robdyck

It doesn't get much quicker or easier than making your own double top rail using a 2x4 and 2x6 profile with a 3.5" gap. Add to library as a stacked molding. One drawback to get it exactly like the picture is the intermediate 4x4 posts won't build like the image. I'd add those manually.

This is it! Just keep in mind that if you're using the same material for multiple rooms, you'd need to make multiple copies of the same material so that you can control the offset for each room's tile. Otherwise, the offset applied to one will be global (throughout the entire plan). And, it'd be helpful to make sure the material's texture and pattern are synced before making those offsets and subsequent copies. Forgot to add one item...this works with an Orthographic Floor Overview. That way the material's pattern is represented in the Vector View technique. You can use this view as needed or you can generate a CAD detail from this view.

I just figured it out. It appears as though the polyline label needs to consist of only one macro. This macro is the basis for other macros, and they can be placed in a text table to display accurately and remain stable.

I have several macros that calculate the area of a polyline and convert from sq ft to sq meters. I have an issue where all the different polylines are using different macros but returning the same value of whichever polyline was opened most recently. Any tips from macro users? Is more info needed to provide advice? I can send more info by a PM.

Too funny, Love it!

It helps keep the file size down. In the image below everything you see except the road and the vehicles are 3 symbols from 3 separate plans placed adjacent to each other. This would have made for a huge file size and a very slow pan file except that there is literally nothing inside each model.

It also didn't work for me consistently in X11, but does work consistently since X12.

You could also use a polyline mask to cover the interior walls. For a single plan, it may prove to be faster than placing all interior walls on their own layer. Placing interior walls on their own layer can be worthwhile especially if this is done in a template plan.

They certainly do do something, you just can't change the default. What you can do is control the line weights for each applicable layout box. It can be a very fast way to have all your edge lines a single darker line style and all the pattern lines a lighter style.

Can you post the plan?

Find your desired rafter tail from the library. Right click, place molding profile. Close polyline, convert to polyline solid.

I hear what you're saying, and while I don't necessarily disagree, my opinion (for now) is that p-solids are so much faster than jumping through the multiple clicks of a dialog box. My favorite thing about a p-solid, is that in an elevation view, it will blend with the exterior finish layer and erase unwanted lines. of course, it does need to join accurately.

I would say, no, there isn't. P solids are the fastest, simplest, most stable way to handle this. I have the same condition all the time, and there are other ways, but they suck.

I just your video for Eric...I also get all caps when copying and pasting. No question here, I'm going to search a bit and see if I can find out why. EDIT: And there it is...in your edited post way up near the beginning. That was what I suspected.

it does.

Yes.

You mean 300 MB, right? Without seeing the plan, I can give you a few suggestions. Purge Cad blocks, and purge materials.

That's what I said...they will rebuild. You can delete the surfaces, then capture images. They will rebuild. More info. would be helpful Gene. I'm not aware of any layer settings that will turn off the upper wall layers and leave the lower wall.

There is no control for this. If you're creating an image, you can use the delete surface tool to remove the layers of the upper pony wall. It's not fun, and it will rebuild. The very best option I can think of would be to make a copy of the plan file (just for the purpose of this view only) and change the pony wall's upper wall definition so all materials are using the invisible material.

No.

You'll never win trying to get flush eaves to work correctly. It seems that the problem boxed eave in the back of the house doesn't work because there is a roof plane below it. No logic to that, that's just what I've noticed in my own experience. I must admit, I've taken a plan that I wanted to use flush eaves, and after crying and swearing, I just designed it with boxed eaves all around. The answer to consistent flush eaves is that you'll need to uncheck boxed eaves and make all the parts manually.

@MarkMc, what are your thoughts about placing items, like built-in ovens as stand-alone items, instead of inserting them into a cabinet? This is my preferred method, although I draw home plans, not kitchen plans. I prefer to keep the fixture or appliance on its own layer, as well as to have control over its label. I also prefer to see a cabinet with an opening instead of with an oven...because the cabinet doesn't actually come with an oven, does it?!

It's also fairly quick and simple to take a CAD section of an actual steel beam, make it into a solid, convert to a symbol and add it to a framing schedule, or any other type of schedule. Every time you do this, make a copy, say 8' long, and add it to your library for future use.

It's also odd that you don't have double joists around the perimeter of your stairwell.