DavidJPotter

I could find no trusses in your plan but there is roof framing. That is a mistake of improper sequencing: you set all default settings (Edit - Default Settings), then you draw your walls. Then you build roofs and then you build manual trusses. Lastly you then build roof framing-wall framing-ceiling framing if required for your plans. Lots of people just start using the software without any prior study or practice and then they of course get into trouble as you have. You have done well to this point for a new user just first take the time to really find out about how to do this using the software and stop guessing and wasting your time doing so please. DJP

I started with Version 4 back in the dark ages, some habits just do not die even though the software has improved. Some of the old things I used to have to do still work today when all else fails. DJP

You would not want to use a "Floor Camera" set to exclude the floor below. Setting the upper room to open to below is only part of the work, you also have to set the first floor room to "No ceiling above this room" as well. You should also check your first floor materials tab settings for something that might interfere. DJP

You set your Foundation Defaults first. Second Set "Floor Defaults" to the kind of intended foundation you want (check each first floor room dialog to make sure they are set correctly) If for any reason the porch foundation does not build properly (might be the name you used for the Porch, check that each name has different default settings by room name). If all else fails (it should not but if it does) just draw in the missing foundation for the porch. There, I have covered all the possible bases without looking at your plan. DJP

Contact David Gregory in Plano, Texas http://www.gregoryassociates.com (972) 612-2999 Business (214) 543-1706 Mobile david@gregoryassociates.com He will give you a great job and a fair price. DJP

It is inevitable that all concerned see the glass half full or empty due to their own fixed ideas. Using two models for remodeling is how I have always done it since 1994, perhaps I was too stupid to see how "horrible" this was. I was merely happy to stop using an eraser. You all do as you see fit, you always do as I will do also. I know Chief Architect is not "perfect" especially from any given viewpoint but it is pretty darn good and I have no intention to go back to the drawing board, thank you very much! DJP

just upgraded to 364.72, seems fine. DJP

Not my best performance but I got it done finally https://youtu.be/XV--Yn7HU4k DJP POLE SHED (1).plan

I took the time to download your file and video me working on it: https://youtu.be/xuadxDUuWm8 DJP OurHouseV3-1-DJP.plan

I have observed some problems printing to PDF using Chief save as PDF, I have also tried Microsoft save as PDF and I have a downloaded PDF printer called "Cute PDF". When I get unwanted results I just use one of the other two pdf printer applications. I always carefully check all PDF's that I print. Not every time but often enough that I must be very careful in checking the output to PDF. The scale thing is simple, when you print to PDF make sure "Print to Scale" is checked and when you print a PDF make sure ""Print to Scale" is checked in the Adobe Print Dialog as well, if you miss that settings either printing to PDF or printing from a PDF you are screwed, it will "Fit to Sheet" which ruins the scaling. DJP

I find that zooming in makes changing the dimension points easier, the further out you are, the harder it is for hand-eye-computer programming to work easily. DJP

English, after examining your plan, all I see is a plan that is following your orders in terms of the way you have the main layer set on the foundation walls and the default settings of dimensions. To get a cogent answer to that question you will have to speak to Dermot Dempsey, Dan Park or someone like that who knows "why" (they wrote the code for Chief Architect) DJP PS: I know it is sometimes vexing that the software does what it was designed to do and not what you think it should do but part of the process of mastering it is learning that lesson over and over again

I sometimes want to transfer some data or a detail that is resident in one layout to another. I used to copy paste to a CAD detail window (plan file) then then send to a new layout but a direct way to copy-paste from one layout to another could sometimes be useful. DJP

Don't do that again. Go outside and kick a tree or fireplug, instant Karma is always lurking for the unwary. DJP

Here is a You Tube video of me placing an addition and roof over your garage: https://youtu.be/9QyF2oWeJxs DJP

The Ray Trace Engine has an "Edit Section" that is separate from the general render settings. Really study those settings and experiment with their various settings to get exactly the effect you want. Attached are some PDF notes by one of our most talented render Artists, read and practice with those and get better results. DJP Raytrace Settings-Forum Notes.pdf

I do not specialize in "why" but I do specialize in "how do you fix it". Walls are defined by "Wall Poly-Lines" as shown in your posted image. Why they go where they go is better addressed to Chief Architect Inc Software Engineers. But they do have "Edit Handles" when selected which means that you can edit them or redraw them. Explaining why they do what they do I will leave to the persons who wrote the code that defines their behavior. I work with them and appreciate the mostly positive things that they do. Most of the time, working with them I can get a positive result and that is good enough for me. DJP

I would like be able to duplicate the Joe and Perry method of plan notes. I watched Perry's video twice but he did not show exactly how to set everything up from a-Z. Will you guys help an old guy out? DJP

The correct procedure is to open "Chief Architect X8 Data - Templates - profile.plan (for imperial units) or profilem.plan (metric units)" and make your font changes via Default Settings and the various categories extant in the annotation sets. Once you get it exactly the way you want then you save-as over the existing profile.plan with your customized one and when you then order "New Plan" a copy of your customized profile.plan will then present itself. The same is true for the layout templates in that you can customize those templates to fit your needs and then select the size you need and it will be there if you create it and then select it. DJP

You have several choices to solution: 1. Make the exterior wall into a "pony Wall" which splits the outer wall into two wall types that each have adjustable wall poly-lines. 2. for an accent strip you can use the "Wall Covering" tool found in the Wall Specification Dialog to place interior or exterior materials strips 3. You can use a shaped soffit to emulate material appliques inside or out 4. You can use molding profiles to create custom Architectural appliques as well. 5. You can use the relatively new "Materials Region" tool to create applicaques. What EXACTLY do you want to do where? DJP

This is certainly unwanted and unacceptable, were I you I would get on the phone to Chief Architect Tech Support and see if they can be of help to you. Generally X8 is a little slower than earlier versions but not by much at least in my experience having used it on my desktop and laptop for almost a year. But in exchange for the slowness you get a fine array of new tools and function I find irreplacable. DJP

Here is a You Tube video of me working on your plan file and the edited plan file is attached as well: https://youtu.be/H_LBFhxjjrY DJP 1st draft.plan

Read Glenn's post again but this time carefully. Do what he suggests and all will be well, convert or reprogram the walls do not try to delete them DJP

This video should directly address your question: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwjE7qu22yo DJP

No plan attached = no answers or help forthcoming. DJP