robdyck

For anyone else stumbling upon this, I thought I'd post a link to the last time I recall this topic being discussed.

In exactly what type of view are you adding lines, details and notes?

This doesn't clearly explain what type of view you sent to layout, the type of you view that you detailed, or how (if) you sent the views to layout. When a section or elevation view is sent to layout, it is automatically saved, no action required. It would appear in the project browser.

It uses THE ZERO POINT!! These offsets are very simple to figure out and even simpler if you always start your projects on zero for the x and y coordinates then build up and to the right, with the goal of keeping the project on the positive side of the x and y coordinates. I use the material offsets specifically for the hatch pattern regularly, just like you described, but for ICF foundations. You'll notice in section/elevation views that the x offset will shift the pattern horizontally, and the y offset will shift the pattern vertically. The simplest way to adjust the vertical offset of a foundation block material is to use a negative offset that equals the TOP OF FOOTING elevation.

Remember to factor in the slab thickness when specifying room heights! Stairs will still automatically work correctly.

It will do this automatically if the concrete slab is the floor finish, not the floor structure. Use gravel for the floor structure.

Not plannedrite at all. plannedRONG in fact!

you'll need a different wall type for that area, possibly a pony wall, and because of the elevation of the butting roof, you'd need to manually adjust the wall polyline. You can use a material region that cuts the finish layers. Set this to material to be 1/2" plywood (or whatever material you need) the gable wall can be set to have a different wall type where it is cut by the roof, essentially an automatic pony wall. Wall Spec. dbx, roof tab. The material region is my preference. I'd be setting it as a single layer, 1/2" thick, material...housewrap.

Simply change the color of your drywall material. Example: My typical drywall color is very neutral, but my client wants the interior walls painted a different color, specifically Benjamin Moore AF-10 - Gardenia. With the Library Browser open (off to the side), search and find that color. Then using the Adjust Material Definition tool, select your drywall material, and then use the color eyedropper to grab the color from your library browser. See the video below for an example. whole house painting.mp4

2 simple ways to handle this: 1. In the wall spec. dbx, change the material for that layer. 2. 3d, materials, plan materials, select the existing siding materials and Replace with a different material. This is a WHOLE house approach, not portions!

For Interior Walls: changing the material of a wall layer (say drywall for example) will indeed have a global effect unless the wall exterior or interior layer is not using this default. Typically the material for an interior wall can be changed a few ways: You can change the material of the walls on a room-by-room basis through the room dialog box You can change the material of the walls by painting a style pallette to a room. You can paint individual portions of a wall within a room by using the Material Painter. Based on my own experience, I would not recommend adding layers simply to get color on a wall. I feel the cons outweigh the pros. I have my drywall layer spec'd as a simple neutral color, and if I need to change the paint colors, I would do so using method #1 from above. If I needed to 'paint' 1 wall, I'd use method #3. These methods are shown in the image below. Note that a style pallete will paint more than just the walls, unless you adjust the settings accordingly, which would be needless bloat to your library. Note that the wall with 2 blue paint colors still shows the default material in the wall dialog box after being painted.

Just needs a spoon latch on the bottom frame

@DzinEye You assumed correctly! You know me, I'd use another window! Inner window reduced in size and height by the thickness of the frame, outer window a pass-through.

Why? Care to elaborate? I'm not smart enough to just know what you're referring to! My thinking is that one of the paint colors has to meet somewhere, right? So what's wrong with the edge line where the underside meets the 'exterior'?

Would it be safe to assume your profile pic was set about 1 minute after Tippet announced that Smith would be the starter for game 1 against the Blackhawks?

Material regions on the floor isn't the most practical solution, especially if you need a flooring transition at the doorway. It's really much simpler: Make the doorway full height of the combined opening. off to the side, place and size your window. Turn off window casing. Select window, and center on the doorway. Fortunately, a doorway's measurement are INSIDE the jamb, while a window's measurements are OUTSIDE of the frame, so no math required! Last step: Don't try to mull them (it won't work anyhow)!

Those aren't rounded, so it'd be really tough to make rounded shelves just like those! Or really easy?? Scratch head now.

And just before you make the little deck room that Michael suggests, take note of the top elevation of the landing. Use that to set the floor height of your deck landing.

I'd make the doorway full size with the window set within the doorway; no casing to the window. You can also use 3 object in the same place: a doorway that's the full size (this will have the casing and trim) and the mulled unit, sans trim.

Even easier, don't mull them!

Best to post the plan, but you could try adding 1/2" (or more) to the rough opening on the bottom (Framing Tab)

@Designer100 Plan is attached. You can take a look to see what I changed, and the simplest way to get those changes into your plan would be to delete the 2 ramps, landing and slab, then copy the same items from this plan and ctrl-alt-v in your plan. Clear as mud, right?! Moheb Building New RD.zip

You need to update your profile pic! I take it you have your coffin selected!? I'm taking a look at your plan file now...

My only other suggestion would be to zip each file and try uploading a zipped file as opposed to the pdf file. The person on the other end would have to extract them of course, but the issue may be in the transfer process. Of course, I'd try that with a single file to see if it works.