DzinEye

Whatever! That's pretty cool! Is there a speed setting for that? It does spin a bit too quick. Neat to know the shortcut though. I've been using the fling it with a well timed mouse release to spin...and while I can get it to go a lot slower, it's hard to do. If a speed control is found, please post it.

Doug, I think you missed that Robert was not only questioning, but offering his solution to how to successfully do it, using a 1" invisible wall.

Actually I'm more of a pub person than bar, but yep... they're all closed here too... and worse, the closure was the last straw for one of my favorite local micro-breweries, announced today they're closing for good. Bummer.

Actually, now that I think about it, I'm kind of wondering about that stair detail... It seems a bit sketchy to me to have that stringer completely bearing on just the plywood?

Okay, perhaps not super funny, but the comeback probably would've required you to stretch... Just messin' @!

Clever solution though

If only we were at a bar having a drink... oh the come-backs... lol

Could you not just manually move the platform edge framing back an inch after all is completed?

Not nearly enough information in that PDF. Looks like its showing a few spot elevations and no dimensions at all. It looks like it's just showing (in red) the buildable area of the property allowing for the required setbacks, but unless you could somehow properly scale it there is not enough information. If whoever gave you that PDF cannot provide you with a proper plot map, showing all property line dimensions and angles, with dimensioned setbacks, then you can probably (depending on county) get the proper plot by going to the assessors website for the county the property is located in... assuming you know the property address. You can probably find out the required setbacks by going to the city or county website and looking at their zoning map, then get the setbacks from the online zoning requirements. Again... many cities/counties have this info available online, but not all.

Yep, it works great until you need to adjust the stairs. I had a project with 3 floors and had to detail all the skirt board trim per Steve's vid plus had panels made from molding polylines following the stair slope above that, and had to adjust the stairs 3X during the project... you can imagine my joy

That's what I was showing in my earlier post. For stairs at a landing, If you open the stair dbx and check the clip top function, it shows them clipped. But when you close the dbx, alas, they do not clip:( Ahaa.. didn't catch that you had indicated you used the new clipping option. Well that certainly appears to be a bug. I think that should be reported... along with your request for more cabinet vendors.

I think 'Skirt board' is the correct term for those. How to clip... I have wondered as well. I haven't played with X12 enough, but I thought I saw something new to address that.

What printer are you using? 'Chief Architect Save As PDF' or something else?

Something I've wondered as well...

If you mirror the plan then the elevations taken from it should also be reversed

Great tip, thank you.

Graham, earlier when I first saw this post I recalled a response you posted semi-recently about a different PBR issue and you really went into excellent detail about how to approach setting up the lighting including the sun, etc.. I was short for time and couldn't find it, but you might direct the OP to it, or copy it again to this thread if you know where it is.

You need to zip it

Ha!.. you're one to talk Joe, I think you put in like 10 suggestions this week!

Apparently you need to set up a different style palette for each door type. Not ideal.

I should've spent a minute before commenting... I see that the style palette only allows one interior and one exterior door type. Seems rather limited in scope. I guess that would allow you to change door TYPES with different pallets but not different door panels on each different type.

Hi Steve, I've not played with style palettes yet, but interested in anything interesting you discover and share. My guess would be that you'd need to add each of those different door types to the style palette since they all have their own specification.

Here's my trial and error method... which for a 'picture' of the building is probably close enough. I'm sure there's a mathematical equation or drafting methodology that someone might know, but for me it's trial and error. Per your drawings, first build your main roof at 2:12, then copy-paste-in-place the roof and lock ridge height on this copy and change the pitch of the copy to 12:12. Drag this new roof planes lower edge up so it is just area of the overhang. Now you've got the sloping soffit for the level side of the roof. For the side soffits this is where more challenging trial and error comes in. Again copy-p.i.p. the main roof plane, lock the copy's ridge height and change the pitch to 10:12 or thereabouts (it'll be a lower pitch than the front soffits 12:12 pitch) then rotate and move that copy so that it bisects the main roof as close to the edge of the main roofs eave as you can get it. After you've done that reshape this roof piece so it's only the size of the overhang and then fine tune the pitch so it hits the wall at the same height as the 12:12 soffit. You could get the proper pitch using a cad detail of the front elevation... or again use trial and error.

Good sleuthing Michael. Hey Bob (OP)... can't help but wonder about this framing you're doing. I'm assuming with all this fancy joinery you're planning to have the framing exposed inside the cabin? Out of curiosity what will you be finishing the exterior with?

Use the 'sloped soffit' checkbox in the soffit dbx per the attached pic. However, it appears to me you only need to use roof planes. In the picture you provided the roof and ceiling are the same slope... they may appear that they aren't due to perspective foreshortening.