to Cheryl_C_Crane's topic in General Q & A
Cabinets, Base -
Phantom BS (Back Splash) no politics involved
DzinEye replied to Cheryl_C_Crane's topic in General Q & A
Also... I just looked between the wall and your bar cabinet and that's where it's from.. -
Phantom BS (Back Splash) no politics involved
DzinEye replied to Cheryl_C_Crane's topic in General Q & A
Maybe I'm not exactly understanding the problem?... but I simply selected it and deleted it with no problem. -
FWIW, This is what I got...
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You got me.. I messed around a bit. Interestingly after toggling boxed eaves on and off and futzing around a bit the z-fighting problem went away on the left side of the roof (main structure)... but it finished the flush eave with the soffit material instead of the wall material. Then undoing and redoing a few steps and the problem came back. Some weird behavior. Sorry.. beyond my ability
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That's for expansion & contraction, just fill with backer rod and silicone. Is the bottom of your truss at the height you want? If so, is your room cln'g ht. set to the proper height? What's that weird little bit of wall in the floor truss area?
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Oh...? I thought I saw that post and it required doing a double wall with an invisible inner wall or something like that. I'll have to have another look.
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Ah yes.. that might do it. Did you try it? True... I just did that recently as a matter of fact.
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Yeah, your suggestion was fine, I saw that it was a p-solid, I was just saying if only we could lower the bottom rail then wouldn't have to create a separate p-solid.
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Flush eave? There's a gable overhang and an eave overhang. It seems it's finishing the end of the soffit that's being talked about? This... ? I guess they do call it a flush eave on the dbx setting, but that just seems odd to me. To me a flush eave means no overhang. Anyway... I've got no problems with it.
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I'm not sure if I'm following which of the many trusses shown is being considered, but this one is downright scary. I'd recommend the tie be 2/3rd the span... which won't get the desired cln'g height. Go with a ridge beam instead if cln'g height is critical. Yep...that's for sure. Rich, if you're building this for someone else, and not going through an engineer or a building department you're taking a big risk... I recommend you be extra conservative.
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Getting an interior wall and an exterior wall to frame as one wall
DzinEye replied to LeRoyWells's topic in General Q & A
In your layout crop your layout box for each framing wall and put both walls side-by-side next to each other so it looks like one. -
You're throwing me for a loop Robert... you're saying 'flush eave', but you're showing an overhang?
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If only we could give the bottom rail a negative value for 'raised from floor'...
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Haven't seen anything quite like that style of lamp, but for something in the same genre you could use the Colonial Lamp under Lighting/Outdoor/Street Lamps and adjust height as needed.
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Isn't that bad luck?
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Funny...I almost always use clicking on the preview image ...it came as 2nd nature to me. I didn't read somewhere that I could, nor ask anyone on the Forum, so I don't think it's that big of a deal, but you do have a point that it would be the only thing that requires interaction with the preview. Remember this is not actually a 'suggestion' yet. Visual interaction is the way most software has gone over the years hasn't it... from typed codes, to prompts to clickable thingys. Visual works most intuitively. Whatever though... use the same interface as the Front/Sides/Back panel. All I'm just suggesting that default and custom hardware manipulation could all be handled in the same panel without brain breaking gymnastics.
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Great to hear that the new style palettes feature has become so valuable in your workflow! There are a lot of cabinet specialty folks on here that could especially benefit from your experience with this feature. I suppose that makes sense for you specializing in certain cabinet lines/types and clients. It's good to hear from you guys who are using it and how you're using it. I'll have to work up to it... it's an upfront time investment that can pay off later, but one needs to see how it'll pay off to feel comfortable with the upfront time allotment.
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Attic wall changes with build roof command
DzinEye replied to rectordesign7's topic in General Q & A
Rectordesign7... lovely garage roof, but just a heads-up in case you're not aware, the shingles at the top of your curved roof will not meet the min. slope requirement for shingles (2:12 min). You'll need to address that with some non-shingled sheet material at the top in a call-out or a detail. -
Hmm... I don't think you're quite following what I'm suggesting?... or... I'm not following yours. My suggestion has nothing to do with the 'face items' dropdown. That is on the Front/Sides/Back panel of the DBX. I'm suggesting that the Doors/Drawers panel, which is clearly laid out for controlling the doors/drawers hardware be able to control not just defaults for the entire cabinet, but also for individual doors and drawers. The Doors/Drawers panel of the DBX has the same 3D view pane as the Front/Sides/Back panel, but currently clicking on that 3D pane in the Doors/Drawers panel switches one over to the Front/Sides/Back DBX panel. I would like to stay in the Doors/Drawers panel when the 3D pane is clicked on, which would then highlight an individual door or drawer and allow modifications to that individual door/drawer using the same Door/Drawers DBX control panel as it is currently laid out. As you suggest, graphics would be greatly beneficial in pursuing this change if I were to do so. At this point now that I've learned it, the benefit of the change is not so much to me, but to the future users of Chief. Robert and I both agreed that once one knows where to look to do the customizing it's not that big of a deal... you just learn it, but I'm a tireless proponent of making software more intuitive. It's crystal clear to me that if the GUI were better, perhaps similar to my suggestion, this would not have come up as a question here in the forum by a long-time Chief user. Now that I've been following the forum regularly, I've seen a number of Chief features/abilities etc., that have eluded even longtime Chief users. That is of course inevitable to some extent, building a complex software like Chief... it's very much like a growing city with all the challenges of infrastructure being tacked onto and patched to keep up with growth. However when I see things even long-time users have missed it usually signals that there is something unclear/non-intuitive to the GUI. The more intuitive the GUI the more popular the software will be because of a far shorter/smoother learning curve.
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Do you have a shallow energy heel on your truss? Depending on your roof slope, if your energy heel is more than about 8" it will stop the bottom cord at the wall. Alaskan_Son just recently posted information about how to do what you're asking in a recent truss-related question here. I would recommend looking for Alaskan_Son's recent posts for his work-around. Here's a link to the post I refer to... you'll need to scroll down a ways
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The shape in your PDF is a lot more organic than the driveway tool will allow, but if you draw the part from the road to the garage, then add the circle to the side it pretty much works with just a tiny glitch.